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Edelbrock SB Intake Manifold Install

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 64impala, Jan 16, 2013.

  1. 64impala
    Joined: Sep 14, 2012
    Posts: 79


    Make: Chevrolet
    Model: Impala SS
    Year: 1964
    Engine: 327 cui

    This is my first attempt at swapping out a intake manifold and I need a little direction.

    Problem: Old Edelbrock intake (12 years) cracked.

    Attempting to replace intake manifold with new Edelbrock intake manifold model 27013.

    -When removing the old intake, the first thing I noticed was that the old intake has 6 water passages (the new intake has 4).
    -The previous owner, for whatever reason, blocked the 2 end passages (near firewall) with some sort of cement filler within the intake itself.
    Someone advised me that my heads were "camel hump", is there a difference between a "stock" intake and "camel hump" as far as the number of water passages (6 versus 4).
    -The previous owner also did NOT remove the gasket center holes for the
    middle 2 water passages, thus it appears the old intake was only circulating coolant via 2 passages (back 2 blocked, middle 2 gasket blocked).

    In comparing the old intake with the new, the new one has 4 coolant passages (the back 2 were machined closed by Edelbrock), I'm guessing that was either for performance improvement or stock versus camel hump head configuration.
    Also, Edelbrock included 4 thin metal plates with the new intake, how are those used and do I need to use them?
    So, is it okay to go forward with new intake install after clean-up of heads/ports and suggested configuration?

    Note: See attached pics of intakes, gaskets, heads, engine, etc.

    Attached Files:

  2. dblgun
    Joined: Oct 24, 2009
    Posts: 348


    Neither of the manifolds have the rear passages for water. The center "port" is not for water but rather a "heat riser" for the carburetor. You have the ability with those gaskets to knock out the centers if you want it to be functional. The metal is to restrict the flow of the heat riser passage if desired. I do not run the heat passages and in most aftermarket heads the whole thing is eliminated.
  3. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,527

    from Wa.St.

    Those are some nasty looking rear water jackets...........................
    Joined: Jan 14, 2010
    Posts: 332


    First, your heads are not "camel hump". Camel hump heads have 2 bumps (humps) on the pad at front of head, yours has only 1 hump. Front passages on intake on each side are water passages. Center passages are exhaust crossover ports for heating intake under carb. Back 2 passages are water and don't need to be used. The metal plates are used to restrict the exhaust flow on center 2 ports.

  5. Looks like you got the info you need. Make sure you lay an old shop towel in the valley to catch any crap you scape off. Get those heads spotless befor installing the new intake.
  6. Jay Tyrrell
    Joined: Dec 9, 2007
    Posts: 1,631

    Jay Tyrrell

    Those water jackets are messed! Clean them up really good man!
  7. 64impala
    Joined: Sep 14, 2012
    Posts: 79


    So, if I were to use the metal plates for the center "exhaust crossover ports" for heating intake under carb", how are the metal tabs installed?

    Not sure if I should even use them!?

    These plates are flat on one side, and have 2 tabs that rise at 12 & 6 o'clock at the center of the holes in the metal plate.

    Do the tabs go down or up into the heads?
    Are they placed on top or below the gasket?
    Do the tabs need any sealant or just lay them down?

    Thanks for all your help guys.... Its appreciated...
  8. landseaandair
    Joined: Feb 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,476

    from phoenix

    The plates should be able to be paired up with one having tabs top and bottom, the other side to side with the gasket sandwiched in between. Then just bend them over and flatten out. Being in the Bay area, a little heat in the intake will help but I'd still put a restrictor in both gaskets.
  9. landseaandair
    Joined: Feb 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,476

    from phoenix

    Also, I always put some sealant around all the water ports just in case.
  10. 64impala
    Joined: Sep 14, 2012
    Posts: 79


    Just so that I understand you correctly:

    1. place one metal plate on each side of the gasket middle port(s),
    thus the gasket is sandwiched between the plates.
    2. each metal plate will have tabs facing up on both sides of gasket.
    3. bend each tab inward towards each other (towards center of plate hole), thus making both sets of tabs touch each other.

  11. landseaandair
    Joined: Feb 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,476

    from phoenix


    On #3 the tabs should go towards the outside and hold the plates together.
  12. propwash
    Joined: Jul 25, 2005
    Posts: 3,858

    from Las Vegas

    I'm biting my tongue here, remembering that I made a few 'learning curve' mistakes back in the day. Last E/brock manifold I bought new had full instructions that included what everything in the package was for and how it was to be used (if selected). Did the OP not get those instructions?
    That bit of curmudgeonly commentary over, too bad we didn't all have the HAMB and its collective experience available 'way back when', but then, that's why there IS a vast collective experience here I guess - we've all learned from trial and error.
  13. 64impala
    Joined: Sep 14, 2012
    Posts: 79


    The "OP" did receive the Edelbrock intake manifold install instructions and there was no mention of the "heat transfer" port metal plates.
    Perhaps a portion of the install instructions were excluded, regardless, these type of forums are appreciated for those of us not as experienced in the art of mechanics.
  14. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,151


    USe Youtube as a guide as well. Its a wealth of hands on, visual information.
  15. 64impala, it's all good. I was 15 when I built my first engine and damned if I didn't forget to put the oil pump shaft in (351w). All assembled and swaped into another car, all hooked up and ready to go. Fired up with open manifolds, the sound of open exhaust in a small garage and the smell of fresh engine paint burning off and damn I toasted the bearings, no oil pressure. During tear down I found out what that funny shaft that looked like a #2 pencil was for sitting on the work bench.

    Be sure to use a 50/50 mixture of DISTILLED water and quality anti-freeze, see the 'gunk' on your rear water passages, calcium and mineral deposits from tap water.

    Reference: Here is the double hump style.

    Also, Crankshaft Colition has some reference images you can cross.
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2013
  16. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,607


    OUCH...That hurts just thinking about it. Reminds me of my first rebuild. 51 Merc flathead...threw all the rod mains in a box, nothing labeled. Reassembled it and spun every bearing. Oh, to be 15 again.
  17. King Karl
    Joined: Sep 27, 2007
    Posts: 384

    King Karl
    from N.C.

    Don't forget to check for rags left behind. Can leave you scratching your head for a while. (Don't ask...) lol
    Your picture of the black shop rag reminded me of that.
  18. 64impala
    Joined: Sep 14, 2012
    Posts: 79


    A few clarification questions:

    1. I've read that the "heat riser" ports are NOT really needed in fair weather states such as N. California, but then there are some that say they are recommended for daily drivers regardless of weather?

    2. Are the holes in the "heat riser" metal plates designed to just partially
    block the heat coming into the intake?

    3. If I decide to keep the "heat riser" ports blocked, do I just keep them covered with the gasket? In other words, don't punch out the center gasket holes, or is there another set of metal plates that don't have a hole in them and block the heat completely?

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