engine test stand

does anybody have prints for a test stand ? seen then on someones post but cant find them now.

 

It depends how fancy you want to get. i've run engines on these with success:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performa.../10002/-1?parentProductId=2383067#moreDetails

Then use a pallet and shelf brackets to support radiator.

Real cheap.

 

Hmm, your bio states "lead engineer". Must be Chemical or Electrical Engineer. Just get the engine, block alone is best, then start measuring, cutting and welding. Actually, easy stuff. Plans are not really required. Just do it. (smiling)

 

Race shop I uses to work next to, same warehouse, had one that was two engine mounts and an iffy support for the rear flange. Had a panel with temp and pressure gauges. They had a generator deally hooked up to measure power. Built serious road race cars using that platform to tune headers and such. Vroom vroom!

 

I got plans from this fella. I have not built my stand yet but found the plans to be complete and well worth the price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Start-Test-Stand-Plans-Ford-GM-Mopar-/230754305983?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222001%26algo%3DSIC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D6406168176608991482%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D230590301574%26

 

build your own,just finished mine.built it for a friend who builds engines for a living,thats my new motor on the stand first one to get the honors.couple of hours during the week and WA-LA...

 

Damn, now you are going to make me want to build one of those. Great job, looks professionally built. Smart idea using the adjustable engine stand bracket on the bellhousing area so you can run various brands of engines.

Don

 

Here is mine.

Made from a discarded Coca-Cola gas station mobil display. A couple of pteces of 11ga. square tube for top rails.

The engines set in the mount.(Rear plate not shown). The mount/plate serve as an engine stand, can be placed on the floor. Then the engine/mount assembly is hoisted onto the main frame and secured with a couple of pins.
A radiator that I got in an auto parts buyout. is adjustable for and aft and will slide off the front for complete aaccess to front of engine.Fan is $5.00 swap meet. Instument panel is an old front license plate holder. Guages/switches are old stuff I had over from the swap meet trails. Electric fuel pump is a used swap meet $10.00 item.
Also has a trickle charger for constant battery charge.

Engine sets fairly high cause this old man has had three crushed vertabrae and don't bend over well..

Lets see if the pics will load

 

I ordered those plans as well. Really nice plans.

 

you just got to make sure you use an engine stand with wide lugs on the back to clear the flywheel.my engine guy builds mostly race car motors,explains msd box.big coil,electic fuel/water pump.he said this would save some time having to break in a motor at his shop out of the car that way when you pick it up its ready to go!!!

 

My understanding is also to have load on the engine on break in to provent cyclinder glazing. True or not that is my understanding.

 

Not true. Proper honing will stop any glaze problem.

 

Check out www.homemadetools.net, there are a bunch of engine test stands featured.

.................Jack

 

always meant to build one---they are great for checking condition of used engines...

 

like BOBCRMAN said it shouldent glaze if honed properly, but on a brand new fresh rebuild you shoulden't run it for too long without load as sometimes the compression rings wont bed properly

 

That's a slick setup T-Buckethead. It makes me wish I would have bought that HF engine stand I saw at the swap meet for 20.00 Saturday.

As far as the comment about the rings not seating if there wasn't a load on the engine I don't think that would ever be an issue as most guy would not run an engine long enough on the stand to have to worry about it. Usually when you run one on a test stand you are wanting to get it tuned just right without climbing over the car to do it and you are checking for oil and coolant leaks. Then when it's all dialed in and there are no leaks you stick it in the chassis and go out and go through your break in procedure if you have one.

 

yeah thats true i agree, just thought id mention it cos i rebuild a y block and made a stand and everything for it, my roadster isnt ready yet but i thought id get the motor dialed in like you mentioned, it ran real sweet so i ran it a few times for about 20 minutes a time, then a few more times just cos it was so much fun then noticed a bit of blow by once i shut it down, i wasent doing my compression rings any good, so im not gonna start it anymore until im ready to break it in.

 

Picked this up the other day. Will make a good one.

 

this young man
got er done
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGClulA96K8

 

i do not recommend the engine stand
it has been done
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OK_j4HLv00


and this guy likes his on the floor...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nj16P5UvA2Q

 

I dont get the "load on the engine" to break it in.
What if a guy put a new flat tappet cam & lifters in his engine,in his car,with a stick shift?
How would you "load" it for 10-15 minutes in the driveway while checking for leaks & stuff?
Same thing with an auto trans....what would you do there? Power brake it in the driveway for 10-15 minutes & burn the trans down?

Myth

 

A tricycle stand no less. And that's what they teach at school? No wonder comments were disabled.

 

I can easily build one like that. What's the width below the motor?

 

my mistake was i ran my engine for a total time of well over an hour probly from a complete rebuild, and i did start getting blow by because compression rings do need load to bed in, i hear ya and don't disagree, 15, 20, 30 mins would be fine i didnt start getting blow by for the first probably 40-50 mins of run time. im no expert just sharing my experience

 

heres a link to a video of my test stand, not sure if the link will work or not, it doesent show the stand in detail but its just 2x2 box section with wheels and some angled 2x2 for mounts and a small stainless panel for gauges and start switch

file:///Users/danielganley/Downloads/video.php.html

 

My engine test stand is built with 2x2 tubing. The front mount cradle can be moved to different locations depending on the engine. I built the stand to be mounted on a small trailer to allow me to test run engines for friends without them having to bring it to me. When not mounted on the trailer it rests on a cradle with casters.









The trailer doubles as a motorcycle trailer when the stand is off loaded.



Sorry, no photos of the test stand finished.

 

I think I had posted this one I built on a previous thread.Just modified an Harbor freight engine stand.Works very well for both purposes.

 

Made mine from some old square tubing and some angle. Put some wheels to roll it around and added a top panel for gauges and key start. Bought a lawnmower throttle to use as the gasser while on the stand.

 

Here's mine. Copied a couple different stands.

BigMike