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Projects E-brake question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by norms30a, Mar 27, 2020.

  1. norms30a
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 565

    norms30a
    Member

    I have a 96 Ford Explorer rear end that I am putting in my 55 and I can't figgure out how the e-brake works. the driver side is simple,- - cable pulls the brake shoes. Passenger side cable is hooked to driver side with some kind of clamp to the end of the cable housing. I can't figure out how this works since I have never worked on SAM_1339.JPG a Ford setup before
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,909

    squirrel
    Member

    get rid of that cable set up, use cables that you can make work in your car.
     
  3. norms30a
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 565

    norms30a
    Member

    I have thought about getting a couple Lokar cables, just not sure how to make the 2 to 1 connection.
     
  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,909

    squirrel
    Member

    What are you planning to use for a handle/pedal?
     

  5. norms30a
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 565

    norms30a
    Member

    I have an 84 Chevy E brake pedal, I was planning to get an S 10 cable to run back on the driver side of frame. And this ford cable thing goes to the left side of the frame so I thought it would work
     
  6. With the Lokar cable kit you get the two into one cable mount and mount bracket. JW
     
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  7. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,352

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    I’m just gonna sit down right here and learn as I watch as you do this... :D
     
  8. norms30a
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 565

    norms30a
    Member

    So the cable coming from the front will have a ball on the end, is there a way to hook it to the Lokar system? Or should I run a Lokar cable all the way to the pedal under the dash? Also the cable to the pass. wheel will be much longer that the drivers wheel cable, can that extra length cause problems?
     
  9. Stop the Lokar cables under the car at a place that works without getting in the way of other important things. Cables can be shortened and a new ball or whatever it had end put on. JW
     
    olscrounger likes this.
  10. Just read your profile and by what you have built i can't see you having a problem working this out. JW
     
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  11. catdad49
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 4,403

    catdad49
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I believe you're over thinking it. One cable from the handle, back to a block that has provisions to attach 2 cables, one going to each side. You Got This!
     
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  12. norms30a
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 565

    norms30a
    Member

    I hope you are right, E-brakes are super important. I never drive anything without it working really well.
     
  13. catdad49
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 4,403

    catdad49
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Look on the Lokar site even if you are not looking to purchase. The thing that I found most difficult when I added an e-brake to the Coupe was finding all the internal brake parts . Located a good picture and started comparing, NAPA and Currie had everything. Piece of cake after that.
     
  14. norms30a
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 565

    norms30a
    Member

    Thanks, I went to the Lokar site and they sell a cable set for my 96 Ford disc brake rear end, part number EC-81FU. the cables ends will fit the small brake drum lever on the rear end and they are 8 feet long with frame mounts at the adjuster end. It costs about $170 not figuring shipping. Lokar also has the cable that goes from the E-brake pedal or handle down through the floor and on back. It is 6 feet long and has the parts to mate up with the 2 cables from the rear. Part number EC-8001U and it is about $100. Glad you mentioned checking them out I think I will go this route as I always want a really good E brake. Of course the Lokar stuff is a lot more costly than the Ford cables.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2020
  15. Retrorod
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 2,024

    Retrorod
    Member

    On a current project I think I screwed up...I built the 9 inch Ford rear end while it was on the bench including new Lokar park brake cables and Ford hardware (thanks Currie). Now the chassis is complete and I need to shorten the cables to make everything fit. It looks like I'll have to take the drums off and pull the cables off the arms I think. Maybe I'm making a mountain out of a mole hill. Any suggestions?
     
  16. catdad49
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 4,403

    catdad49
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Man, didn't realize it was that expensive. When I bought the coupe the cables and handle were with it, just not installed. The missing parts were cheap, guess I lucked out! Glad I could help, Carp.
     
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  17. catdad49
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 4,403

    catdad49
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You cut the front of the cables, but leave enough that you can adjust later. I don't think that will be a problem, but you never know. Hard to make 'em longer!
     
