I had the same problem on a 351W that was just rebuilt Turns out I had the intake gaskets in wrong! Changed them and problem went away Just trying to help
This engine with a tunnel ram and two four barrels (390 cfm ) runs and idles like a dream. I don't think a vacuum advance will improve the engine
Thank you and thanks for all the replies about this issue. It is real hot in Jeresy so i will get to test it all out this weekend. I might try the two different fan blades just to see if it makes a differance.
You mentioned it has mechanical advance, you mean centrifugal advance that changes with rpm, right? That still leaves you without something that lets advance change with engine load, it has to have the same advance on full throttle as idle, meaning it will have less than ideal advance all the time except for when running full throttle. It still runs well, you just have to give it more throttle to get the same (part throttle) performance to compensate for the power lost due to non-ideal advance. Probably mostly noticeable on the fuel consumption, and as gas is so cheap over there that might not matter to you.
But he is using the stock dist set up and is running hot,so something needs to change,also fuel has changed a lot since that dist was used.
By buddy has a 1967 mustang pretty stock,his wife bought it brand new,he has blown out 2 heater cores over the years and now has the heated hoses plugged off like that no problems.
So did Boss 302 , 427 , etc. does that mean that it was High Performance engine designed to run at high RPM and not slower street driving ? You ask for HELP , you were given helpful advice , seems as you have it all figured out . Some times it’s hard to convince someone that if a car manufacture did not feel there was a need or reason for a vacuum advance , they could of been saving millions straight into the profit by not adding one to the mix of ignition parts . Just think , before shooting the messenger .
@deathrowdave, I didn't mean to start an argument, offend anyone, shoot any messengers, pee in anybody's corn flakes or negate any of the helpful tips provided. I simply pointed out that the OP, (@ModelARon) is running a hipo 289 in his car, c/w the factory distributor.
That six blade fan that you have with the thin little blades with just one little angle on them won't work. I've used those before and found them to be very inadequate. I think you are correct in your diagnosis that you need more air flow. Fans with wide curved blades flow the most air. I am attaching pictures of the fans I use on some of my cars. I never use shrouds. The electric fan here is from a Chevy HHR, it's about 50 bucks from RockAuto. I take the shroud off and build my own mounts. This one is cooling my 13.5 to 1 468 cid Hemi. In stop and go traffic in Atlanta with the outside temp almost 100° the car never got over 185. The mechanical fan is on my olds. It's a seven blade fan with wide blades. I installed it to replace a fan just like the six blade fan you have in your picture. With the six blade fan it got up to 260° when I was stuck in a drive-thru and boiled over. With the seven blade fan I have pictured, it never gets over the thermostat setting of 180, even idling in high temps. Just finished up an hour and a half 4th of July parade in 90° weather. Your car may run just fine without vacuum advance, but it will run cooler and more efficiently if you have a vacuum advance. When you are idling or the engine is running slowly there is not enough mechanical advance happening. That is where the vacuum advance will pull in another 15° or so of timing under light load and it does make it run cooler. Good luck
Yes, thats what I was referring to. Not sure if the other small hose needs to be removed and capped as well. What you are trying to avoid is any ability to bypass going thru the radiator....and maybe pumping in a non-cooling circle. At idle there is less volume being pumped, so if an alternate path is available, some or a lot of that reduced volume may not go to the radiator. Anyway, just a guess on my part.
It looks to me like you have the same dilemma I have. That is, the diameter of that fan is way too small. Mine is 13 inches in diameter and I am pretty much limited to that for the opposite reason you may be limited to it. My fan sits very high on the radiator because the motor sits high in the frame. I have tried about every 13 inch fan made and I keep going back to this flex fan like you have. I actually bent the blades to have a sharper angle trying to get it to move more air. Airflow is definitely your problem if you ask me.
Try using a smaller diameter water pump pulley to speed up the pump. A little shorter fan belt may be needed. 160 degree thermostat in the summer heat. The key to really good cooling lies in the radiator design. A 4 row core with the maximum number of fins is as good as it gets. I do not like electric, especially pusher fans, which in my experience don't do any good and are ugly. As a lot of us old mechanics used to say "if it's making steam it's okay. When it runs out of water so much that it stops making steam, you're going the need a new engine ". Like I said before, a mechanical fan as big as will fit, with plenty of blade pitch should be a major help. Most engines will run hot in 100 degree weather. It's up to you to figure out how much hot you can stand. Make sure you use antifreeze in the proper 50/50 proportions to raise the boiling point.
