Working on an old LaSalle, for an adventure this fall. My brother got this car in the 1980s, and started working on it, but stopped. He says the engine would not turn, so he pulled a bunch of parts off it including one head, and never did anything else. I got the car hauled down to my place about 25 years ago, and it's sat in so-so covered storage since then. The plan was to swap in a newer Caddy motor, but that never happened. Now that we have a reason to get it going, with it's original engine, it's time to get to work. We pulled the motor, since it was already almost completely disconnected. Two head bolts had broke when he pulled the first head, and three more broke off when we pulled the other one. But there was not water or rusty in the side that still had the head on it, and the side that did not, was not as bad as it could have been. I was able to pull 6 of the pistons, then removed the crank and drove the other two in. I eventually got the rings off the the pistons, only braking two top rings in the process. The cylinders honed out pretty nice, no taper, and they were already bored .030. The bearings and crank and cam look nice, the crank is .010 already, and plan is to reuse everything we possibly can. But the valves that were open to the environment for all that time were kind of rusty looking. Fortunately it's a flathead, so the valve seat is not the lowest point in the ports. This means it didn't store water against the valve seats, so they will clean up easily. I got to modify my spring compressor to get the valves out, the bottom end of the spring and the keepers are hidden away pretty well under there. Only one of the valves was stuck, and it didn't take much tapping to get it out. First I put a couple valves in the lathe and dragged a file across the face, to see what they looked like. The first couple exhaust valves I tried seemed to have a low spot, so I decided it needed a valve job. I recalled having read an old South Bend lathe book about doing various engine machining operations, so I googled it, and found this The South Bend Method for Refacing Valves in the Lathe - Bulletin No 86 If it was good enough in 1925, it ought to be good enough for a 1942 engine that has to last 5000 miles, right? Hmmm....maybe, maybe not. But I figured I'd give it a try. I also had an old old tube of valve grinding compound, so I could lap them and see how the contact looks when I'm done. Anyways, here's a before picture of a couple valves and seats, and an after picture of a couple (different) valves and seats. I think it'll work. For a little while, at least. note that since the engine had been rebuilt not too long before all this happened, the seats are still nice and narrow. If you are working on a typical worn out engine, the seats will be way too wide, and will need to be touched up with a seat grinder or reamer. But I was able to "grind" the valves enough to get this thing going again, without spending any money.