dual point conversion

so i have my 303 olds and a 303 olds dual point set.is this just a bolt in and gap the points deal?would there need to be two condencers and coils as well ?do you just bridge the wires on the points together too?is it worth it?never delt with these before its just an old nos part i got from a box of stuff.any advice would help.thanks

trying to keep it as period as possible so do not wanna go electric ignition.

 

Any of the dual point conversions for stock distributors that I've seen have a jumper wire between the two contact sets, and still use a single coil and condenser. The only exception to what I've just said are the old Mallory Magspark conversions.

 

To add to above; I'd use dwell to set the points, you'll have much better results.

 

When I first bought my Stude powered 34 I saw an NOS Mallory Studebaker dual point conversion kit on Ebay It was cheap so I bought it. (not that many Stude guys) It included 1 of the large Malloy condensers in it's own box that is worth more than the kit cost me.

A dual coil conversion requires a special rotor and dist cap.

Since you can't see it and you probably won't be spinning the engine to the RPMs that benefit from the conversion, I'd put it on the display shelf where mine is still sitting. Others may disagree.

 

I had a 49 olds with a 303 and run it up to 80mph and had no dist brake down of points.Any way 2 points one makes and other brakes for longer dwell.Just a waste of time usless you are having problems.

 

thanks for the advice pretty much what i was thinking just wanted to make sure

 

I hear the period thingy, but there's a limit on that-and this is the limit.
Just get an electronic convert pkg. and install, no dwell thing, condenser, etc.
I did a dual pt. Chevy, "period perfect" car, and I guarantee no one has ever noticed or even asked. The electronic starts, runs, revs better than any points type.
My opinion.
cooger

 

I personally like points, but then I also like to add an electronic triggering box which takes the load off the points and makes them last virtually forever. The trigger box also lasts very well since it is not jam packed inside a hot little distributor.
By the way; if you guys really want a points eliminator kit, MSD now makes one. This seems really promising to me, as I've read on here about Pertronics units occasionally going out.

 

First, make sure the dizzy is good. No conversion will fix a poor curve. Set the points up with the stock gap, then put cardboard between one set and check dwell. Then do the other set. Then both. The dwell on each set should be the stock number, and both should be about 36. They were good in the day, today I use Pertronix with a Pertronix coil to match. Its been in there eleven years, all over the US and raced trouble free.