The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by rottenleonard, Jan 8, 2012.
I'd be interested in 6-lug, 5½" to 5-lug, 4¾"
If you're concerned there's little C-clamp-style presses to push them out a little like some types of tie-rod-end tool.
But, really, I suppose somewhere there's a stud that's been so tight that it required bearing/flange-damaging hammering to get the thing out, but I've never found it. Usually there's less force involved than pulling a stuck axle/bearing out of a housing.
A live axle, sometimes called a solid axle, is a type of beam axle suspension system that uses the driveshafts that transmit power to the wheels to connect the wheels laterally so that they move together as a unit.
A live axle consists of a central differential in a single housing that also contains the driveshafts that connect the differential to the driven wheels. The differential is connected to the engine via a swinging drive shaft and a universal joint. The complete assembly may typically be suspended with leaf springs, coil springs or air bags.
Some live axles use trailing arms, semi-trailing arms, Panhard rod, or Watt's linkage to control the vertical and lateral movements of the axle. Others, particularly older vehicles, use Hotchkiss drive Live Axles, in which the leaf springs provide axle location as well as suspension.
As for bashing them out with a hammer and then pulling them in using the threads, neither is really a very good way to go about this. I have seen plenty of studs that took considerable force to get them out and pulling them in by tightening and pulling on the threads weakens the stud. Not a very good way to do things
I do think your jig is a great idea for those that don't have access to machine but I would still pull the axles to use it. JMO
On a 9 inch Ford, say changing from a 5.5 to a 4.5 does the hole in the axel flange to insert your socket to remove the bearing plate end up in the wrong spot for the axle stud ?
Drawing it out on the cad program, it only leaves .070" material between the holes, This might be fine but I don't feel good about it so we are not going to produce them(and maybe there in an engineer on here that could explain why it would or wouldn't work.) Is there still a need for a 5 on 5.5 to Chevy and ford patterns on say c-clip style axles?
We have gotten the first large batch out of the cnc shop and they are up getting threw the black oxide process this week. We have the pricing guide up on the website if anyone wants a preview.
At under a $100 for most and $119 for a "3 pattern" I think you got 'em priced right, and I'm a cheap old bastard.
As far as the "knock it out with a hammer and pull it in with a lug nut" stud replacement goes, I've done at least several hundred cars that way and never had a problem. But then again I don't work on Hondas and Kias.
If the 6 to 5 fixture becomes a reality, I know where you can sell at least 3 of them.
Let us know when they are available
how about changing big ford to small ford or small gm
Thats the 5 on 5.5" pattern previously mentioned, Do you have something other than say an 8 or 9 " ford rear end? as they have a hole in the flange to access the bearing retainer that makes this a no go. However we do want to know if there is an interest in this guide for c-clip style axles, also I haven't gotten around to pulling a old banjo style apart to see if there is any issues using it on them.
The 6 - 5 hole guide is in the works, It will require a different approach as indexing will not work instead we have another plan coming for them, Switching from 4-5 hole is a no-go as the holes simply inter fear with one another.
Crap! I would have been interested in a 4x100 to 5x4.75 one.
Not a bad idea. I saw a guy on the s10 v8 board do a similar thing by cutting the center out of an old cast aluminum wheel (he was re-drilling an 8.8 ford axle/drum to chevy 5 on 4 3/4) that had the bolt pattern he wanted, then machine a drill bit pilot that fit in the lug nut hole on a lathe. This could be helpful for those who dont have access to a lathe.
I want to change the BP on the front hub and drum
One of the best tools I ever bought, a set of transfer punches.
O.K. they are ready to go and the "add to cart" buttons are up on the site, Thanks for all the patience and input, I'll update when there is new models available.
Well, it looks like the 5.5 to chevy and ford small patterns would be pretty popular dispite not being able to be used on non c-clip rearends, I have to send a large number of parts to the plater for black oxide to get a reasonable price, If you had the guide without plating and a $5 dollar discount would that make everyone happy to have a bear metal guide? if so we will run batch of them.
x2 on yes and double yes
6 hole chevy pickup to large gm pattern I think would sell good. Gary
We are making them right now, should be ready the first part of next week.
Hi, I have a 51 Plymouth and I understand that many of the 1940s and 50s mopars have 5 on 4.5 patterns that use left and righthand threades bolts to hold wheels to drums. I would like to see a set that mounts to hub using stock bolts and then offers 5 on 4.5 studs. This would allow me to widen my rear end, utilize nice Chrome lug nuts w right threads and to use Chrome spider kits. Just a thought for you. Also, hole in the center of adapter should be concentric to hub. Cal custom sold these in the day but I like yours better. Good luck. Mike
O.k. We have the 5 on 5 1/2" to 5 on 4 3/4" and 5 on 4 1/2" Guides ready to go!
Thanks for the patience and all the interest!
I want to use the guide to redrill F100 front hubs and drums from 5 on 5-1/2 to 5 on 4-3/4. These drums have an additional set of 1/2" holes centered between the existing lug holes on a 5-1/2" diameter. Thus the new lug holes will significantly overlap these existing extra holes though on the same radial axis. This ends up with the new lug holes looking like unilug slots. Since the drums are hub centric I assume this will not be a problem, either with drilling or final performance, right?
Is the resulting hole diameter compatible with 1/2-20 studs?
how about a 5 x 4" to 5 x 4.5" for the A-Body Mopar guys? My Brother made a drill guide for this the was very handy . . .
I have the same question? Also, how do we get our hamb discount?
If there is an existing hole that it would overlap I would be leary that it will make the drills tend to drift(unless they happen to be on a 5 on 4.75 circle wich I have found before on 40's ford drums) I wouldn't trust the stud to be in a slotted hole, doesn't sound like a good Idea to me and I wouldn't recomend it.
and Yes studs with a 1/2"-20 thread can be used as long as it has a .625" shoulder.
PM me with your regular e-mail. and the guide you want and I will send you an invoice.
A big thanks to all the HAMB'ers that stopped by the booth at the portland swap meet, due to that feedback we will be having some new models available soon.
I'll keep everyone posted!
Nice product. I hope you do well with it. Be sure to give us a head's up if you develop anything for 6-lug.
Separate names with a comma.