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Customs Engine paint

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kustomline54, Feb 28, 2020.

  1. Kustomline54
    Joined: Aug 15, 2009
    Posts: 449

    Kustomline54
    Member

    Hey guys! Im getting ready to paint my engine soon & had a question. I've searched the web but wanted to see here.
    I've read a lot people painted their engines w/ all sorts of different things, namely rattle cans like rustoleum, krylon etc. for unique colors & saying "it holds up great".

    I want to match the engine color with the car & ordered this from an auto paint supplier where they take the car color code & put it in a spray can.

    Do I need high temp primer before the factory color basecoat goes on or would regular auto primer (pictured) I got with the paint be ok?...

    I've read people use epoxy or self etch primer, but wanted feedback. Figured if rustoleum have good results this should be fine, but you never know!
    20200227_213110.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2020
  2. Flathead Dave
    Joined: Mar 21, 2014
    Posts: 2,911

    Flathead Dave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from So. Cal.

    Never thought about it. My self and friends have always shot the high temp paint directly to the block with no primer. Never had it peel or cook off or chip.
     
    clem likes this.
  3. AMC360
    Joined: Jul 24, 2007
    Posts: 76

    AMC360
    Member
    from Canada

    You can use regular body paint on an engine. Just make sure block is clean and then primer it first with a good primer then paint what ever colour you want. I painted a flathead copper gold like this.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  4. I used Duplicolor engine paint on my 355 4 years ago and its still on there, no primer. Just make sure the surfaces are squeaky clean. I used a degreaser, then hot soapy water and a stiff nylon brush.
     
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  5. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 1,508

    oldiron 440
    Member

    Epoxy first then color.
     
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  6. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,392

    squirrel
    Member

    I've done fine with normal acrylic enamel (single stage paint) over bare cast iron, no primer.

    When the paint chips or discolors, I think it looks more natural on an engine if you don't see primer where the paint defect is.

    I don't know about the basecoat thing, though....that looks iffy.
     
  7. onetrickpony
    Joined: Sep 21, 2010
    Posts: 436

    onetrickpony
    Member
    from Texas

    I have never had any luck putting anything over Rust-Oleum primer except more Rust-Oleum.

    That said, I never use primer on an engine block when using engine paint or catalyzed acrylic enamel.
     
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  8. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 662

    PhilA
    Member

    20190928_190332.jpg
    I painted my 8 and the gearbox (both cast iron) after scrubbing both throughly with carburetor cleaner and a wire brush.
    The paint is just regular off the shelf stuff from Walmart, picked for color and finish. I let it set cold for a couple days before running the engine. So far it's held up really well, any oil or other black gunk cleans off with dish soap. Remember the only caveat is you can't use solvent cleaners else the paint will all wash off.
    This is a modest budget option for sure; if you want to pop the hood for the clipboards to inspect then something oil based would be better.

    Phil
     
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  9. I always use Seymour engine paint. Comes in all engine colors needs no primer. Go’s on nice with light coats no runs. Finish with a wet coat. Just be sure to clean well with a good cleaner/ degreaser. I use Prep-sol and wire bush. I buy the paint and cleaner at a local parts house called Levine,s in Connecticut.


    Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
     
  10. I did all that and then let the engine sit long enough that it started turning orange. What would work to clean that off?
     
  11. I am not a color match guy as a rule. I like the idea though.

    I painted the Timex 355 with Dulplicolor rattle can off the shelf in the hardware store. My block was hot tanked still had some paint sticking to it, I hit it hard with a scrub brush to knock the loose paint off, then primer (same brand) and paint. That was in 1997, its been power washed a time or two and in several different cars and its still painted.
     
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  12. Wire brush and wipe it down with prep sol an hour before painting!
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  13. Thanks very much for the information. I guess 5 weeks was too long.
     
  14. GordonC
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 2,009

    GordonC
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Can't speak to the question about the primer but have used that companies paint before and they have a good product.
     
  15. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 5,927

    anthony myrick
    Member

    Fresh rebuild or cleaning up an old engine?
     
  16. Kustomline54
    Joined: Aug 15, 2009
    Posts: 449

    Kustomline54
    Member

    Freshening up the engine. Took the heads/intake off already had them hot tanked & decked. I've scrubbed the brushed the block thoroughly. Top of pistons cleaned etc...
     
  17. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 5,927

    anthony myrick
    Member

    Reason for the question was a fresh build has higher than normal cyl head temps.
    And it’s probably gonna cook any paint you use on the exhaust side.
     
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  18. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,530

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    I've used rattle can, single stage and base/clear with flake.
    If I get failure its around the exhaust ports, But thats minimal.

    CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. I even cleaned my motor with easy off oven cleaner and a wire brush once. Clean it until you think its clean, then do it 3 more times. Ive used primer, etch primer and once just shot a base of BBQ paint then rattle canned over it.

    Far from rocket surgery.
     
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  19. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 5,781

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    Just about any kind of paint will hold up, except lacquer. Catalyzed is always better, but even uncatalyzed acrylic enamel looks good, and holds up. I've used Imron, Centari, BC/CC, Single stage urethane, even HOK Candy and pearls on engines.
     
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  20. Boden
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 717

    Boden

    Car paint. Just get some paint that’s the same as ur car and spray it onto the block. When we get those motors into work that paint doesn’t come off no matter what. The way to go


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  21. luckythirteenagogo
    Joined: Dec 28, 2012
    Posts: 1,255

    luckythirteenagogo
    Member

    I've never had a problem when I used weld through primer. That stuff likes high temps. I've had it flake off when I haven't though.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  22. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 377

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    Metal prep
     
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  23. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 377

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    Quality metal prep's will dissolve the surface rust and degrease the surface. When you use a metal prep that requires a water rinse you can sit and watch it re-rust. Use denatured alcohol instead. My prep does not require a water rinse and will leave a zinc phosphate film on the surface so it can sit for months in doors without it re-rusting
     
    Kustomline54 likes this.

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