Building a 32 roadster and had a issue with clearance at SBC water pump and cooling fan up front. Frame is painted now. Rather then cut the frame and move mounts back, I had brackets cut to offset the engine mounts back 1”. Had covers made to hide brackets. Im fine running it as is because no one will see the brackets but curious if anyone has a better solution. I don’t want to run solid brackets with no cushion/insulation. Any input is welcome.
These have become the common style mount for clearance related issues, two simple tabs on the frame rail, the paint touch up would seem minimal to me. Yes, they are urethane bushed.
I looked at making something like that but current frame setup would require fab/paint work. Wonder if I could fab something with bushings on both sides of the current frame mounts...
No free lunch in this deal, Either you bite the bullet and do it right or you end up with a cobbled up mess because you don't want to do a bit of fab and paint work.
I’m not against doing it, just trying to think outside of the box for a easier mount solution. Seen several offset mounts online but lots are for different engines or solid mount with no bushing/insulation.
The mounts on your frame would need to have the bushing in the tube with the way its layed out now. Stay solid mointed or Make the cut and change it as needed, Black paint will blend.
Looks pretty simple,and clean to me.With the exhaust so close I doubt any one will see it. Ive seen much worse in home built engine mounts.......plumbing pipe is always a nice touch. You must have trimmed the lower firewall to get one more inch of set back.Mine is stock,and its right to it.
Fabrication of a new engine mount would be the easiest. Putting a 289 302 ford in a 32 you have to use offset motor mounts.
What you've done looks fine to me too and as has already been said it'll be hidden away anyway. One thing that concerns me is that the engine will be raised up ever so slightly as the rubber mounts are spaced off the block by the thickness of the adapters - this assumes the originals are set up correctly ie the flat part of the mount sits on the pad on the tube - the bolts serving merely to prevent the engine jumping off the mounts. Because the engine effectively sit in a V shape this extra dimension will be slightly exaggerated and if clearances are tight, eg distributor, you might have created another problem. But it'll probably be fine. I can't imagine an alternative solution that doesn't involve paint! Edit - looking at the second pic it looks as if the mount is lower on the adapter than it would be were it mounted directly to the block. So the engine is already higher than it would be ordinarily. I assume this is intentional and a factored in to your mockup. Chris
Another good reason to fit everything BEFORE you paint it! I don't see any problem with your mounts. The hack that mounted the SBC in my Lincoln had it mounted solid, no rubber, by only one tab end of the mount to clear the steering box. It wasn't pretty, they had taken a torch and cut away the back tab and side of the engine mount, but it was holding good when I took it out. At least yours is supported on both sides of the mount. I'd paint them black and they will disappear under the exhaust, doubt anybody will ever notice.
You might be able to take the mounts where they bolt to the engine block and slot them, or maybe add some short extended ears and then slot them. Probably wouldn't be noticeable when done. The later model unmentionable Chevy engine conversions have plates that bolt to the block and the mount bolts to the plate. The plates can be flipped to allow a forward or rearward mounting position. If you modify your existing mount by adding tabs to it, don't weld them all at once and put too much heat into the rubber. Might have to use Allen Head bolts.
I'm sure you've all seen the LS conversion style mounts (usually for more OT vehicles), with a L-O-N-G plate added, and that's basically what you've done here. If it works, it works. I've seen a whole lot worse things done. And I agree with not hacking up what you've already done, and substitute a simple modification for the engine mounting. Even the forward by 1/2", 2", 2-1/2" Tri-Five Chevrolet mounts are done with just a simple "re-placement" of the through-bolt shaft, and then later on that BBC gets replaced with an LS, and the long plates. If it works, it works. Have the plates chromed, and everyone will want them. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
I've done a few chassis and I think the mounts you built will look just fine when they're painted block color. What you did is no different than what's being fabricated to mount an LS motor using the stock style rubber side mounts.
Take a look at this mount. I'm referring to the rubber and steel piece bolted to the block. Notice that it is meant to attach to the frame with a single bolt from the bottom. You could make a steel adapter somewhat like the one that Pete & Jake made way back when but configured to go back instead of up.
Interesting. Would like to know more about these mounts. Haven’t seen a mount with a bolt thru the middle to hold a bracket. I’m assuming they just drilled it and attached the bracket?
I remember having mounts like that in a v8 Vega kit, they work but I would put a cable or chain to hold the engine for when it breaks. I run a solid mount on drivers side when using the 72 and older style engine mounts. Here are poly versions, maybe stronger. https://www.performanceonline.com/1...MIuti53uyn7QIVGHeGCh2AXg0DEAQYBCABEgKFcPD_BwE
Yea just searched and found some, didn’t know older mounts came with a bolt hole thru the middle. Would of saved a lot of time getting brackets fab to move back. Now I could just make a bracket and offset a 1” and would give a cleaner look then my current setup.
My eyes are not as good as they used to be but it looks to me like you are running Camaro style mounts with brackets to offset them. Is that the case? if it is you still have an insulator, right?
Shimming the mounts like that actually spreads the centre to centre distance between the engine mounting holes, albeit slightly offset each side. Chances are that the engine mounts won't fit too well on the original mounts. Personally I'd bite the bullet, cut them off and reposition in the correct position before rewelding them to the frame.
The Jalopy Journal
