Ok for those busted studs that are not coming out with the old welding the nut to it trick, these often discarded cheap drillpress deals can come in handy. Just center punch the stud, dimple with a small bit at the exact center, then drill just smaller than the threads using the drillpress to keep straight and true. A small prick punch and a tap removes whats left, with minimal damage to the original threads.
I can also recommend a set of left handed drill bits for this and a reversable drill. Sometimes when drilling it out with a left handed bit it'll come right out...
Definitely, the last thing you want to do is drill it off center, or break a drill bit off in the hole...
be real carefull if you are going to use ''easy outs''.Contrary to what there named,when you bust one of those buggers off they don't come out easy!
I agree. Heat is one of the most important parts, often omitted. A bolt that is stuck stone solid, BEFORE it is broken off!, would probably have come out given a warm-up with the torch. At a certain temperature, iron oxide converts/shrinks when heated. Rusty threads loosen up as if by majic. Heat the bold head/exposed portion cherry red, then let it cool, under no circumstances try to turn it with it real hot, is't as soft as butter! Go from there. Originally Posted by fiftyv8 An auto parts guy said to me once that he uses an oxy cutting torch on studs stuck in cast iron material by just heating the stud and giving it a shot of the cutting oxygen to blow it out since the oxy will not cut cast iron, but I have never had the guts to try it. 29nash; Don't do this if you aren't proficient with a cutting torch, but Experienced with the cutting torch, you can do this very easily, remembering that the only material that's going to blow is what's hot enough..............'hot enough' being what your eye tells you!
Ive got a buick nail head that has the bolts rusted in that hold the water manifold onto the head. Any one have a good idea on how to get them out without twisting them off? Its pretty hard to get heat in there where you need it. I have put all the pressure on them that I care to with a socket. Maybe try a 3/8 impact? I'm thinking the vibration may help.
The magic mixture of Acetone and Brake Fluid 50-50 mix. along with the heat of 29 Nash and anything will come out. Then the drill and sometimes shocking with an impact air hammer. I really like the idea of the OP clamping the drill press to the block. Thanks Pictures of Ford exhaust bolts removed by heat and the magic mixture.
Great idea 29Nash and also Gas pumper, I use engine oil but your magic mixtures sounds impressive. I will try it next time. For those who dont know it seems that when the hot stud is cooling you sqirt some oil onto it and it is pulled into the threads and tends to break the bond between the wall and the stud. The other method I use alot is to try and well a bolt onto the end of the broken stud and the heat from welding and then turning the bolt probably works about 30%+ of the time. An auto parts guy said to me once that he uses an oxy cutting torch on studs stuck in cast iron material by just heating the stud and giving it a shot of the cutting oxygen to blow it out since the oxy will not cut cast iron, but I have never had the guts to try it. It kinder goes against doing a good clean job with me.
I worked as a fleet mechanic for a long time, when I was a young pup the forman, Fuckin Mike was his name, told me to do that on broken rear axle flange studs. I said no way, you show me. He did and I couldn't believe it. We did it on aluminum and steel axle hubs. It's scary, but it does work. leaves the hole clean enough to run a tap into and the threads are as good as new. Frank
I have had good luck with a torch . Get good and hot then try twisting in a little first before backing out . I have found out it breaks the bond better than just twisting one way . Remember that was how it broke off the first time ! What ever works best for you . Good Luck !
Thanks Frank, I may have the guts to try it next time, just always hoping there is never a next time with broken studs. Although my success rate has improved over the years.
This works, but a word of caution. There is a lot of melted steel flying around when you do this, because it has nowhere to go except up out of the hole you are burning the stud out of. I'd recommend trying it on a junk head or some other worthless casting first as a "learning" experience, to figure out how to do it.....
Ebbsspeed is right, a lot comes out of the hole, and you can't be timid about it. Very violent. Keep the torch head square with the hole, right in the middle.
For a broken bit,tap or EZ out you need to pull the hardness out of the broken piece so you can drill it out as mentioned above. Had a welder pal show me how to do this on my 54 when doing the ECI brake conversion. A tap broke off in the pedal. What you do is heat the broken part up with the torch to red, then bury it in kitty litter to let the heat come down SLOWLY. After an hour or so you can drill out the offending bit. There is also a magnetic drill that steelworkers use, has a plug in and an electromagnet. You position the drill where needed, turn it on and it is STUCK in place while you drill!
I have two of them, I seem to loan them out more than I use them.. they work great on broken head bolts but you need sufficient area for the electromagnet to hold on to or bolt/clamp on a plate for the base to set on.. cc
Just spoke with a buddy of mine who has done a few of these removals also and he say the oxy torch this is a bit violent and he suggests a pilot hole down the center of the stud 1st can be a good idea for beginners like me.
As I mentioned earlier, I had a couple of bolts stuck that hold the water crossover or manifold on to the heads on my Nailhead. It was impossible to get a torch to the bolt where it screws into the head so I torched off the heads of the bolts that were stuck then pulled the manifold off over the studs that were left. I decided to try the heat and wax trick for the first time. I heated the bolt to cherry red as close to the head as I dared then took a candle and stuck it down on the bolt and let some wax melt onto it. Don't know if it was the heat or the combo of heat and wax but both of them screwed right out.