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Technical Electric heater matrix

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by nobby, Oct 21, 2019.

  1. nobby
    Joined: Jan 8, 2006
    Posts: 1,206

    nobby
    Member

    Anyone ise one in a rod.
    Would it be easier to modify an older 40s style hadees unit with an electric matrix
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,942

    squirrel
    Member

    Most of us would first have to know what an electric matrix is, before we could answer that question.

    It sounds like a part from a late model car. If so, how much power does it take? My guess is it would entirely overload the electric system in a hot rod.
     
    dana barlow likes this.
  3. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My wife's German car has one, inline with the heater core. It is part of the cold-weather package. It's sole purpose is to allow the defroster to briefly function, to clear to clear the windshield, when the car is very cold.

    The power leads that supply it are enormous, as is the relay.

    As it is a pump-driven (not common rail) diesel, it only needs the battery to start, and to run minimal electronics. Even so, it has a 240A computer-controlled alternator.

    Putting a similar system in a hot rod would likely be foolish.

    Only EVs have electric heaters, and they have massive electric power potential.

    There is a reason why coolant heat is the standard.
     
  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,942

    squirrel
    Member

    Thanks for the explanation, that's what I suspected.

    Also, I did a little research, and learned that the British name for Heater Core is Heater Matrix.
     
    VANDENPLAS likes this.

  5. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I cannot tell what gauge the wire is, because I don't know how thick the jacket is, but it is between 4 and 2ga.

    I just put a clamp meter on it, and it draws almost 100A, and this is a low-utilization device.

    I cannot imagine how much power a full-time one would use.

    I am willing to wager that a bit of hose, some clamps, some fittings, a fluid matrix, and valve are going to cost anywhere near what a fully built-up electrical system would cost, even before you add the heater.
     
  6. neilswheels
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,213

    neilswheels
    Member
    from England

  7. G-son
    Joined: Dec 19, 2012
    Posts: 1,277

    G-son
    Member
    from Sweden

    12V electricity is impractical for creating heat, as the current required becomes ridiculusly high. The linked 600W unit would consume 50A, and probably just be able to keep the windscreen clear, not actually give any comfortable heat in cold weather.
    Using electricity made with a combustion engine for making heat (usually) makes even less sense, as the engine puts out most of the energy from the fuel as waste heat. Use the waste heat.
     
    Elcohaulic and gimpyshotrods like this.
  8. Ziggster
    Joined: Aug 27, 2018
    Posts: 1,697

    Ziggster
    Member

    I guess it depends on what you wish to accomplish. If memory serves me correctly, a typical in in-dash NA automotive coolant type heater puts out between 10,000 and 30,000 Btu's. That kind of heat is not practical for an electrical heater. I've got a dual battery system in my truck, with a 3,000W rear mounted inverter, but it is meant for short-term high amp draws (power tools) or long-term low amp draws like my off-road fridge. My alternator is still only rated at 150A at peak output.
     
  9. G-son
    Joined: Dec 19, 2012
    Posts: 1,277

    G-son
    Member
    from Sweden

    To put it in perspective. 3000W isn't a whole lot when it's something you plug into the 110-230V wall outlet at home (depending on where you live), but not a great amount of heat in a poorly insulated space you have to heat from outside temperature quickly (as a car parked outside when you get in it a cold morning).
    150A @ 12V is 1800W, and 240A @ 12V is 2880W. Not even the crazy big 240A generator would be able to keep up with the 3kW inverter, or anything else consuming 3kW - and that's w/o taking the rest of the car electrical system into account.

    If you want heat w/o taking it from the engine, use an Ebersprächer like in the old air cooled VWs. Burns diesel or petrol, and heats air or water (depending on what model you get). You can put it in the trunk and just blow hot air into the cab, or perhaps under the dash, heat the coolant and run the fan to both get the cab heated and engine hot before starting the car, when you run the heater on a timer (i.e. before you go to work in a winter morning). Consumes a little electricity to run the pump, fan etc, but nothing like trying to use the electricity straight for heat.

    [​IMG]
     
    gimpyshotrods likes this.
  10. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,817

    BJR
    Member

    Back in the late 60's a friend of mine had a VW bug with a gas heater. When he ran the gas heater to keep from freezing, the VW got about the same gas mileage as my 1965 389 Bonneville.
     
  11. G-son
    Joined: Dec 19, 2012
    Posts: 1,277

    G-son
    Member
    from Sweden

    No wonder, the VW takes three times as long to move the same distance! ;)
     
    Jet96 likes this.

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