hello can you take a 1990 305 roller sbc and 1. fit 283 small valve heads with staggered valve covers - no accessory drillings - what is the max intake valve 2. run the early style intake with the oil filler in it, even though the later block does not have the tower to get the oil into the pan. 3. I use the alternator that looks like a dynamo and mount it to the exhaust manifold - ? If so and I use tube headers, what does the mount look like? 4. how do I go about fitting a power steering pump IF I have no accessory holes in the heads - dpo oem mounts exist for the non tapped heads 5. do I have to have the short pump and a 63 double crank pulley, does the later 305 balancer move the pulley out?
Guys put the Vortex heads on early blocks,with the later Vortex type intake so I guess you could go the other direction.You will be going to lose horse power most likely unless you do a lot of head work.Likely 1.94 valves will be your best choice.Small CC chamber heads will help keep the horse power up.Large chamber heads will lower compression.I think I would figure out valve cover adaptors to run the early covers on the late engine,and call it a day.Check Speedway motors they may sell such a thing." I just checked Speedway.Look at part number 91017157.Run the early Vette covers on the late engine.
1.72 valves in those early heads, and they work fine on a 283, and even a 301 (283 bored 1/8" oversize) which is pretty darn close to a 305, eh? You can even run a real generator, if you have the balls.....the mount bracket for use with headers is the stock generator bracket, plus the header adapter bracket that folks use with an alternator. Adjusting bolt hole locations may be an issue, or may not be, but at least this setup will get the generator on the engine. As for the power steering pump....yes, you want to use a short water pump, and the original 283 style pulleys. They are two separate lower pulleys that fit together. And then you need the power steering pump bracket from a 1960-68ish small block. If your front motor mounts are on the front of the block instead of the sides, it might be complicated. There are a bunch of aftermarket design brackets available for this, but I'd really like to find the originals, if possible, it will look so much more like what you want it to look like (although getting rid of the power steering altogether would be better yet).
The 283 bore is 3.875. 305 is 3.736. I think the 1.94 valve will interfere with the cylinder wall, even if it clears the intake flow will not be effective. Another question would be what kind of springs are on the roller head and will they fit on the 283 head. I think that if it is a smaller valve 283 head that would work. The head should bolt on and the oil would drain into the lifter valley and then into pan. Power steering from a pre long water pump like a 67 Chev. has a PS braket that mounts low and to the motor mount bolt. The generator/dynamo bracket bolts onto the header bolts. These brkts. are available and may come with headers. The balancer and pulleys separate and you may just get away with a double belt pulley from a 67 chev. or early short water pump car. Pat
FWIW, if you do reuse the stock intake then you can keep the oil fill tube, of coarse. Early Chevy style Edelbrock intakes have a flat spot on the intake that you can bore out to accept the oil fill tube for instances that people go that route.
You are asking can you make a 305 look cool Yes. If you run the old style valve covers and intake, you may need to look at how the pcv will work. The old combo had a draft tube. The early power steering mount (not the pump mounted to the generator) uses the front lower block mounting holes. If you used rams horn manifolds you get an extra mounting spot. The vette ones are dang near as good as block hugger headers as far as performance.
The Vette rams are 2.5”. Those old power packs don’t even need that much volume. Exhaust ports are the size of a half dollar.
What squirrel said. Have a 65 327 with double hump heads in wife's 55. Has ac, ps and an alt now but on old style gen mount he shows. PS is mounted low in combo front motor mount on front of block-stock GM pump. You need the brackets he shows and a long arm that goes from alt/gen to water pump bolt. They used to break now and then so we always welded two together. All works fine with 605 box-been this way for 25+ years.
I think there is a lot of guys running around that could run a supercharger and not use up the exhaust volume. I think 2" is sufficient for just about everything normally aspirated. I see guys with 4"....not sure why. Back on topic. I think that little 305 roller motor with powerpack heads would be a hoot. I may have to build one now.
the trouble with this is how to run a pvc without having the road draft tube opening and not wanting to put holes in the valve covers.......
this? There is no hole to the crankcase, but there is one at teh bottom of the valley, open to the timing chain area
I ran some vintage aftermarket valve covers on my 350. No provision for the road draft stuff in the valley. The previous owner of the covers had already drilled a pcv hole. I ran it without one for its first road trip Lost a lot of oil. Added baffles to the covers for the fill/breather and pcv. Hooked up the pcv correctly and problem solved. Would a pcv in the back of the intake over the valley plumbed correctly to the intake work? I want to run early script covers but do not want to add the hole for the pcv. I have seen a flathead done similar.
On of the impala sites had a guy that claimed that on the dyno a 327 they built showed almost no difference between block huggers and vette rams horn manifolds. Hot Rod mag did a spec on a 290 Hp crate 350 a few years back. The full length headers they used gained 25hp (going off memory) over the truck style rear dump iron manifolds. What does any of this have to do with a 283? Probably nuthin but I’m watching tree limbs burn and needed a mental break from yard work
I'm running early Chevrolet script stamped valve covers (1964 chrome special edition) with no holes, and a edelbrock 3x2 manifold with front oil fill. No pvc. It will slobber oil out of the fill when I push it hard or on a longer trip. So I put a heavy sock over it to help keep it from turning into a mist in the air and covering everything.
I built a blown 383 using a new GM block and new 4bbl Edelbrock intake machined to accept a filler tube. Had the same idea as you, to dress down the modern stuff. Used PML script valve covers with push in breathers. No problem with oil fill or crankcase pressure. If you HAVE to use staggered bolt valve covers, your head options are tricky but sound like it would work with what you're wanting to do as others have stated. My advice, pick a year, do your research and build it to suit. For example, the 265ci V8 did not have an oil filter down on the block, opposite the starter. It was an option installed by either the dealer or the factory (rare). The early blocks had the big canister up on the intake. They changed to the traditional oil filter location on the 283.
groovy, so thinks to take note of are. you will need to switch the roller cams valve springs over, not as simple as slapping the heads on the valve seats are not hardened for modern pump gas. getting the oil in is not the issue, its the pcv valve position that I don't understand yet -------------------------------- so later block - 3'' 1 pc crank hub - easy peasy 10.5 manual flywheel - 157t bell house cylinder head chamber size for compression ratios - similar? do they happen to use the same size valves both at the head and length/girth ideally would want the power steering pump on the other side, oh and just for a laugh, maybe with a metric m16 high pressure port - where it sits now, will it fit on a 35-40 ford? - doubt it?