I think you may have to resort to the brute force approach because I fear the finesse method of gently working the handle back & forth doesn't seem to have much merit. I fail to see any place to clamp the vice grips to help grasp a arm of any type. HRP
Yup same product just in can. I prefer it over the aerosol as there is less waste. Sounds like as HRP said looks like some brute force may be necessary. Sent via Illinois Bell Telephone Company's Car Radiotelephone
Yer a funny guy but novices may not realize you are kidding. The OP should use flat pry bars to eliminate the possibility of damage
Emoticons my friend,,emoticons,,,,,I would think most guy,,especially the younger guys are very familiar with the meanings,,,If not,,that's really when the fun begins! But in reality,,old farts without computer skills may totally miss the humor,,so yeah,a flat bar would be advisable. HRP
No I can't get my hands in there. Its only 3 inches wide if I'm lucky, plus the closest access hole big enough to get my arm in is quite a ways away. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App! View attachment 2068744 This is the type of work I do in the daytime so I have a little experience. Lol. I'm just trying to avoid any unnecessary damage to her!
http://www.rbmindustrialsupplies.co...-Rost-Off-Ice---400ml-Rust-Removal-Spray.html . heat the mother,cool it down with rost off ,heat the mother ,cool it down with rost off .dont do anything hasty
Maybe we should come over. From here it looks like the inner panel could be removed to access the latch assembly? Stupid question, but I notice that at least one side is keyed, could they be locked as opposed to stuck? I say this because they really don't look to be in that bad of condition to be stuck that tight.
yeah yer rite. I am old and I have opened so many of those doors that I can not understand why he hasnt pried them open yet., It only takes a few seconds and doesnt hurt anything, Every one of the doors on my 1940 pickups were stuck but after you open the door, you can get the latches out and get them functioning on the workbench.
No the inner panel cannot be removed. The screw in the upper corner is for a trim piece. Yes they could be locked.I tried to remove the cylinder but it wouldn't pull completely out either. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
if u had a working lock in your hand itd be a lot easier to figure which part of the lock to pry on to open it or to unlock it. see if u can beg steal or borrow one.i treat any vehicle from that era as precious.they dont make them like that anymore
No the inner panel cannot be removed. The screw in the upper corner is for a trim piece. Yes they could be locked.I tried to remove the cylinder but it wouldn't pull completely out either. Yup I would love to have a wotking sample to figure it out with but I run solo so nobody to get one from.I to treat them like fine china. 64' sdan,what are you referring to on your question about what are u missing? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Three of the screws hold the latch, but there are two additional ones trapped between the door & a pillar. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Is there not a way to get a flat bar in between the door and a pillar, to get them separated enough to open the door without damaging anything? I would think that you should be able to spread the gap enough to get the latch past the striker plate to get it to swing open and get to the remaining screws? Is this what you were suggesting HRP and 1964countrysedan?
Yeah,there are probably screws on the face of the latch that can only me accessed with the door open. HRP
That's exactly the problem. If it was a damaged door I would just pry it til it opened. But I highly doubt there are many replacement doors for a 27 essex avalible! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
wire brush, spray with liquid wrench, and tap around on them with a hammer, or a metal object and keep spraying let sit over nite. tap on them again and spray, from the inside of car try to move it with screwdriver and keep spraying takes a while but it will come free.
The window regulators from Model A Fords should work in those doors and quarter panels. My Essex 2door didn't have latch problems so I can't offer any more on that. Sometimes it just takes time and tons of patience to get to the moment of opening.
Maybe you could jack one front wheel up off the ground to introduce "twist" in the body and then try and pry the latch to move from the top window opening.
OK,,another thought for what it's worth,,Take a big pair of Vice Grips and clamp then on the head of the pin running through the Hinge and wiggle them back and forth while you tap the pliers from the bottom knocking it up. Make sure the hinge is soaked in whatever penetration oil you choose,, If you can get the pin far enough to be above the body get out the old 1/2" drill,clamp it on the head of the pin and set it to reverse and hopefully back the pin out. HRP
Swade41 , essex have real ridged frames unlike a ford from the same time. Jacking a corner up will have zero effect. I believe they are locked. Does anyone know how to trigger the unlock on them? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
You show in your pics that you can move your inside handle right? If so, the inside handle should be pulled toward you while in the seated position in the car to unlock, while pulling the inside handle back try opening the outside handle at the same time. I had a similar problem with a 34 plymouth that would lock itself every time the door shut and it was a broken lock spring
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