Those fans are junk and don't move enough air. Get a fixed blade fan or a flex that's not that style, more like a regular flex fan than that saw blade. The cfm of the one you have there is not enough to cool a honda lawnmower.
If 13 in is your maximum size, this is the one you need. It has the wide blades that actually move air. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-17213
That Ricky Racer fan especially when cut down is not going to pull enough air even with the shroud.. I had one of those damned things on my 48 for years beause yes, it was the only thing I found that fit in the space but just as you found out with the other fan it only covers a small part of the radiator. Exact same issue as you had though, stayed right on the desired temp while moving, temp gauge went up in a hurry at a stop light. Simply meaning that the shroud should help a lot but you still may not have enough fan blade to pull enough air through. Those "race fans " were sold because they had less resistance years ago
The Fan needs to be 1/4 " from the radiator and there needs to be an air outlet back by the floorboards if you're running a hood. Water Wetter liquid in the radiator can help too and no trans cool in or on the radiator, put it below or behind the radiator somewhere. Finallly no 2 core radiator, you need 4 or 5 cores.
We seem to always gravitate to fans as being the cause. Not saying that it isn't often the cause, but haven't seen any good ways to verify actual air movement. I came across this video of how to build a very very cheap smoke gun for testing for engine vacuum leaks and emission stuff. Occurred to me that it might have some merit in judging how much air someones fan was actually moving. I have seen pictures of shrouds installed with large air gaps around the sides, and fans mounted directly to the radiator. Sometimes they work and sometimes maybe they contribute to the inability of a fan to move air thru the radiator. A simple smoke gun like this should allow someone to move the hose around the shroud and in front of the radiator and see if there is a good flow of air. Rev the engine and observe any changes. Might want to make a better way to secure the lid on the can............ ttps://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+make+a+smoke+machine&ei=DYPGZPG_JKmq5NoPyMyRsAM&oq=how+to+make+a+smoke&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiE2hvdyB0byBtYWtlIGEgc21va2UqAggEMggQABiABBiwAzIIEAAYgAQYsAMyCBAAGIAEGLADMggQABiABBiwAzIIEAAYgAQYsAMyCBAAGIAEGLADMggQABiABBiwAzIIEAAYgAQYsAMyCBAAGIAEGLADMggQABiABBiwA0iSMFAAWABwAXgAkAEAmAEAoAEAqgEAuAEByAEA4gMEGAEgQYgGAZAGCg&sclient=gws-wiz-serp
I drove the car a few times this weekend. The car is running cooler when it is moving, it stays about 180 degrees. After a long ride i park in my drive way it gets up to about 230 close to 240. The gauge only goes to 240. I plan to try the old four blade fan just to see if it makes any difference. I think part of the problem is the blade is too far from the radiator. Its about 2" on the top and about 1 1/4" on the bottom. So its not pulling enough air. I might just fit an electric fan.
The fan you have in pic was designed to be run with a small motor to water pump for cool down on drag use after each pass , Ditch the skinny fan!! The 4 blade im sure mover more air then the Skinny ,, A 6 blade will be so much better. Summit has there brand around $40 SS. You gave total timing ""BUT"" What the Initial Timing Should be set some where between 15-20 deg BTDC ( ( engine will like as long as TDC 0 is correct .
Nice use of chrome bolts sir! It may not run cool but it looks cool! Your gauge numbers stop at 240 but the peg is much higher. Looks close to 300. Not that I would want to be int he car when it hits the peg. It may have been asked already (I don't read posts, I basically cruise them for pictures of girls and cool cars) but have you tested the water temp to check the accuracy of your gauges? Are those mechanical SW or electric?
With the shroud it shouldn't matter how far away the fan is, it could be in the back seat as far as the radiator is concerned , the shroud makes sure (almost) all the air the fan moves is sucked through the radiator. Without a shroud distance is way more important, as any distance lets air sneak in from the side instead of come through the radiator. Some distance is logically good when you have a shroud, you WANT air to enter from the side, as that's the air that was sucked through the outer areas of the radiator.
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