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Technical Driveline Failure

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by AVater, Jul 1, 2021.

  1. 37gas
    Joined: May 25, 2013
    Posts: 104

    37gas
    Member

    Take it to a drive shaft shop and have him cut out all the bad weld and reweld it in his lathe. After all aren't drive shafts welded
     
  2. 37gas
    Joined: May 25, 2013
    Posts: 104

    37gas
    Member

    Take it to a driveshaft shop and have him cut out all of the bad weld. Then he can reweld it in his driveshaft welding machine. After all aren't all driveshafts welded?
     
    AVater likes this.
  3. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,443

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    The spline wear is usually caused by rotary broaching, i.e., misalignment some where in the past.
     
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  4. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 3,166

    rusty valley
    Member

    Most drive shaft shops only have a fixture to grab onto a U joint yoke like modern shafts, and can not grab a round shaft end
     
  5. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 11,232

    Petejoe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Youre welcome.
    So far so good. This is an early shaft without the center bearing.
    I can’t see anyway this repair could fail.
     
    AVater likes this.
  6. sdroadster
    Joined: Jul 27, 2006
    Posts: 389

    sdroadster
    Member

    Like 28phonebooth said, those splines are worn. When new, the teeth are the same size through out the length of the coupling. Chances are your pinion shaft is worn too. If so, it wont be long until the pin that locates the coupling to the pinion shears.
     
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  7. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 11,232

    Petejoe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Sdroaster and 28phonebooth,
    Are you referring to my post?
    If so I didn’t see any evidence of chatter or scuff along the edges and surface of the pointed teeth.
    The pinion spline looks perfect.
    It may have been possible the wear happened when the original gear and pinion was in there.
    After flipping the splined driveshaft end and rewelding, the fit felt good and tight.
    Time will tell.
    Thanks for the input.

     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2021

  8. That's possible. It's also possible that the spline adaptor on the driveshaft is soft, causing it to wear faster than a hardened piece would. If you have the chance, get the hardness checked.
     
    Petejoe likes this.
  9. AVater
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,775

    AVater
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    OK, Seems that the posts got mixed up as this is not my coupler: IMG_1100.JPG

    Here's are a couple of pictures of what I am dealing with: First the drive shaft when it was still "attached" to the coupler and pinion. It really wasn't attached as it would spin on the coupler.


    IMG_6740 .JPG

    Below is a picture of my '35 hollow tube style drive shaft from the coupler/pinion end (lower) and another driveshaft coupler mounted to a solid driveshaft(upper)

    IMG_6742.jpg

    Finally a picture of the same two driveshafts showing the length difference with the point being when the weld let loose on the tubular driveshaft, part of the coupler was pushed into the tube.

    IMG_6743.jpg

    Hope this all helps. BTW--I have the tubular shaft at a drive shaft shop now undergoing an "evaluation" More to come on that.

    Thank you all for your help and interest!
     
    warbird1 likes this.
  10. HotRodWorks
    Joined: Dec 6, 2005
    Posts: 354

    HotRodWorks
    Alliance Vendor

    The 10 spline couplers are a larger diameter than the 6 spline coupler. It looks like someone bored the inside of the 10 spline coupler (that the factory had welded to the driveshaft tube) and pressed in the 6 spline coupler. It doesn't even look like they welded it as I wouldn't think it could slide down like that if there was any kind of a weld bead there. That looks like it can be repaired.
     
    AVater likes this.
  11. AVater
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,775

    AVater
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    Quick update: got my driveshaft back repaired. Shop did a nice job. He had the tools to properly line it up and check it out properly. He asked me how long ago was the broken shaft put together. When I told him at least 15 years ago, he was amazed as he noted that despite the fact the machine work was good, the welding was poorly done.
    Put the driveshaft back on, bolted the torque tube on and the apex of the radius rods fastened Saturday. Spring was spread and attached. Always a little tense doing this.
    Sunday decided to clean and adjust brakes to find a small dark spot on the right rear wheel cylinder. :mad:
    A pair of rear wheel cylinders on order.

    More to come.

    596804DA-14F9-489D-B74C-6F9DA07D3312.jpeg

    home built spreader.
    F6317950-683D-4F84-A446-E514CD103E94.jpeg 045BEB78-8186-4C28-8FF0-57A156046156.jpeg

    Brake fluid under the boot.
    DCA1BD1C-AC4A-44A8-8833-79196E8BEF52.jpeg
     
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  12. HotRodWorks
    Joined: Dec 6, 2005
    Posts: 354

    HotRodWorks
    Alliance Vendor

    I'm glad you got the drive shaft fixed. Too bad about the brake cylinder. There always seems to be something. Fun with cars!
     
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  13. AVater
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,775

    AVater
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    Four weeks to the day later I’m happy to say “On the road again”. Seemed like it took forever to far the driveshaft back from the shop (no complaint and happy they were able to take on repairing the driveshaft) and even longer for me to finish up all the bits and pieces of putting this all back together.
    Funny thing is when I stopped by a local garage that specializes in old cars to thank them for the referral to the driveshaft shop, the same flatbed and driver that delivered me home back then was dropping of an OT olds for repair.
    My trip today was short in distance but long on satisfaction. Need to drive a few more miles then re-torque the rear hub nuts.

    9E26ACB8-ABB2-4B3C-9942-EF4CDF06AC8B.jpeg
    Now to remove the dust and give it a good cleaning!
     
  14. good news! Keep driving it.
     
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  15. Big mike 1968
    Joined: Jul 17, 2021
    Posts: 183

    Big mike 1968
    Member

    Good info glad its back on the road.
     
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  16. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 1,194

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    Saw this and thought maybe you all can answer a simple question for me: what is the diameters of the splines? I have a custom made output shaft in a late 50s T10 that was shortened, a lot! Whoever made it removed reverse completely and cut the new output shaft with a 6-spline that is 1 3/8 od. If that matches the diameter of the old Ford 6-spline then I finally found out what coupler to get.

    The T10 was used in a slingshot style dragster many years ago. Shortened I guess to get the engine really close to the rear.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  17. AVater
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,775

    AVater
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    The Ford 6 spline at the universal and pinion appear to be 1 & 1/16 diameter.
    Old Ford transmission input shafts I believe are 1&3/8 but they are 10 spline.

    BBE1DA7A-B937-4331-98FE-D30C5D00B4BD.jpeg

    Stock 3 speed 7F15E9C1-16C9-42ED-A343-46DE63FD8733.jpeg transmission output shaft appears to be 1&3/16
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2021
    ct1932ford and loudbang like this.
  18. BrerHair
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 4,789

    BrerHair
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A beautiful little short story about drive shaft failure and repair. Well done sir. Entertaining and informative.
     
    AVater likes this.

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