Over the coarse of owning the 37 with the ignition switch/steering lock assy. I’ve had really poor luck trying to get it to work properly. Normally they overheat from poor contact on the switch arm. I’ve tried various NOS and aftermarket assys but no luck. I hate not using the stock switch. The aftermarket toggle switches work great but it just bugs me to give up. This weekend was just another disappointment. Installed the Aftermarket replacement. Worked good. Definitely brought my trusty toggle as backup. Took the coupe out with my wife on an evening trip. Was on one of the busiest 4 lane interchanges in the county and the ignition cut out. Scary scene. Was able to bypass the switch and got it going with cars passing me at 60 mph on both sides. Has anyone had luck fixing those things?
I've had good luck with cleaning the contacts with Emory paper till they shine, and making sure the spring tension is good. Also clean the post, and nuts. Hope this helps Petejoe.....
I have no idea how many circuits so I'll word it this way. Use stock ignition switch to trigger relay/relay's instead. Then if you have future issue's (should never again) just swap a relay out.
Like you I fought it for years with my 40 sedan and later my '32 sedan, I finally gave up when my sedan left me on the side of the road late one evening,a bypass switch solved my problem. HRP
I have to agree with the relay suggestion. It's not a matter if a switch controlling high current will fail but when it will fail. Just went through this with a ex-police motorcycle. When they removed the red and blue pursuit lights the replacement clear "passing beams" were wired directly through to the control switch on the handlebars. Yes, it took a few years to fail but it did. Switch replaced and relay now wired in.
Yes, Use the Ford switch to trigger the relay. You must also replace the worn contact plate and brush with NOS pieces (not reproductions) the little springs behind the contacts get weak and need to have the proper tension. Also replace the 3/16" ball and spring that locks the switch into position. With new parts and the 40-amp relay it will work flawlessly.
Thanks for the feedback everyone. Relay it is. But I’ve also learned something new. A few mention springs. Mine didn’t have springs. In the past I’ve just tried to increase contact tension by bending the tabs on the brush contact.
OK, I see what your dealing with. In '38 Ford improved the ignition switch by going to a spring loaded three contact assembly (has three studs on the plate) Battery, Gauge, Ignition. The springs provide tension to the contacts. You may be able to swap out to the '38-'39 parts to improve your switch. Old Ford parts dealer should be able to advise you on this.
This brings up a question I have about 6V switch /12V system... Using a new 6V switch to only trigger a 12V relay ...Any problem ??? There would still be 12V going thru the switch to the relay ,but the load/demand seems to me would be less. Am I on the right track....Electrically challenged ol' timer here ,so any real world info appreciated Stan
Probably not, your existing switch is in what is sometimes referred to as a 'pilot duty' application. Low amperage (current) draw.
As said above--use stock switch to energize relay. Have done many 40 Fords this way and doing one now as well (at least 10) -never a failure-minimal load thru switch. All using the original switch and contacts. Just helped a fellow hamber on here with this same issue. I als0 use a relay to fire the starter from the stock push button-have done many this way as well.
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