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Technical DOH! Broken Dipstick Tube Chevy 230 I6

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by scootermcrad, Sep 15, 2014.

  1. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,372

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well crap... First rodeo with a Chevy inline 6. Truck has a 230. Was poking around under the hood and accidentally whopped my dipstick. Appears I broke the dipstick tube at the block.

    Which way does the tube come out? Does it need to be pressed out to the pan side, or pulled up and out?

    I see a replacement tube part number 3951600. Is this correct for a Chevy 230? Anything I need to know about installing this?

    Thanks for any input!

    S
     
  2. inline 292
    Joined: Aug 25, 2006
    Posts: 296

    inline 292
    Member

    It pulls UP. There is a rolled bulge in it to stop & locate it as it's pushed into the block if it's like any other tube I've seen.
     
  3. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,372

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Okay. Good. Maybe I can get it out without dropping the pan.

    I'm assuming for the rolled bulge, you mean it would have one that would sit on the top of the block surface so it can't drop in any further (similar to most Chevy V8's). I don't recall this tube have that. Pretty much just a tube.

    Tips on getting it out since it's flush in the block? Thread the ID and use a screw to get it out? Bubble gum and bailing wire? Harsh language?

    Here's the replacement I found. Probably the same for many...
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-3951600/overview/year/1964/make/chevrolet/model/c10-pickup
     
  4. Vimtage Iron
    Joined: Feb 28, 2010
    Posts: 550

    Vimtage Iron
    Member

    If you have room around the engine make up a little jig that will catch the lip of the tube after its inserted in the tube on the end of a slide hammer and pull it out,drilling and tapping will leave pieces floating in the oil,if all else fails just drive the piece thru it won't hurt anything in the bottom of the pan.
     

  5. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,372

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Probably going to end up dropping the pan anyway, just to give the rotating assembly a once-over, and an oil change is in store as well. I'll get in there and take a closer look and weigh my options.

    THANKS!
     
  6. I've had luck with a sharp awl between the hole and tube, enough to ident it a bit. Then hammer in (lightly) a screwdriver and twist it out. The slide hammer should work better though.
     
  7. smoked1
    Joined: Sep 19, 2010
    Posts: 123

    smoked1

    I love them 235's I have two of em! Pull it up. I've converted mine to full flow oiling also ,an easy mod. The guy's over at the stove bolt website have a lot of info on these engines. Nothing like getting 16 mpg! Good luck.
     
  8. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,372

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I've heard a lot more about the 235's. I know very little about the 230's. I think they may be the same platform as the 292's, but even that is a guess. Just learning about these. Not sure of the overall condition of mine, either. I've got about as far as pulling the carb off to rebuild it, degreased it, and of course broke the dipstick tube. HA!
     
  9. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,372

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'll see if this is an option. Would be great if this was a possibility, actually.
     
  10. I just had this problem with an off topic engine. I managed to start/jam a tap in the tube just enough to get it to pull out. The tube isn't usually too tight in the block. Pushing it down into the pan also works, if you are pulling the pan anyway.
    Just a note on Chevy 6s. 230s and 250s are vary similar. (bore or stroke is the same) 292 is a physically larger engine and all by itself.
     
  11. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 8,670

    belair
    Member

    The 230 is the pre-cursor to the 250 and 292. It is a "better" engine than the 235. Better bottom end combustion chambers and valve train(SBC).
     
  12. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,372

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    YES! That was it. The 230 and 250 were the same platform. Same bore, different stroke? Or maybe it was the bore... Can't remember.
     
  13. smoked1
    Joined: Sep 19, 2010
    Posts: 123

    smoked1

    well my 235s are tough as nails never had a problem with the bottom ends. thanks for the info though!
     
  14. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 11,967

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    The 230, 250 & 292 are the same family. As noted, the 230 & 250 are near twins. The 292 has a taller deck block and the 292 distributor and/or fuel pump location differs from the other two.
    The 230/250/292 heads will fit any block, as the block length is the same. Aftermarket performance manifolds interchange among them, except for the mid '70s 250 with the integral intake/head casting.

    Leo Santucci has a performance book on these engines, probably available from Motorbooks.

    Ray
     
  15. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,372

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Neat! I'll look for that book. Great info! THANKS!

    EDIT:
    Is this it?
    http://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-Inl...8&qid=1410874867&sr=1-1&keywords=Leo+Santucci
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2014
  16. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,372

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Can anyone verify that tube part number, 3951600? Is this correct? The number pops up everywhere as being the right one, but doesn't actually list the 230 or 250. Only slightly later V8's.
     
  17. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 11,967

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Yes, that is the book I was suggesting ......lots of detailed information contained therein.
     

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