I bought the hinge pin remover that Eastwood and a few others sell. Works great on new hinges but just bends on original hinges. Save your bucks on that one.
one is to heat cherry red with acy/o2 torch and drive out with pin punch.good for parts cars and rusty relics grim for painted and finished cars. bob drake makes a hinge pin puller.
Yhea, bought one a few years back, first the pins that went into the tool bent-made some out of drill bits and the tool bent at the top ,must of been made in china. I guess its back to the drills and punch.
The original KRW tool had a forged steel body, no flexing there. I've never seen a modern replacement that did the trick like those ones. Again...we have gotten what we've been willing to pay for over the last 20 years...junk.
What worked fairly well last time was drilling the head of the pin just under size of the serrations and stepping down a size and drilling into the pin a little farther than using a punch to drive it out, but my eyesight is'nt what it use to be.
I used a puller from Mac's, I had ordered from Drake but was (still is?) on backorder.... Judging by the pictures, the Mac's puller looks just like the Drake puller though. For my very, very, very, stuck hinge pins, the puller worked great, no bending or flexing. The puller did contact the sides of the door when I was torquing that bastard, IMO it would be hard to keep it from damaging the paint on a finished car if the pins were as stuck as they were on my car.
Yes mine came from drake, I may try it again after I try to grid it back into shape, maybe my last set where pins from hell, but I think the puller is not heat treted its just to soft.
Yes I would, but I turned my botles in got tired of paying rent because I did,nt use them that much. Than here I am.
I use a socket, a c-clamp, and a bolt or whatever I can find to press the pin. Last time I used a torx drill bit because all the bolts I had lying around bent on me. The hard part was lining it up so that the part I was using to press the pin wouldn't come scooting out. This worked on 2 hinges so far and this was after I couldn't get one out with the torch and punch method.
Good luck getting (actually keeping it in shape once bent!) that thing back into shape! I will have to say that my pins were probably about the limit that the tool would have handled. I was damn impressed with the tool because it is is the only thing that had ever worked in the many long years I had owned the car. I was close to useing a torch but was trying to avoid it....
Ok! I'm Gonna Tell one of My Tool Secrets. I Best Door Hinge Puller in my Opinion is: Herbrand #822. It was made In the Early 1940's. It's Basic Designed is forcing Screw Principle & Exerts a Straight Pushing Pressure that Forces the Corroded Pin to Break Loose. The All tread Screw has A Hexagon Head. It Sets left of the Tool Steel Block Body. The Block Body is in 2 Pieces Male/Female. As, the Hexagon Nut is Turned, it forces a Driving Pin, up into The Car Door Hinge, Forcing the Pin, up & Out. There are 3 Size Pilots pins, 15/64, 17/64, & 19/64. There are 3 lengths of Pilots, Short, Medium, & Long, for a Total of 9 Forcing Pins. There's 3 Size Removable Bushing Sizes 37/64, 17/32, & 15/32. The Various Size Hinge Pin Heads, You Start With the Shortest Pin, then the Medium Length Pin,& Finally the Longest Length Pin to force out the Door Pin. The Capacity is 2-1/4" to 5-1/2". A Friend had a KRW Door Hinge Puller (1936 Krw Catalog) I Didn't like it, as, the Herbrand is Easier to Use! BigDTexasKid Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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