The NAPA Echlin number is ST6,there is another that is slightly shorter version on the stem length as well.
I've got one in my '66 truck..had some problems about 10 years ago & just decided to bypass the whole mess with a starter button. I shoulda gotten the chrome one, but I wimped out with the cheaper rubber one. The only problem is that you have to give everyone involved instructions on how to start the truck when they borrow it...there's three mysterious steps. So, that gave me an idea when I built the hot rod, only there's no key & it's a pull start..and you push it in to stop the engine. Of course, there's a hidden kill switch, in case someone is fool enough to try to steal it. Some fun, eh? Go for it!
well,,,,thanks everyone,,,,i didn't think this thread would get this much response,,,but hey,,,,,,awesome knowledge,and experience........can't wait to throw my bridgestone football and see if it does curves...!!!!>.. givin that,,,,i'm not the "traditionalist" .....as well the truck i bought was already hacked.....mustang two front end, ford nine inch ,,,hidden battery, etc....blah blah blah,,,,but i got it at a great price,,,and i want to go further. being an artist and airbrusher.,,,,,,most everyone expects more from me than just to put together your typical "rat rod",,,,,,hey, i'm not gettin down on anyone, i enjoy a rusty fender or two,,,,but it is waaaayyyyy,,,harder to finish a custom without scratches , and trying to do the abnormal, or "typical" on the original, and that's the plan for me......... you guys are the best,,,,just being on here for a short time,,,,i've come to realize,,,,there are alot of heartfelt custom guys , who are infinitly knowledgable and skilled.....and i feel honored to be able to converse with any of them.... thanks again........
MR48CHEVY is correct on the wiring, however personally when I wired my F-3 I ran the power for the push button thru the key on circuit. The intent being a sort of neutral safety switch, so if the truck is left in gear and someone accidentally pushes it, nothing will happen. That and so I don't look like a fool by forgetting to switch the key on when hitting the starter button
In the roadster i just use a momentary contact flip switch. Aircraft surplus. Seen them at electrical hobby stores. But all the other posts seem like good ways too.
The project I'm working on now has a mechanical diesel for power. Pull cable to enable fuel flow, push to kill fuel flow. I plan to have two switches in series to energize the starter, one foot operated and one hand operated. probably use a pair of toggles for accessory and run power. pity the poor bastard that tries to steal it. only person besides myself that will know the start procedure will be my wife. I don't have friends! LOL
So where's the problem? If they can't start it then they can't borrow it ya need one of those bumper stickers that says, Yes! It's my truck and NO you can't borrow it!
I have a question I'm using the start/ ignition button from a airplane ( 50's jet to be precise) but it is push to break, anyone know which relay/ how to wire ?
I figured some would chime in about using a relay to activate a button that essentially activates a big relay. It's good that the HAMB exists to relay this info to us. You wouldn't want to have to re-lay under the dash panel to re-wire if you didn't get the info relayed to you. Let me relay this info. The starter button on a Packard isn't running through a relay, it simply activates the relay on the starter already. Imagine that, an old starter button in use since 1934 w/out a relay and still going strong. Not just 1, more than 2 dozen in my experience around those cars. 41-47 Caddy, samey-samey, no relay. How did they ever survive...
As many have found out, switches these days aren't what they used to be. If the push button you use for the starter fails open, you won't be able to start the vehicle which is a minor inconvenience. If it fails closed, it could cause serious damage to the starter and flywheel. It's worth spending a little extra to buy a good switch. There are also momentary contact toggle switches if you want something different.
The stock starter switch on my Morris has that sort of look. It sits on the firewall, though, and is a pull-switch with a long pull-rod to a knob on the dash. It is wired always-on, so one can spin the starter without the ignition being on. That feature used to come in quite handy, as it prevented my from driving off unless I was sober enough to remember about the ignition.
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