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  18. norms30a
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 565

    norms30a
    Member

    Just make sure everything is built before cutting the cables. Too long is a good problem, just some work. On my A I had the car complete before cutting the cables exhaust, wiring, gas lines, driveshaft, everything that had to go under the body was mounted then I checked the cables for routing and clearance and even then I cut them just a little bit long.
     
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  19. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 655

    Doublepumper
    Member

    Just something to note....the disc brake style 8.8 e-brake cables can be flipped, so that the main pull cable can be routed on the passenger side, if needed. I did that on my project to be able to link it up to my factory cable that runs down the pass. side. Works great! Good luck!
     
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  20. Retrorod
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 2,024

    Retrorod
    Member

    Thanks gang. I'm on it.
     
  21. Dangerous Dan
    Joined: Jul 10, 2011
    Posts: 357

    Dangerous Dan
    Member
    from Graham Wa.

    I have a 8.8 disc brake rear in my 48 Chevy, E brake was the was the easiest thing about thing about the whole installation. Both cables are pulled together by 1 cable going to what ever you use for a E brake handle, BUT you need a bracket off a Exploder that goes forward of where the 2 cables come together and the cable that goes forward to your foot peddle or in my case the stock hand lever.
     
  22. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 655

    Doublepumper
    Member

    While I was under my heap, I snapped a quick pic showing the Explorer bracket (slightly modified by cutting off unneeded protrusions), and retract assist spring attached to the bottom of the right side frame rail. Clean-n-simple.
    (1).jpg
     
  23. norms30a
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 565

    norms30a
    Member

    I can see your bracket, I have one of those. I am really dense, can you explain how the system works? I see the retract spring but doesn't the cable slide inside of the housing? Or possibly does the housing move for and aft somehow to pull the second cable clamped to the outside of the housing?
     
  24. Driver50x
    Joined: May 5, 2014
    Posts: 119

    Driver50x
    Member

    For what it’s worth, I shortened my own cables. After cutting the outer casing and the inner cable to length, I just took a couple of small nuts, slid them over the inner cable, and peened them down with a hammer. They hold just fine. The Lokars sound nice, but are way overpriced for this cheapskate. :)
     
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  25. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 655

    Doublepumper
    Member

    The cables slide inside the housings...and...the unsecured housing moves fore and aft. The unsecured housing is allowed to flex forward when under pressure from the e-brake lever pulling the cable from it. That housing end has a connector attached that also pulls the cable on the captured housing. The flex in the unsecured housing acts to equalize the pull to both cables. Hope that helps make some sense of it.
     
  26. norms30a
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 565

    norms30a
    Member

    It makes a lot of sense thanks, still my brain says it's not supposed to work that way,lol. the way you have it mounted looks straight forward and simple too.
     
  27. norms30a
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 565

    norms30a
    Member

    Yeah the Lokar is about $175 more than stock Ford cables, have to think about that too.
     
  28. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 7,194

    jimmy six
    Member

    Norm. I install an 8.8 in my 56 and used the stock cables. The one I put in had 95 f-150 11” drum brakes installed. I didn’t think the “arm” in the drum system would work but they did. The only problem was the hole in the back plate was metric and was slightly smaller than the 56. When I figured that out and filed it larger every thing went together. I’m not sure the diameter of the Explorer drums so the e-brake cable may end up very close to the leaf spring. It’s why I wanted 11” drums. They are slightly wider and I had the 8.8 narrowed to the size of the 56. The rear 8.8 already had 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern so the shop drilled the f-150 drums a second set of holes.

    I made the e-brake complicated in my mind but it turned out to be ez even thou the end of the didn’t look like it would work on the brackets in the system. I was wrong it’s been working perfect for a year.
    I didn’t buy any aftermarket parts. I was planning on installing discs on the front after I got the back working fine. Since I did not want a power unit 2 suppliers of them said to put smaller diameter wheel cylinders in the rear sine the f-150 had power brakes. I did that too good luck.
     
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  29. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 522

    jaracer
    Member

    I had a set made up to my specs by Control Cables Inc. www.controlcables.com , but I don't remember the cost. I believe I got a quote over the phone.
     
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