I have never had any luck getting rattle can paint to last. I thought I had thoroughly cleaned engines before with all manner of degreaser/wax/oil remover, primer, etc and even if the car is just sitting without driving much, it flakes off. Has anyone got any miles/time on this method to tell how it really lasts?
POR-15 goes on as though you dipped the block in molten plastic and it's about as hard. I haven't run either of the engines I've painted yet but I've very happy w/ the POR product. The price was great too ($53 for the complete kit). The only problem I ever had was one of the blocks changed color after it went in the honing oil. POR had no explanation but they offered to take care of it however I wanted. I still had some paint so I recoated it and it looks great again.
My local machine shop builds lots of aluminum engines (mines a Mercedes) and says any paint (not latex obviously) will work because aluminum will disipate heat quickly. No engine enamels required.
holy chit! where are you buying your paint? I get a gallon of imron for $320 Ive always used urethane when matching the motor to the car with no problems, Im going to have to give the one shot a try on the next resto motor.
Engine paint???? If an engine gets hot enough to burn off "regular" paint, like PPG, HoK, or even cheap Krylon, there's something wrong.... I've been using AutoAir (or HoK BC) topcoated with automotive clear.
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