I am interested in hearing from others who have used this product and any comments they might have about it. Thanks Jimbo
I haven't however I know lots of people that have.. yes it works awesome! moisture does cure it. the biggest warning I have for you is COVER UP!! this stuff is damn near impossible to get off your skin...
i used this on my mustang and i live on a dirt road it holds up great but keep off of skin as it Will not come off
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63136 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73346 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=150076 If you type in: site:jalopyjournal.com POR-15 on google it will bring up 100's of threads on the HAMB asking about using it and other rust coatings on the market
In the fall of 2009 we painted the dump boxs on our town trucks with por The first truck it worked fine but the 2nd truck it did not stick and peeled off in 2-3 months. I did talk to the original owner of the company who has since stuck out on his own again. He told me he left because the company had subcontracted the mixing of the product and they now had O gaulity control causing a lot of problems. His new company is called KBS coatings and his website is www.KBSCOATINGS.com
Magnet Paints Chassis Saver works well, also. My paint store carries it, so I haven't ever tried POR15. But it's the same thing! A cardboard box with CS in it holds water like a bucket, once dry!
I've used por 15 with good results but it takes better to a rough surface and as far as getting it off your hands no problem, use a little laquer thinner or wait 2 or 3 weeks and the oils in your skin will lift it. It WILL permanently seal the lid to the can if you slop it at all.
It only works when you have rust,it traps the rust under the paint so that the rust can't expand,if there is no moisture there is no rust.Many companies make the same type of coatings now.Don't get it on something you want to unbolt it will break the binding.I once used a product named Conquest which turns the rust into iron-oxide it was advertised as a molecular binder,once this is applied you can paint over it.Used on 50 ford undercarriage and ten years later still looks good.
i used their gas tank sealer and it was crap. used it in an old vintage go-kart tank and discovered the por-15 had came off and was nice and chunky in my gas. i wouldnt use them ever again. if used for rust on something not IN somethign theres rust-mort. it turns rust black and i like it.
POR makes the BEST gas tank sealer I have ever found. I tried others but found out how good POR tank sealer is and have been using it on many many car, trucks tractors and motorcycles for about 25 years
I am a proffesional painter, i used it on my chevelle floor after sanding, cleaning and following the instructions. The paint dried for a couple weeks. I purposeley let some water get on the freshley painted floor, I had surface rust come back thru the paint like it was a spray bomb job. I feel it's just glossy advertizing and hype. I'll never use it again.
I've used it and it's great. Two cars (undercarriages) done and both are holding up very well. The first one is about 5 years old now, and showing like it's just been painted - and this car is used a lot, and not cleaned underneath. I've also had very good luck with the gas tank sealer, two different applications and both are still holding up! I'd recommend it without hesitation.
i dissagree, they make the best huh? it was the biggest waste of money i have had. that crap got everywere after it let go
Erick, yes !!!!!!!!!!! You betta beleive it does too. I ve patched gasoline tanks with it and it does indeed work ........... e-mail if nessesary ! scrubba
you guys go right ahead and put it in your gas tanks. you seem to have your mind made up and dont want to listen to anyone so..
agreed, iv only used rust mort in little cracks i cant realy get to. wich is different than the por-15 i have use to boot. poor-15 seamed to been a thick coating, it was just crap.
dare i say you didnt use it exactly like it said on the can? what steps did you take when you used it?.....because when used in fuel tanks its a multi step process. i cant imagine how something that dries as hard as powdercoating and can virtually be struck with a hammer without damage would just come off in chunks.
yes it was multi step, i did it just how it told me to. i cant remember the details come on it was maybe 8 years ago. and it did exactly that. came out in chunks ,fuel tank started leaking on top of the engine, almost cought fire,...glad it was just a 60's emmick go-kart and not a car.
I have had very good luck with it. I still dont believe in painting over rust so I sand blast the piece or area then paint it with por-15 There MUST be a rough porous surface for it to cling to. New smooth shiny metal forget it. They also sell a metal etch for new metal. Forget it. I found sand or bead blasting works best. the rougher the better
I used on two bike tanks one was rusted out and the POR worked well,other was pretty clean the paint chips off.I used a tank sealer called pream it works but you have to use all there steps cleaning preprep and sealer,By the time I finished I could have bought a solid used tank for almost the same money.
well a few (5 or 6) years ago i was working on a 1965 stratochief. before i realized it was worth more as parts then restored. i removed all the rust i could and used metal prep so i could remove as much rust from the floors as possible. I put down the por 15 because i live in Canada and lots of snow gets into the car. well long story short for at least the last year or two the floor pans have been filled with water ( i do take the water out... sometimes) and have seen sunlight. Still minus a little fading, no cracking or chipping or rust. and still rock hard unless you take a screw driver and hammer to it.
Worked great for the underside of the floor pans of my 40 coupe. It was slow to dry so I followed the directions and thru a bucket of water on the floor under the car. I guess it needs humidity to cure. It set up hard in no time after that.