This is good advice, but I'd do it after getting a few runs in at a test-n-tune so that you can practice the things that you found effective.
Install a micro switch on the clutch pedal arm to cut the power from button to the line lock when clutch is fully engaged. Don't have to think about releasing the button with your hand while releasing the clutch with your foot at the same time, (One less thing to worry about making happen during a run)
I bet it will be a great match-up. Both stick cars will even things up. You won't need all the suggestions below for one match up, but I bet you'll get hooked. I run similar 12.60 to 12.80 with 2900 lb 40 coupe with a 410 small block, Super T-10, 3.89 gear and Towel City recaps. In my opinion modern track prep is really good and hard on parts especially stick cars I've replaced everything behind the flywheel.....(broke a low first gear ratio super t-10, broke an axle on a GM 10 bolt, twisted off the Moroso leaf springs mounts. Beefed things up with a nine inch, 3.89 posi, boxed leaf spring mounts, new super T10, bellhousing, driveshaft loop. I run the cheaters slicks at about 20 lbs, they are a radial casing. Next will be a line lock, and try some good shocks. What is your first gear ratio with the TKO600? I bet it has a pretty low gear, and you'll risk going up in smoke with the cheater slicks. I think you'll want to try easing it out. Maybe try 2500 RPM launch and work your way up from there, and you'll need to grab 2nd really quick. Good fabrication on the rear locating method? I see you have leaf springs... I do as well and had Moroso axle pads fold up. I'm using Cal Tracs which may put more leverage on things than slapper bars so I went to plated axle mounts, and beefy lowering blocks. 1350 u-joints with no grease zerks are a good idea. Driveshaft loop? Scattershield? (Required at Joplin and just a good thing in general. Clutch activated neutral safety switch? ( This was required at Joplin) Catch can? Tracks appreciate if you run straight water. And yes leave on the last yellow...Takes a long time for light to hit your eye to signal your foot to drop the clutch, for the clutch to turn the dif, to rotate the tire and break the beam! Wish you were closer, I'd like to race the winner!
Providing both cars have equal power and weigh about the same the race would be won or lost in the first 60 ft. Put most of your effort into a good start, the other 1260 ft. is just hitting your shifts on cue. As far as cutting a good, bad or great light that takes lots of practice and really nobody here can tell you how to achieve that because no one knows how hard your car will hit the tire. No doubt it will take more than a Saturday night to figure it all out. Lots of Saturday nights!
Ton of good advise you've been offered. Only thing I'd add is, if it's your first experience with slicks, practice, practice, practice the launch (especially being a stick car!) It's a whole different ballgame than street tires. Drag races are won at the starting line for the most part. (Oh, and bring some extra parts....)
I asked my Husband this! His reply..........Cheat! You can spend $500+ on mods to improve your car , or you can spend $500 bribing the guys in the tower so your DYO is more favorable. Or you can "take it on the chin" and spend the $$$ on beers afterwards. Being a Road Racer he said even "Lewis Hamilton had a 1st lap" Have fun
No additional advice but my ‘33 5w ran 12.27 @ 110 mph at Lions. It was a stock 325 hp 396 with an L88 cam, 4 spd, 3.55 gears and 10.00x15 M&H slicks. I used to drive it to and from the track and just drop the mufflers when I got there. Seems pretty similar, so if your car is running well it should be a good race. Like they said, the area you need to practice most will be staging and leaving the starting line. What fun..... Good luck! Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
1. Beat him off the start line. As in the Christmas tree with the lights to start the race. 2. Aggressively race your engine hoping to intimidate or startle the other guy.
It will be difficult to beat him at the tree if he's been down the track multiple times and you've never done it so just go have fun. If he's use to a full tree, ask for a pro tree, that will even things up a little. One thing I've seen multiple times is once you put sticky tires on a car, you are likely to find your weakest part in your drivetrain. The more passes you make, the more likely you'll find that week link. Things may not break on the first trip but as you learn how to leave the line, you start becoming harder on parts. It can get expensive.
