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Early Chevy transmissions?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dale Fairfax, Jul 18, 2009.

  1. Dale Fairfax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2006
    Posts: 2,585

    Dale Fairfax
    Member Emeritus

    I need a top shift 3 speed transmission for a Chevy with a torque tube. I know that Chevy passenger cars went to a column shift/side shift transmission in '39. Top shift boxes from earlier ('35-'38) models seem to be quite scarce. What about 1/2 ton trucks? Did the '41-'47s have top shift and torque tube?
     
  2. Those old 3 speed Chevy transmissions were weak, a little wear and they would get to where they would jump out of gear going down the road. Many an old Chevy pickup owner has had a bungee cord hooked onto the seat frame so that the other end could be hooked over the gearshift lever to hold it in high gear. Not a trans that you want to put behind anything that has more power than the stock babbit bearing 6. You're way ahead of the game to lose the torque tube rear (which you could use to build a trailer) and swap in a rear out of a Nova or Camaro, then you can have a choice of any number of transmissions that would be way better than an old Chevy 3 speed. If you want to keep 6 lugs, look at a Nissan pickup rear, same 6 lug bolt pattern as old Chevys. Guy brought a '34 Chevy sedan to our cruise a couple of months ago, a real sleeper resto-rod rolling on 6 lug stock wire wheels. He used a Nissan pickup rear, same width as the stock Chevy rear, open drive, and the Chevy wire wheels bolted right on.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2009
  3. 6inarow
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,363

    6inarow
    Member

    The answer is yes thiose trans will "bolt up" and "fit" , but the trans on pick ups were different than cars. So you have to make some mods to get it to work.

    The other option is Patricks 4 speed trans conversion for torque tubes. Sort of pricey but works and you are going to have to make the mods anyhow, so why not put a trans that works in there? PM me for details.
     
  4. Dale Fairfax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2006
    Posts: 2,585

    Dale Fairfax
    Member Emeritus

    All good advice but not pertinent to the project: the restoration of an old track roadster that was powered by (first) a 216 then a 235. In 1949-'52 it had an "in/out" box behind the engine with a Ford torque tube rearend and had to be push started.. The car will be used for vintage racecar exhibitions only but want to make it a self starter which requires a clutch and gearbox. Still using the Ford rearend and will have to figure a way to adapt the Chevy output to the Ford drive shaft. Probably will involve splicing in a piece of Chevy torque tube.
     

  5. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 7,873

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    Dale,
    The '37-'39 pass. car & '37-early '47 truck boxes both have the same bellhousing bolt pattern & spline. The '41 up truck is best - has needle bearings in the cluster. The gear jumping/syncro grinding can be cured by a thicker shim behind 2nd gear -it compensates for the worn snap ring groove in the rear of the case.
     
  6. fordcragar
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 3,198

    fordcragar
    Member
    from Yakima WA.

    Unless you want to keep the car period perfect, you might consider the kit for the S-10 4x4 trans (T-5) to torque-tube (Ford) rear; that crazydaddyo makes.
     
  7. 39 chevy kustom
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 427

    39 chevy kustom
    Member

    My 39 master deluxe was a 3 speed floor shift, it was still available in 39.
     
  8. Dale Fairfax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2006
    Posts: 2,585

    Dale Fairfax
    Member Emeritus

    This is exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks a bunch. Now we know better what to look for plus the field of selection is broader than we thought.
    Even with a Chevy transmission the car won't be 100% period correct.That would require installing an in/out box which, even if we could find one, wouldn't satisfy our objective of making the car more "user friendly".


     

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