Hey everyone, I set up a jig for a model A axle to drop it and it worked perfect!, I dropped the first one 2.75" and reversed the spring eyes on the spring so it will be almost a 4" drop but anyways its freakin bitchin!!! It was a lot easier than I thought but was a little challenging getting it not to pinch!It took me 45 min. to do both sides with only one torch. Thanks "TITUS" for showin a how-to on this!!!!! JG
here are a couple of pics, Its pretty much the same as Titus did! I stole the idea from him! thanks ps.sorry for the shitty pics
How about some pictures of it in operation. Where does the jack go? Does it narrow the king pin holes a fixed amount? Does the camber angle stay the same? Just curious as I was planning on building a jig but mine was a lot more complicated. This looks simple.
Looks cool, but aren't there some heat-treating issues to take care of after the drop is accomplished (to re-temper the steel, or whatever)? How do you deal with that?
What I want to know is what is the "mini" axle sitting in the middle of the jig with the red center? Going to make a drop axle for a little red wagon? Really nice work, especially for a 17 year old kid.
we've been down this road (just since i've been here) about a 100 times....no heat treating needed, just don't quench it and maybe even stick it in some sand to cool even slower... another point.....i'll trust heated and dropped Henry steel ANY day vs. the cast steel super bell that's on my hot rod now.......ok.....debate over.....let's talk jigs and techniques! dude, i don't know why but axle dropping- yourself- is about as cool as it gets.........this IS on my to do list!!! would you care to nab us some better, cleaner shots.....i think most of us are over-complicating this process...... thanks and good job!
I'd like to see it done. It looks like you did a hell of a job. How do you keep the camber and caster the same? Is there another part to the jig?
Thanks for the coments! but soon I will post better shots and better " in progress shots" Me and my buddy Zach dropped a second axle and it was friggin perfect! We are learnin as we go and to do something like this and do it well makes you feel really good because Not many people can do it, and it is pretty bitchin! We are sellin these at $175.oo with your axle or $200.oo with one of ours! We do not include shipping! Jordan Graham (805)350-0433 Zach Fournier (805)331-4844 Thanks for your time, JG ZF
I think I finally "get it" You're jacking under the perch pin boss on the spindle side. The "T" bolt thing runs up the uprights on the other side to hold it and provide the stretch. The two uprights are close together to keep the axle from moving side to side. The uprights are capped to limit the up travel on that end. Am I anywhere close?
only one question then- how did you determine the angle at which the "far side" uprights are canted in at the top?
It is at a 10 degree angle so we measured strait up and put a stop were it has to stop at 2 3/4" as well as the other side has a guage above it that tells you were to stop! Do ya' get it??? JG
..........OK.........debate over ????? Don't think so. But I don't have time to screw with you right now . Have to look at the For Sale and Wanted section. That's more important than debating a bullcrap statement .
good job man, you didnt steel the idea from me (and my buddy Brian) you just seen how we dropped some. glad to see some one else could make some sense out of my bad pics and ramblings! the most important part is that both sides move up equally, then the angles all stay the same. titus
Some metallurgy real quick. Old Ford axles are not heat treated, so just heat them up and do the drop stretch, then slow cool in air. No forced air or anything. On your spring eye reversal, did you heat the spring to do this? If so, that spring WAS heat treated originally and now is not, so your spring will not have the same properties, and could sag or even cause a crack and failure over time. If you did it cold, then no problems. Assuming no drastic overbend or other problems.
With the spring reversal I do NOT use heat because that will screw up the spring steel in many ways, If you look at LOUDPEDALS spring reversing that is how I did it, Thanks again for the coments and thanks to Titus for showing me the ropes! JG
I am missing something here..... it looks like one end of the axle is attached to a Ford spindle assembly.... and the other end is the one being stretched. Does the spindle end pivot or move up in a channel while the other end is worked on? Is there a fixture that I can't see that holds the king pin hole steady while the axle is pushed up the channel?
The bending is done on the spindle side...the other side is free to move up the distance of the desired drop so that camber is not overly changed. The bolt in the perch hole locks the axle width-wise and helps the heated end form consistantly.
I understand the stops, though I can't see them in the pics. I thought the plate on top of the uprights on the "far" side WAS the stop. I also understand the 2 3/4" measured vertically on both ends, just wondered about the cant of the uprights, how did you decide on 10 degrees? Did you somehow decide that 10 degrees over 2 3/4" equalled the amount of stretch you wanted? So your jig is made specifically to drop "A" axles 2 3/4 inches? I'm being so nosy because I want to do this myself on my '34 axle. I gotta go back and re read the other threads on this!
I just received a dropped 32 axle from these two fellows and it's as nice as any I've ever had. I wouldn't hesitate to use their service again.
Why cant the cold end travel straight up?whats with the 10 degrees,and how do you relieve the tension to get the axel out of the jig once it cools?i would think the 10 degrees would narrow the axel width a shade.
I would appreciate it if someone could post clear photo's or a drawing of how the is done, I think I understand, but more info would be helpfull. Thank you
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