I see you're running a Hemi with 2x4s and a manual. Not sure what your rear gear is or if you have a posi or not, but you might consider making a few passes before you put the slicks on to get a feel for it. The skinny bias plies will spin before you break anything, but let you get a feel for launching hard. Then once you know the staging and launching drill, try the slicks. Another consideration is track prep. My local track likes the VHT, so it's pretty sticky – traction is very good – not at all like launching on the street. If you find you're slow on the reaction, you can stage deep – that's rolling far enough in to turn off the first staging light. I have a similar set up – mild 354, 2x4s, T5, and a nine inch with a 4.11 posi and 31 inch tires. I don't drive through the water box and don't do a burnout because the tires are just too expensive to burn up. Plus, they're so skinny that a burnout probably isn't going to help anyway. When I light the second staging light, I load the drivetrain – taking the slack out of the drive shaft and rear end by slipping the clutch slightly with the brakes on. I'm pretty good on the light (lots of practice) and I launch at about 2,000 RPM with a good bit of wheel spin in first and second. I've purchased a set of Towel City cheaters and have them on the car, but have yet to make any passes. They're a little shorter than the bias plies at 29.5, so I'll effectively lower my rear gear ratio. That should equal quicker acceleration and more RPM through the traps. As others have said practice, practice, practice. My best pass in my car with the bias plies and no tune was 14.08 @ 97 MPH in the quarter. I hope to get into the 13s at over a hundred this spring. This video was a 14.11 pass that shows my launch and considerable wheel spin for your reference.
Wing it in the staging lanes. Roll up, stage and stand on it. 9 out of 10 times your opponent will jump and you win before you ever leave. from what I understand its an old Swamp Rat trick.
I always wing it once after the burn out while approaching the stage beams, cleans the plugs from the rich mix (load up) it got from getting off throttle quick.
Yup, got to get into my Bubble , usually start this in staging lanes before crossing the red line, about 3 cars ahead of heading to the burn out box. Helmet and seat belts on and strapped, switches and gauges checked, no distractions, game face on in your bubble.
"What is your first gear ratio with the TKO600? I bet it has a pretty low gear, and you'll risk going up in smoke with the cheater slicks. I think you'll want to try easing it out. Maybe try 2500 RPM launch and work your way up from there, and you'll need to grab 2nd really quick. " Depending on tire diameter, car weight and the 2nd gear ratio you have, you may want to test a few 2nd gear launches at higher RPM..... - EM
You’re going to have a lot of fun. I drag raced a bit in the 1970s then again a bit last year. I was very nervous last year - been a long time, not my car (that was the best part!), didn’t want to screw up. Everything on this thread is true - butterflies, burn out, staging, reaction, don’t miss a gear, don’t break anything, don’t wreck., etc. Here’s even more reality: the track officials were very helpful, it was a breeze, and hot damn how fun was that! I made back-to-back passes and would have done way more except we had three drivers and we all drove that day. You (53 Hemi) heard the story from Tom already; just wanted to share it with the others. Definitely let us know how it all goes. You’ve got quite a following here! By the way, he’s racing my brother.
Hey! Ok, I'm back in town and getting a few little things sorted out. My trans has a first gear ratio of 2.87:1 I mounted the slicks yesterday and found a quiet place to launch it a couple of times. To my surprise, slipping the clutch at 2,000 rpm with about 35psi in the tires, the car launched pretty hard with very little wheel spin. I forsee some broken parts in my future! Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Might want to remove or find some less restrictive air cleaners for the race. What I have is overkill, but my home track is gravel in the pits, dust every where and sticky slicks kicking up the gravel stones.
I had actually ordered a set of velocity stacks from Summit, but I never bothered to measure, and they were too wide to fit on my intake... Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
One thing that happen to me last time going through tech were my valvestems. NO rubber valvestems. They let me race that evening but told me to get them changed to steel for the next time you come out.
I'm concerned about my rubber fuel lines passing tech, as well. They run from my fuel block on the firewall to my carbs. But honestly, right now my biggest concern is my rear u-joint. My trans yoke and drive shaft are all 1330, but the pinion on my differential is 1310. I'm not going to change anything now, but I'm mentally prepared for it to break. My frame has an x-member in it and my driveshaft sits comfortably in it; I think that will supersede a driveshaft loop? Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Might be possible to double stack using a 2nd set same as existing filters, I stacked on another set of the Summit filters along with using longer threaded rod air cleaner studs.
Just a thought, are those slicks radials? Looks like your front tires are bias plys. They typically don't play well together and can get really hairy at speed, even on the highway. I've had mixed radial/bias setups that would swap lanes on ya without notice, just driving down the road! BTW, my '33 Ply PD coupe has a 331 Hemi and a LaSalle 3 spd. Not done enough to drive it yet but should be fun! Best of luck in the race! Dave
Be careful, this is how it all starts. One innocent drag rage and the next thing you know, you're addicted.
Lol , best of luck and above all have a great time! Lots of great advice from a lot of great people, I know first hand that James {saltflats} and Norb {tickey boo} know what they are talking about! Not from racing them { I admit to being insane , but not stupid! } But from years of watching them run at the Meltdown Drags at Byron Il. And again have fun, even if the beer ends up on you it is still one of the best times you can have with clothes on! Larry