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Engine Parts long term storage.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Marcosmadness, Jul 26, 2013.

  1. Marcosmadness
    Joined: Dec 19, 2010
    Posts: 367

    from California

    How do you protect precision parts with machined surfaces for extended periods (longer than a year) from rust. Presently I have 3 bare engine blocks (stripped), a number of cams, 4 cranks, a number of ring and pinions, and a number of heads I need to store until I need them. Obviously I want to protect the crank journals, the camshaft lobes, and all the other precision ground surfaces from any rust. What have the HAMBer's found effective to prevent rust in this type of situation. I need a solution that really works and hopefully doesn't require constant attention. The Military apparently used cosmoline for this purpose. Can you still buy cosmoline (where) or is there a better solution to this problem. Once the parts are coated do you wrap them in plastic, put them in boxes or ??? What works?
  2. oldnuts
    Joined: Jan 14, 2009
    Posts: 355

    from nebraska

    Thick coats of wd40?
  3. Skeezix
    Joined: Jan 10, 2007
    Posts: 845

    from SoCal

  4. Giovanni
    Joined: Jan 21, 2010
    Posts: 173


    Don't wrap anything in plastic, it will hold moisture against the parts. My hammer and dolly set is in a breathable canvas bag. I wiped down all the metal with an oily rag and left the rag draped over the top. They haven't rusted yet, and they are in a very humid garage. Maybe buy some cheap sheets to drape over your blocks and put some gear oil in a garden sprayer? Just avoid wrapping them air tight with plastic

  5. Relic Stew
    Joined: Apr 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,142

    Relic Stew
    from Wisconsin

    WD is mostly kerosene, it's not going to get thick.

    Cosmoline is the standard for long term protection.
  6. Marcosmadness
    Joined: Dec 19, 2010
    Posts: 367

    from California

    Skeezix... I assume you are suggesting the McMaster Carr product...
    Petroleum Jelly
    Nondrying and nonhardening, these lubricants won't dissolve in water. Use them to coat and protect your metal surfaces. Technical Grade—Meets military specification VV-P-236. Color is amber.
    When I looked up the Mil spec VV-P-236 it refers to this as a lubricant so it might protect metal in the same way as a coat of motor oil. Other Mil Spec's specifically refer to corrosion prevention so I don't think this is the product to use.

    Relic Stew.... good lead. I didn't know that Cosmoline was still made and if so, by whom. However, Cosmoline seems expensive at $50 a quart plus shipping.

    Are there any other suggestions? Surely I am not the only one who stores spare parts and is concerned about rust. What do the Rod shop owners use?
  7. gary terhaar
    Joined: Jul 23, 2007
    Posts: 656

    gary terhaar
    from oakdale ny

    Bees wax ? We use it to protect machining tools,have seen stuff done in the 70 s and still looks like new when you peel it off.
    Melt it in a pot and pour it on.
  8. I buy this at WT Tool South.. I used it for the entire 8 yrs on my build .Kept everything I used it on rust-free . My shop tends to be humid...Be sure to wipe the surfaces with lacquer thinner to remove any fingerprint oils,etc.. then spray...

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  9. Cosmoline is a good product used for long temp storage,basically it's part of the residuals of distilled petroleum,,think the old product in the medicine cabinet,,Vaseline,it just has more paraffin mixed in.

    So Vaseline would probably do just fine for storage. HRP

  10. LPS-3 corrosion inhibitor works great. I'm not sure where to buy it, as I get mine from work.
    6-bangertim likes this.
  11. Pedal Power
    Joined: May 29, 2009
    Posts: 11

    Pedal Power

    Semi van trailers have been an excellent storage place over the years ,they stay real dry

  12. vega1
    Joined: Feb 15, 2012
    Posts: 193


    The first thing is no moisture to begin get them dry before you put anything on them to protect them. Do not use wd40 for rust protection use cosmolene or grease you can wrap them up one they are completely dry have done it this way

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
  13. Passatisfaction
    Joined: Oct 27, 2018
    Posts: 1


    20 years ago when I was buying anything from my local old parts store they sold the parts soaked in instrumental/tool oil and wrapped in unbleached wax paper. They don't use acidic process for the unbleached paper. Which can cause damage on your engine or at least it could leave a nasty mark on your newly machined toys. It is water repellent because of the wax. Yet more breathable than cling film. The instrumental oil is what you use for sewing machines for example. It's one of the purest. It has the least detergents, additives, etc. which can leave a residue by storage time.
    I trust the knowledge of those old sports. They knew everything better than nowadays wannabes.
  14. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 4,822

    from Ioway

    High humidity will sure do a number, all it takes is a temperature swing overnight. Heavy parts hold the cold, if the humid air hits that in the daytime condensation forms like a cold can of beer.
  15. Dan Timberlake
    Joined: Apr 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,327

    Dan Timberlake

    LPS 3 is mighty impressive.

    Pricey in the $15 spray cans (over a buck an ounce).
    Buy a $75 gallon ( $0.6/ounce +/- ) and a $4 hand sprayer or revive the old sure-shot sprayer or even a garden sprayer.
    A ($160) 12 pack case of prefilled 20 ounce sprayers can end up $0.66/ounce.

    Some of these tests are interesting. Like penetrating 1.5 inches into faying surfaces.
  16. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 5,442

    from Oregon

    Just grab a tube of wheel bearing grease or motor oil. Wrap in some burlap bags.

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