Register now to get rid of these ads!

Engine pre oiler

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jim Stabe, Apr 20, 2013.

  1. Jim Stabe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2008
    Posts: 179

    Jim Stabe
    Member

    I need to use a pressure type pre lube system to make sure all parts are lubricated prior to starting my engine that has been sitting for several years since being rebuilt. This type of oiler is necessary because the LT1 Chevy engine does not have a conventional distributor that can be removed and a drill powered pre oiler used.

    I had to get my MIG gas bottle refilled this week and while I was there I asked the guys in back if they had any small gas bottles that they could not refill but that would still hold 100 psi. He came up with a small oxygen bottle that he said I could have. I cut a 2" hole in the bottom with a hole saw and welded in half of a 2" pipe coupler. The 2" plug was drilled and tapped with a 1/4" npt thread and I attached an air fitting with a 90* elbow. The small end already had a 3/4" npt thread where the valve used to be. The 1" aluminum block is drilled and tapped for a 3/4"-16 (fine thread) which is the same thread as a PH16 oil filter has. I drilled a 5/16" hole through the axis of the bolt and turned the smooth shank end down and cut a 3/8" npt male thread on it so I could attach the ball valve. The tank attaches to the top of the block with a 3/8" pipe nipple and 2 reducer bushings. A passage is drilled down to intersect with another hole drilled into the area inside the I.D. of the filter gasket. The pressurized oil will go into the outside of the filter, through the filter media, out through the hole in the bolt and then to the engine. I wanted to use a filter in case any dirt was left inside the tank although I cleaned it really well. The only two things I had to buy were the 2" pipe plug and the oil filter - less than $10. I had everything else laying around.

    Engine primer 001.jpg

    Engine primer 002.jpg

    The way it will work is a hose will be connected from the ball valve to the port where the oil pressure sender screws into the block. with the ball valve closed I can fill the tank with 2-3 quarts of oil and then screw the 2" plug in place to make it airtight. I will then attach shop air to the fitting (regulated to 50-60 psi) and then open the ball valve. The oil will fill all the galleries in the engine and pre lube all the parts.
     
  2. dirty old man
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 8,844

    dirty old man
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That's a good idea and with the proper fittings it'll work on a lot more engines than just that LT1.
     
  3. 296 V8
    Joined: Sep 17, 2003
    Posts: 4,666

    296 V8
    BANNED
    from Nor~Cal

    For a one time deal wouldn’t just spinning it over with the spark plugs out tell oil pressers up suffice?
     
  4. Pretty cool piece. One thing that jumped out at me would be to add some supports from the base to the the tank. You'd have one HELL of a mess on your hands if that bottom fitting ever got broken off...
     

  5. supervert
    Joined: Mar 8, 2009
    Posts: 433

    supervert
    Member

  6. side_valve
    Joined: Sep 22, 2002
    Posts: 833

    side_valve
    Alliance Vendor

    A plastic weed sprayer from the hardware store works well.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.