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Technical Door #1 or Door #2

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bchctybob, Aug 24, 2020.

  1. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 3,015

    bchctybob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Body work hell continues on my Buick powered Morris Minor woody. I found two complete doors on CL for a reasonable price so I grabbed them. My doors are ok but they leave a lot to be desired. Somewhere along the way the bottoms have been replaced - like 10" of the bottom, using the step and overlap process. While the gap at the front fender is ok, the gap at the rear is close to 1/2". Hmmm. I hate adding to the edges. The new (used) doors fit better with better gaps. Seems like a cinch; put the new doors on.....
    Here's where the decision gets harder. I stripped the new doors and in a few places where the paint had chipped off there are some rust spots. I haven't poked at them to see if they will go through but not being a body man I've never addressed this kind of thing before. Patch panels, yes. Spot rust, no. Do I treat it with Rust Mort, maybe skim coat with filler and move on or weld in little patches?
    Look at the pictures and tell me which doors you would use. This is a cruise night car not a Ridler contender.
    Door #1 - came with the car, overlap repair, excessive gap at the B pillar.
    IMG_E2662.JPG The surgery; stepped and overlapped.
    IMG_2663.JPG Door #2 from CL, note the spots along the bottom
    IMG_E2657.JPG Surface rust??? or worse
    IMG_E2660.JPG a few more....
    IMG_E2661.JPG
     
  2. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 5,398

    41rodderz
    Member
    from Oregon

    Sand the rust spots down and see where that leads to.
     
  3. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,995

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Those look like rust from the inside out. I would look on the inside of the doors, clean, weld up small holes, spot blast the rest, coat the inside with POR 15, self etching prime the outside and use a little filler. It's either that or weld up and adjust the other door.

    It seems like it would be hard to find doors for the Traveler.
     
    Baumi likes this.
  4. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 3,015

    bchctybob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That IS pretty well sanded, but I'll hit the spots with the little 2" disc and see what happens.
    That's why I jumped on the ones in CL, and they were sorta local. It's hard to see down there on the inside because of the crazy shape but it looks pretty clean in there. I forgot about the spot blast idea, I may just hook up the blast tank I bought years ago and never used! Where did I put that thing.......
     

  5. Baumi
    Joined: Jan 28, 2003
    Posts: 2,743

    Baumi
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    the black spots are rusted thin from the inside, you can only guess how thin the rest of the door bottom is. You´d need to find a way to inhibit the rust from the inside, unless you´d most likely have bubbles under your new paint in a few years. I´d most likely use #1 and adjust the gap or #2 and replace the thin rusted door bottom...
     
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  6. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 5,374

    stanlow69
    Member
    from red oak

    Use door number 1 to repair door number 2, or vise-versa. Scan0691.jpg Scan0740.jpg Scan0741.jpg
     
  7. Mike VV
    Joined: Sep 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,347

    Mike VV
    Member
    from SoCal

    I used a POR 15 type inhibitor on the battery tray of my 67 Chevy II that has very similar rust, only larger as you can imagine being under the battery.
    Sanded with 180 paper, brushed on the inhibitor, let it dry until black, sanded lightly (400) to get rid of the bumps, painted with Krylon.
    For the outside, you'd want a smoother surface than I did..!

    As you know, I owned the car about 6 years after installing the V-6 (same time I painted the engine compartment).

    Never showed any signs of rust through.

    Mike
     
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  8. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 3,015

    bchctybob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I guess I’ll work both ends against the middle. I’ll finish stripping the old primer, put the original doors back on and see if a 1/8” shim under the hinges closes up the gap at the B pillar enough without looking bad at the front fender. I guess I can’t expect new car gaps from an old British car.
    I’ll also poke at the rust spots and try to look inside the other doors with mirrors to get a better assessment of the rust.
    It’s been 100 degrees and smoky here and I’m working outside so progress is a little slow. I stripped the roof and four doors and it’s all sitting out so of course, I woke up to the sound of thunder, lightning and rain..... and we all know rain is superfood for rust and weeds.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  9. 98Racer
    Joined: May 17, 2005
    Posts: 27

    98Racer
    Member

    American Stripping in Sacramento does metal spray to repair the rust you show in the doors. Might be worth a call. There is a guy on Facebook that has "tons" of Morris parts in Richmond.
     
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  10. Shine a bright light in the doors and look for any light coming through. If there are pin holes then just spot weld, grind if necessary, rust treat, fill if needed and done. Remember to rust treat the inside of the doors to stop it if that is where it started from.
     
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  11. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,995

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Maybe chop out the inner structure and blast it out.
     
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  12. lumpy 63
    Joined: Aug 2, 2010
    Posts: 1,415

    lumpy 63
    Member

    Bob , I'm convinced you have A.D.D. What's happening with the olds powered roadster?:D
     
    kidcampbell71 and bchctybob like this.
  13. jimpopper
    Joined: Feb 3, 2013
    Posts: 115

    jimpopper
    Member

    For that door with rust in the bottom, stand it in a tray of vinegar for a while to dissolve the rust from the pits. Lightly peen in any small pinholes. Epoxy Prime and then fill the holes with jb weld quick. Sand and reprime as needed. No distortion and a lasting repair if epoxy is applied in and out.
     
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  14. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 3,015

    bchctybob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A little update; I made shims and reinstalled the passenger door that came with the car. The gaps are acceptable but as the door latches, the lower hinge halves contact each other making it necessary to force the door closed.??? Something’s amiss. The other door doesn’t do that.
    On the “new” doors, since the bottom panel (facing the ground) of both doors was poorly replaced sometime in the past I cut out a 3”x6” piece in the center and looked inside. There’s rust pitting but no through holes. BTW the metal in these doors is typical heavy old car stuff.
    So, do I wire brush the exposed area and just apply POR15 before welding in the new bottom patch? Or should I sandblast the area? I believe the POR15 and other rust treatments say not to remove all of the rust, just the loose rust.
    I’ll take some pictures tomorrow.
    Here’s a question: what thread did Morris use for the hinge screws? It looks like 5/16 unf but it’s not, and it’s not an M8 either. Could they be Whitworth? I need a few.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     

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