I am getting ready to put headers and dual exhaust on my stock (other than lowered) 32 Fordor. I am looking for ideas on how to run the tailpipes and have questions on running the pipes through the rear crossmember. I'd like the system to be removable. Any suggestions, pics, etc would be appreciated. Also...any suggestions on mufflers? Or none at all? Here's the car in question... Thanks, Neal
heres pics of mine, they go over the rear end and under the tank. A lot of pepole run them under the frame rails
I'll be watching to see what others suggest, as I know things get a little tight back there with the axle bells, spring, and crossmember (not to mention with it lowered, everything getting closer). I'd vote for no mufflers if you can run the exhaust to the end of the frame horns. I did the exhaust on my '40 in 2", with no muffler, to the tailpan. The car is very comfortable inside, but sounds really nice outside.
Anymore ideas, pics? Will this work to connect the pipes in front of the rear crossmember, so the system is easily removeable? http://www.ravenworksllc.com/browse.cfm/2-exhaust-clamp/4,101.html All I see listed are 2"...and I am planning to run 1-3/4". I guess we could expand it to 2" at the connection... Thanks, Neal
I used the 22" reproduction Smittys and had to get rid of them. Way to quiet for my taste. If sounds are important, go with 1 3/4" tailpipes. I'm 68 so noise is not a desire but the classic flathead sound is. I run the tail pipe above the rear and then angle it down so that it goes over the spring and then turns out to the side where it can be turned back where ever you want it to go. I like them directly under the frame rails. When I first started doing exhaust I used 2" and was always disappointed with the sound. No sounds. I had a customer come in and insist that I run 1 3/4" tail pipes like he had back in the day....bingo the classic flat head sound. A stock 51 Merc. A buddy of mine had me cut off his mufflers and replace with straight tubing. Full tail pipes and it was not that bad. I'd stay away from long mufflers if you want some sounds. I like 2 bolt flanges with a gasket for easy removal. Those band clamps work well but are way to modern for my taste. I'm anal about authentic parts so they don't work for me. Flanges are more work but I'll pay that price.
Tommy - Are you not running the exhaust through the rear crossmember as done originally? I don't think I'd have room to run it over the rear/under the crossmember with my car lowered as much as it is... Neal
No that hole is only for 1 1/2" tubing. and there is none on the pass side. I'm running 4" shackles and the rear hits the frame before it hits the tail pipes. The frame is not Cd. Hold an 18" piece of tubing up to see the angle of the tailpipe from the bend at the top centered above the axle to see the angle as it goes under the rear cross member flange above the curved rear spring. It works on 35 up rear springs also even though the spring is farther back with the straight spring. It's hard to describe with words but with a piece of tubing you can easily see that it will fit. I did it this way on all early Fords with transverse leaves. How did you do it on your 34? 41? no holes in those frames.
That's what they make hole saws and die grinders for... I did find these pics of Myke's chassis... I will have to look at the clearance over the axle and spring a little closer I guess...as I would rather not run it through the crossmember if I don't have to. ...and FYI, my RPU just has short "lakes" pipes that end at the back of the cab, so no tail pipe experience there... Neal
On the '32 tudor I did, the exhaust is 1.75" with short Smithys. It runs from regular headers under the stock K member, then tuck more inward and upward to go over the front of the rear wishbone. The mufflers run kinda close and parallel to the torquetube. The pipes then run straight back and up over the axle just outside the weld on the banjo housings. Once it gets over the axle it turns outward drastically toward the framerails, runs under the spring in front of the gas tank, and then runs the last foot and a half parallel under the rear frame horns. The exhaust guy I used had a horrible time getting his bends to fit since the stock banjo rear and the flattened spring and tube shocks all leave NO ROOM for the pipe. He must have wasted 40 feet of pipe attempting to fit this car. It took six hours. If I had to do it over I'd get some mandrel bends and some straight lengths and do it myself. But maybe you've got a good bender in your town? Myke's chassis looks nice. But I didn't want to cut any new holes in the crossmember. The body's never been off the frame and I couldn't fit myself under there to do it anyway.
what you have described is exactly what I would have to do with my 32 chassis. I decided that it would be better to run some straight lengths and dump it out at a 45 right by the rear tire. when I hit the bucks I'll get the stainless mandrel bends I need to do the over axle setup!
No, but I can’t say I’d recommend doing it my way again. Way too close over the top of the axle. The axle bells have hit the pipe on hard bumps. I’m not sure what the best solution is. It might actually be best to cut another hole in the crossmember and go through those.