Projects Drdave accidentally buys a Model A. Now what?

Thanks for the input guys, I sure appreciate it. Headed out to the shop in a little while to work on reassembly....after I get back from taking the kiddo to the dr for suspected flu. LOL


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Walt
Outsiders CC

 

Didn't get as far as I'd hoped this weekend, but I got the wishbone, spring and axle back under the car. I'm going to have to make a spacer to go between the spring and the mounting plate, but will hold off on that until I set it on the ground one more time to make sure on my final leaf count so I can know how thick a spacer I'll need. Started to put new bearings and races in the brake drums and the old races just didn't want to drive out easy. I had forgotten a tip I saw somewhere on welding a heavy bead around the inside of the race and the shrinkage will loosen it up. Worked slick as snot....I'll never drive another bearing out again. LOL Naturally once the races were out, I just couldn't live with the sticky old grease, so in the parts cleaner the drums and backing plates went. Finished cleaning and painting them yesterday so I think I'm really ready to out things together for real.

Before I left the shop last night, I thought I would slide the brake actuators in the king pins and see how tall of a tab I would have to make to mount them to the spring perch. Like I mentioned earlier, I'm pretty much following @Elrod's set up with a 4 inch dropped axle, reversed eye spring, '32 spindles and '32 spring perches. He had to make some tabs for the brake actuator to be able to mount to spring perch as seen in his pic below.



I slid my brake actuators in and when they were fully in the king pin, they lined right up with the mounting hole at the top of the spring perch. His brake actuators are level and mine are tipped down, so maybe I don't actually have them pushed in, but when I tried to make them level, they really didn't seem seated in the king pin. I'm using '32 king pins, so maybe that's the difference? Ignore the brake rod sticking way out in space and not lined up with the actuator arm...the rod has a bend in it that will need to be straightened. I see no real reason that if everything really lines up and mounts like this why a tipped down actuator would make any real difference...looks to me it rotates and works the same tipped down as it does level....assuming it's in the king pin and hitting the brake rod inside correctly?

 

Hmm no idea. Bet the 32 spindles do have something to do with it though.

As gas as a spacer goes I vote using the removed leafs clipped down for spacers

 

Dave...
I'm not sure about the angled brake actuator either, I used Model A king pin's and '32 spindles in mine. I didn't have as much drop in the axle as you do though.


As far as the spring spacer, I just cut the removed leaf or leaf's to about 6". 3 " on either side of the center bolt hole.
Looking at the pictures, you seem to have more king pin angle then Elrod's or mine.

 

Reading some today between patients and I think it boils down to differences between the '32 and the A kingpins...must be. Question will be if the slot for the retaining bolt will line up and put the king pin in the right spot to load the thrust bearing. If that works out, I think I might be golden and just got blessed with everything lining up. Also need to make sure I have enough clearance for the tie rod. I think I'm going to without having to flip the ball on the spindle to the bottom...we will see.

I thought about cutting the left over leaves for spacers, but since everything is all essentially bolt in, I hated to cut the left over leaves when they could be swapped back in to make it all stock if I ever ended up selling it and someone wanted to put it back "the way it belongs." LOL

 

I have seen spacers made from 1/4" flat stock. I guess two inches wide.

Phil

 

You’ll throw those extra leaves away because your tired of walking around them before someone puts that pack back to stock lol

 

True enough Tim, true enough. Lol


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I got an A spring and rear cross member in my 34 and the cross member keeps the leaves all pointed in the right direction...no clamps needed.

 

Well, curiosity got the better of me, so I popped out one of the A king pins to compare with the new ‘32’s I have. The slot for the retaining bolt is the same distance from the shoulder on both, so that’s good. Next I put the brake actuator in both and sure enough, when seated fully, it’s pretty much 90 degrees on the A and tipped down on the ‘32. @FLAT-TOP BOB checked an original ‘32 for me last night and the brake actuators are level. So, either there is a difference in the king pin angle when installed on a ‘32 axle or the ‘32 kingpins I have are cut at a weird angle at the actuator seat. No matter since it appears they will work fine and dandy tipped down and line up perfect with the spring perch mount. I double checked the actuator travel on both and it’s the same as well as put the brake pin in to make sure the actuator moves it properly. Looks like I just plain got blessed with the combination of parts I’ve ended up with for everything to line right up....so long as the tie rod clears (yet to be confirmed lol).



