Have my middle '90s crate chevy 350 apart because it overheated and started sucking water down. It has maybe a hundred thousand miles on it. I hate to put it back together and have the timing chain go soon after. Should I change the chain only, chain and big gear or chain big and small gear. It's just for a half ton truck with auto trans. Nothing racing or anything. And what brand gaskets would you use for best head seal? Thanks Gary
since its open , I would and replace the whole set ( chain and gears ) with a set like thats in there no need for a roller chain the link belt style will last longer
With a hundred thousand miles on it.The cam and lifter could be well worn also. You might think on replacing them too.
I agree, think about the amount of work it will take to replace it now versus what it will take when the motor is in the car. For what you are going to spend it's worth it.
In all the SBC rebuilds I have done I always have to drop the pan to get the timing cover off and then hopefully get the right front seal and silicone the corners. It does not appear that you dropped the pan but then it's a late "90's crate engine so maybe there's something I missed. I always had an issue in my 40 pickup and now my '40 coupe with front oil leaks, however after a new pan the right 1 pc gasket (I believe from Jegs) the right amount of silicone it stop pissing oil, the cross member is really tight there even if you jack up the engine (AFTER removing the distributor CAP) it is a little easier. Good luck! Oh as Boyd Wylie said a new cam and lifters might be a good idea, but use the right high Zinc oil for break in otherwise its a new cam...... & lifters
Cheap and easy to do it at this stage. 40.00 for cloyes set. If it over heated and losing water I'd guess a head gasket? So Why's the timing cover off? Almost have to drop the pan to get the cover on. - unless you're doing all the gaskets? If the timing cover and oil pan are off I almost always do a chain and pump.
You know it might be a late '90s crate 350. The timing cover came right off. I've done this backyard stuff off and on all my life and I'm 72 but I'm far from an expert and I just want pointers. Thanks for all so far. Gives me more to think about. Years ago I replaced a water pump on a 60,000 mile 302 Montego with all the stuff on front. A few miles later the timing slipped. Nylon gear. I had never heard of such a thing then. Just trying to cover all the bases. Best place to buy the parts? Napa? How can I tell if the head boots are bad? Stretched.
Depending on the year of the engine, they may be torque to yield bolts so they stretch and work like a spring to hold the head tight. Those type of bolts aren't re-used. Usually the gasket set will tell you to use new bolts. If it's a roller lifter engine, the cam and lifters are probably fine. Many of these newer engines run 200,000 even 300,000 miles.
It has a mechanical fuel pump on it. The roller cam engines found '87-on did not have a lobe on the cam to drive the fuel pump pushrod, and later on the pushrod hole disappeared all together.
Replace it now, Gary, while you can get at it. All that stuff is relatively cheap, compared to doing it the hard way. Any auto parts store should have the parts.