!!!!DANG!!!! After lurking all this time I knew HAMB was the place to post my question… >Don't scrape it with your fingernail for at least 2 weeks. TWO WEEKS!!!! Wow…that is a long time for paint to cure A boner says>Sounds like you followed directions Yes…that is the problem. >did you allow enough time for primer to dry before top coat? It might help to let primer really dry good, and then scuff up the primer to give it good key for the top coat. No, I thought it was a good thing to apply the paint on top of the primer while the primer was still tacky so as to make the bond better. Was this my fatal flaw in my process??? john worden says>This plus use wax and grease remover instead of lacquer thinner and then a fast evaporating cleaner such as PPG DX 330 prior to primer. I have historically just used lacquer thinner…strike two in my process. 325w says>'ve used the gear clamp clamping the can to the saws all blade. Sounds like fun. I’ve been attaching my rattle cans to a chain saw blade with less than desirable results?!?!?! Slammed said something however I cannot seem to get past the avatar…BTW nice tattoo Fortynut says> …lots of good stuff…then…epoxy paints in a spray can are a different story, for another day. I mostly spray engine enamel and that was my frustration yesterday. Does engine enamel (not talking about the super high heat stuff that is good up to 2000 F) need to be baked on? I have been using it for chassis parts in addition to the various engine brackets. Lothiandon1940 says>Lots of great suggestions guys, but I really think that they've been forced by the EPA to change something in the paint formulas for spray cans over the years. I cannot in any way substantiate that theory but something seems to have changed. I agree…in the past I do not remember this issue and that is what sparked my question. Also…does it matter what state you buy the paint. Here in California perhaps all we can get is water color based, free range, locally produced, soy paint. >oldcarguygazok says>You know what really sucks!your half way through the can when it shits itself. It is not supposed to do that??? >theHIGHLANDER says> etch prime, wait 30min, paint. Thickness should be kept to an absolute minimum. OK…so what is “etch” primer? Where can I find it in spray can form? I have been trying to use the same manufacturer for the primer and top coat so that the paint will not negatively react. Also is etch primer heat tolerant? reyn says>I bought an old stove for 5 dollars about 20 years ago and have it in the garage. As soon as the last coat of paint is on , set or hang them in the oven for a half hour at 275 degrees. … I built an extension on the stove and can get double the size pieces in. Let me know when you are going on vacation and I will swing by and appropriate your oven…got any pictures of it??? Blasted says>When you blast metal it brings up the felt. It looks like micro steel wool. If you lightly sand it you will see it disappear quickly. Never paint nonsanded metal if it has been blasted. Even welding on fresh blasted metal will cause a green glow. That is the felt burning off. Good stuff…I kinda thought that rough-ish texture was a good thing for the paint to adhere to. BTW…kinda ironic your user name is “blasted”…was “sanded” already taken??? Primeisnotacrime says>Especially in CA with the C.A.R.B. regulations. I'm surprised they even allow the use of over the counter spray paint. I'm sure if there was Krylon in a water based form, that would be the only paint allowed. When I bought the cans I asked for spray can paint that “sticks well to freeway overpasses, street signs, and railroad cars”. The girls (with no expression on her face) reads the back of the can and says “yes this should work”. Welcome to California. Thanks Ya'All!!!