The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Dog_Patch, Aug 12, 2014.
14 hours each way. Lost some time because I had us driving East for an hour and then it occurred that Texas is West
looks like a great time, cool cars. For a minute there I was wondering if ya'll roadtripped in Tim's truck! Love the new helmet art
savannah,,, Thanks for helping me figure that out, For a while i thought that Kim & Tinker
had rode out there in the bed of Tim's truck and was wondering how that worked out
I see Momma and the Kids made the trip. Kimmary looks good in the Scorpion! Glad to see you made the most of the rain out, Carp.
Just being "curious George the cat" here but.......IF you had a catastrophic engine failure, would the pressurized accumulator "push out" an extra 2 quarts of oil on the track?! Shirley........there must be some kinda safe guard to prevent this.
A MARINE got lost say it isn't so. You weren't a second John by any chance were you
It took some convincing but she finally stopped banging on the back window about Shreveport - must have passed out or something.
It's gonna go somewhere - better have the diaper tight.
Tim was too polite - I said "come pick me up, its on your way ...... " (He lives 2 hours WEST of me) Then we go even farther East and he's like "You know Austin is in Texas right?" I'm like "yeah its to the left when you look at a map so take that interstate left."
I thought you said weast!! Lol. Holy parts Batman! I need to get to a swap like that for some front runners!!
Well it's like this. To have a wet sump pan with enough volume to keep the pick up covered you probably need about 9 quarts minimum. With the accusump you could run a 6 quart pan plus 3 in the accumulator for a total of 9 anyways. 90% of bottom end failures come from starving the bearings and the rod grabs the crank, snaps, then holes the block and the party is over. If you can eliminate most of the bearing failures with pressurized oil it will help the track have fewer clean ups.
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Just occurred to me that it would also be possible for someone who is sharp in electrical stuff to devise a sensor that would detect the engine has stopped turning, and trigger a solenoid operated valve to shut off the oil flow from the accumulator quickly.
Hopefully it won’t rain this time
I’ll post a few more later - this is for @dirty old man
I never got a scratch! Clutch exploded going to 3rd. the front motor plate broke from the shock of the clutch letting go then the engine tipped forward allowing or breaking bolts at the housing. Now it’s tipped forward and the disc wiggled out - near as I can tell. Disc went 30 foot in the air. Just stuck it on the cowl because nobody believed it
Good luck with the rebuild. Thanks for the pics.
OMFG!!! Glad you're ok! Someone was lookin' out for you!
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DAM and Double DAM. glad you are ok
Glad no one was hurt. Parts can be replaced.
a fan from the west coast,
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Good to know your ok
When's the next race times a ticking.
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I would not have thought a steel bellhousing would just unzip like that.
From the pic it looks like the flange that the trans butts up to pealed away from the bell. Glad your ok.
Tony, glad you're OK, was shown these pics last night by somebody in the group down at RWYB,, think maybe Brad. This ain't the first blow up I've seen, but I agree with Bad Banana, this ain't just centrifugal force overcoming tensile strength! All that twisting of heavy metal "like a pretzel" indicates, IMO, a misalignment that caused a quite spectacular and unique failure that you're lucky to have escaped uninjured.
Also makes me even more determined to tear down my roadster again to hunt for whatever I've got wrong that's causing problems with shifting at times and ruined the only decent run I had going yesterday @ RWYB.. Don't want to see any more like this one, especially on mine!
Glad you're ok Tony.
I have to agree with DOM
Brad Ocock picked up on what I was saying on FB and put into American English very eloquently
Dave Funnell is on the right track.
The NASCAR guys do this a step beyond the drag racers--we tend to check the X and Y axis (loosely speaking) as Tony is showing with the dial indicator in the center register... This is centering the bellhousing up/down, side/side on the block registered off the crank... but we never check what I'll call the Z-axis--the surface of the bellhousing's face to the OTHER centerline of the crank.
Take the dial indicator, attach it to the crank flange and rotate it around the bellhousing's flat mounting surface and see if that surface has any runout against the crank's centerline. You're checking the vertical plane of the bellhousing's surface this way... we always forget that plane, but it's just as important as up/down and side-to-side.
Paint buildup on the back of the block or the mounting surfaces of the trans will cause it to be off a few thousandths, as will machining tolerances of the block and the bell, so the block-side and trans-side mounting surfaces should be stripped of paint, either with aircraft stripper or a wire wheel--sanding will remove material.
The NASCAR teams use thin shim washers between the bell and the block at the bolt holes to correct any problem.
For centering, they machine a dildo that fits the crank's pilot hole at one end, and the center register hole of the
bellhousing at the other; then they over-bore the dowel holes on the bellhousing so there's a lot of slop there: Center the bellhousing to the crank using the dildo, then lay washers on the bellhousing flange that fit snugly over the dowels and tack weld them to the bellhousing: The washers become the new dowel holes in the bellhousing, and the bellhousing is now permanently registered to that block, and will go back the exact right spot every time it's removed to service the clutch.
Then they shim the pitch at the bolt holes and mark it on the bellhousing so they know what shims to put back every time.
But until there is a full inspection and assessment of the parts this is only a guess
Damn man sure am glad you got thru this OK. Don Garlits only can wish he had been this lucky...
Tony, glad you are ok! Question: did it have a steel block plate between the front of the bellhousing and the rear of the adapter? I don't see it in the picture.
The quick time bells don't come with one.
Everyone i have bought came with 1.
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