Thanks for the info on your set up @Rocky...very helpful!!

 

Glad to see that it's going to work.

 

Welp, rookie note to self: not only are the cups on '32 kingpins at a different angle compared to A's horizontally, but also rotationally. Put the kingpin retaining bolts in this morning and the cups were rotated too far forward (or backwards when I swapped them to see) for the brake actuators to be in line with the axle and thus the spring perches. Bwa, bwa, bwaaaaah. Fortunately, my A kingpins are in good shape, so all is not lost....I'll just have make the extension tabs like everyone else at the top of the spring perch.

 

I mean if you don’t have to take it back apart three times are you even trying lol

 

LOL Right? I have at least one more take apart and put back together left to go. Putting the front end mostly together to be able to set it down on the ground, roll it outside and check the drop to see if I need to add or remove any leaves on the spring and to double check the clearance on the tie rod. If all checks out, then it's time to nail it all down.

 

Should be ready to cruise by the time I’m in town next

 

....so long as you aren’t planning on being here in the next month or so. Lol


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Normally late August

 

Phew! Should have phase I sorted out by then with no trouble.....I'll just have to try hard to not tear it apart for phase 2 (top, interior, paint) LOL

 

Mock up #417 is a success I think. #416 was just a little too low (I can’t believe I would ever say such a thing), but there wasn’t going to be enough travel and I think the shocks would hit the fenders. So, I added back the second leaf from the bottom and that put me up 3/4 of an inch and made all the difference. That puts me at 8.5 inches down total from stock. Now to put it all together for real then swap the rear spring.

I don’t have the clearance to flip the ball ends for the tie rods to the bottom of the steering arms like the other guys who have done this set up have done. Leaving them on top the tie rod doesn’t clear the motor. Flipping them to the bottom and I’m too low to be on top of the wishbone. Debating in my head heating and bending the steering arms vs dropping the tie rod in the middle to clear the motor has me leaning towards dropping the tie rod. I figure if I mess it up, it’s easier to replace a tie rod than spindles. Moving forward....

 

Could use dropped tie rod ends?

Also keep in mind that suspension is only going to “squish” about 1.5” at most

 

Man that is looking good!

 

Well, I'm sitting here researching that right now and just re-read your post about your new tie rod and saw the dropped ends. I could ream the bottoms of the steering arms like I intended to flip the balls and use dropped arms on the bottom and run the tie rod under the wish bone. I was also wondering if I used a straight tie rod on top if that would give me the room I need on top of the wish bone but under the engine. Thinking a regular tie rod would be shorter in height than the stock ball, but I don't think it will be enough. I need quick and easy, so dropped tie rod on the bottom I suspect is the winner. LOL

 

Does it make sense to get the rear down where you want it, before making a firm decision on the tie rod?

Phil

 

Those original A tie rods were a thin wall tube with plugs in the ends. Be careful.

 

Well, looks like I may have worried a bit too early. Went ahead and reamed the arms in the bottom side and for grins tried to see if the tie rod would go on. I am right on top of the wish bone on the left and have 1/4 in clearance on the right and clears everything else lock to lock. I think just a tweak to move the arms up a smidge should make it good. Whew!!

 

If you just need a hair more clearance, ream that hole a hair more. Easier than bending the arm. Check clearance on full lock-to-lock though.

 

Have any patients ever whined about grease under the fingernails..?? Just wondering..

 

I don't worry too much about my dentist's fingernails, he wears rubber gloves. But if he came at my mouth smelling like vintage transmission oil I'd probably have to send him away.