The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Duke, Dec 2, 2007.
My very limited two cents but....why not just use coil-overs on the rear? otherwise it looks great.
Cliff, I have asked myself that a few times. The only reason is that I wanted to stay with a early 60's look. I have some Jag coilovers that I had picked up in case this doesn't work out.
No, all the 2x2 struts do is transfer the torsional moment to the existing crossmember. Those 2 big plates you have coming off it now already do that. When I showed those struts in the model, they were in there to help split the load between the existing crossmember and the new one that would have been added IF you got rid of the 2 big plates. Probably the 3/16" plate that you have on the bottom of your spring mount is sufficient, as it is only spanning a short distance betwen the two large plates. If I was doing it, I would have made the spring mounting plate from 5/16" or 3/8". You have to have some understanding of how plate bracketry works---in the original crossmember, 3/16" is sufficient because the crossmember has 2 vertical legs and is formed somewhat like a large C channel---the legs on each side keep the center from bending. A flat peice of 3/16" plate is very weak without those continuous "sides" on it all the way around the crossmember. Probably what you have will be okay, because the two large plates that you have coming off the crossmember will help strengthen the 3/16" plate that you used. If in doubt, cut another peice of 3/16" plate the same size and weld all around the 4 sides of it.
First of all, your fab skills and execution are great! But, adding to Brian's concern - I, too, am not particularly enamored with the rear spring mount being cantilevered so far aft. As pointed out, excessive torsional forces wll be imparted to that rear crossmember.
Other than the excellent suggestions that Brian has offered as a "fix", have you considered doing away with all that bracketry and bracing in favor of a simple coilover setup? I realize that the buggy spring is infinitely-more "traditional" - but, tradition sorta went out the window when you chose the late diff instead of a banjo rearend, didn't it? Coilovers would greatly simplify your suspension. It would also decrease unsprung and overall weight - and, MIGHT arguably provide a better ride.
If it were mine, I would probably also think about beefing up the attachment strength of the rear ladder brackets by adding some C-shaped plates that converted 'em to 360° attachment around the perimeter of the axle tubes. Just my 2¢.
C'ya - RAY
Take this for what it's worth coming from someone with no fabrication skills, but looking directly from the back the spring cuts across the view of the center section. I believe it would be more asthetically pleasing if the spring were mounted higher so that the arch was slightly above the top line of the center section and didn't obstruct the view if the center section. Good work otherwise.
I want to keep the spring for the 60's feel of the car. Ther rear axle is a 57 ford, the engine is a 327 and will lose the HEI and new chrome valve covers and be replaced with original cal customs. The intake will be tri carb with 3 94's. I have looked at it and thought it would be easier to put in coilovers (would have taken a lot less fab work).
The center of the rear spring is 6.5 inches from the rear of the cross member. I hope if I add the extra 2x4 tube it will be strong enough. Or maybe I should just lose the spring and the coil overs will be less of an eye sore than what I am creating.
I really appreciate the comments as this is my first frame build, keep them coming.
Camjammer, who are you??
I have a book called Building and Racing the Hot Rod, that I bought somewhere around 1967/8. It shows coil over setups in it, so you could say it's a "late 60's" style. Personally I like the looks of the buggy spring. And like it has been mentioned, not too many people will see it under the car.
Some updated pictures. The body is on the frame for the first time. The rear spring mount has been braced and a k-member has been added to the frame. It is starting to look like a hot rod!
While life got in the way of my build, but I am back at it now. Since last updated I added a standard roof, repaired all the rust, added floors, a seat, 58' caddy wheel and built a custom dash. I am just working on fitting the fenders and boards. Next is to attach the visor and chop the top.
Life has a tendency to do that! Good to see you're back at it. Keep goin and you'll be out cruzin soon enough!!
Keep up the great work, and updates.
This car is coming along nicely.
Looking great. If you need a hand with the chop.....
I might take you up on that offer.
Wow! 2008 to Yesterday....
Coupe's looking good Man!..Nice Body Work!...keep it up! subscribed!
Nice to see you back at it! Once my fire truck gets done I gotta get back at my A.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks, nice to get to work on it again!
After much pushing, pulling and bending the fenders are on. Still working on getting a better fit.
Time for an update. Slowly getting stuff done. Roof wood in. More work to get perfect door fit. Chopped it 3 inches. Re-skinned the deck lid. Aftermarket skin was too wide and the wrong contour. Lots of cutting, welding and shinker stretcher work to get it to fit. This weeks project is getting the rear fenders straight.
Rear fenders metal worked and rust repaired. Back on the car for a test fit.
Used a 65 mustang roof to fill the hole. It will get covered like a stock roof. The steel will just make things a little more solid.
What did you use to fill the roof?
I wouldn't worry about it. I built my frame by setting it up on jack stands. Tacked 1×1 angle from side to side to support 2 big block heads in the back, same in front, except 2 small block heads. Then proceeded to z and box the frame on my garage floor.
Sheez. ..I should have looked at the date. ...sorry.
sure looks great. love the stance and I can feel the 60s vibe.
1965 Mustang Coupe
The coupe looks great!
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