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Technical Dodge Pilothouse... kiwi help needed.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kiwijeff, Sep 18, 2018.

  1. Ray has a 1960/61 Australian Pilot house Dodge truck. He needed a puller to get rear drums off, so i borrowed one, mine was to small, and went to help him remove drums today. First one took some doing, but it came off ok.
    Second one was even easier, although it made a bang. Closer inspection showed we didnt take a small bolt out, but the puller didnt care, it just ripped that ol drum straight off, and busted a couple of chunks out with it.
    So we need another drum. Getting one from outside New Zealand is an option, but naturally we would like to find one closer to home.
    Thanks for any help fellas. Rays a good ol bastard. Hes an old glass guy, and he never lets me pay him for cutting glass, so i was happy to help when he told me he needed a puller. Didnt quite go to plan.
    Heres some pics. Its no show stopper, its just Rays old Dodge. 20180918_135847.jpg 20180918_135729.jpg 20180918_135753.jpg 20180918_135732.jpg
     
  2. Those are eleven inch drums.
    Dodge stopped making these trucks in America in the fifties, so Ray tells me, but these Aussy ones were made down here using left over parts, into the sixties.
     
  3. stubbsrodandcustom
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,300

    stubbsrodandcustom
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Spring tx

    Man, that's going to be a super hard one to find. Post up a pic of the rear end that's under it, if its an early 8.75 you may be able to take a 10" backing plate and drums and bolt on with little issues. You can find some of the mid late 60s trucks had 11" brakes and most were 2.5" wide with finned drums so even there you would have to change backing plates. 8.75 mopars are pretty plentiful around most old car yards, If its the 7.25 then the hunt gets a lot smaller.
     
    kiwijeff likes this.
  4. Bearcat_V8
    Joined: Sep 21, 2011
    Posts: 386

    Bearcat_V8
    Member
    from Dexter, MI

    Oddly enough, Rockauto lists an 11" drum for your truck. Reasonable price but shipping down under would probably be a showstopper. I would think you could find one locally if it is still listed with RA.

    upload_2018-9-18_7-49-29.png
     
    kiwijeff likes this.

  5. I bet it will still work. It looks pretty thick where its broken. If that center is cast just glue the broken parts in it and put it back together if its steel it could be welded. Not ideal. A good used or new would be preferred. But as long as the outer portion where the brake shoes contact isn't cracked it should work Ok.
     
  6. I can’t help with the brake drum but that truck is cool as hell, would love to see more pictures


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    kiwijeff likes this.
  7. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,659

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    Trying to figure out what you did. The Chrysler products I am familiar with, had removable hubs on a tapered shaft up to 1964 or so. You use a big puller to pull the hub and drum, by bolting the puller to the wheel bolts. This wouldn't break the drum. It is also possible to take off just the drum if you cut the rivets holding it to the hub. But then the drum just slides off, no puller required.

    Did you somehow use a puller that goes out around the outside of the drum? And rip the drum off without removing the rivets or bolts leaving the hub on the shaft? That is the only way I can see to wreck the drum but I can't figure why anyone would do such a thing. If that is what you did, I would expect both drums to be warped or bent and useless.
     
    kiwijeff and Old wolf like this.
  8. Bearcat_V8
    Joined: Sep 21, 2011
    Posts: 386

    Bearcat_V8
    Member
    from Dexter, MI

    Rusty, I believe you are right. From what he wrote he probably used a two or three jaw puller to remove the drum instead of a proper hub type puller and remove the hub with the drum.
     
  9. There is a small bolt in the face of the drum. The left sidewas removed before using the two arm puller from back of drum.
    The right side bolt was not removed first.

    Ill take a few more pics when i get back up to Rays.

    Thanks for the replys.
     
  10. I went and took a few pics this afternoon.
    Ray says he's going to sell, so anyone keen on a 61 Dodge Pilothouse Australian right hook version, let me know. He's just rebuilt both rear brakes, just need to sort this drum, and it's good to go. 20180920_170221.jpg 20180920_170350.jpg 20180920_170234.jpg 20180920_170301.jpg 20180920_170320.jpg 20180920_170311.jpg 20180920_170415.jpg
     
  11. There are a couple of Chrysler/dodge only blokes over here you could try. Les Sonter in N.S.W, Antique auto supplies in Adelaide, and I know of another here in Adelaide. Any chance these drums were used on any Chrysler cars? That would open your options up a bit.
     
    kiwijeff likes this.
  12. Thanks, I'll let Ray know. He's on the interwebs, so that makes the hunt easier. The drum is currently headed to a welding genius for possible rebuild. I'll update when I know more.

    Oh, and there are other makes that may fit, he's heard series 3 Landrover Discovery is a possible match, and another make that escapes me right now.
     
  13. classiccarjack
    Joined: Jun 30, 2009
    Posts: 1,465

    classiccarjack
    Member

    That truck looks like a customised Pilothouse truck... And it's a factory export? Wow! What a cool truck!!!

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  14. Ryan Sims
    Joined: May 17, 2021
    Posts: 1

    Ryan Sims

    Hi Kiwijeff, not sure how long ago this post was but I’ve never seen another Dodge pickup similar to mine before. Does Ray still have it?
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Nigel Robson
    Joined: Sep 23, 2021
    Posts: 4

    Nigel Robson

    Hi there....this is a real long shot...... I have an Aussie ute (1/2 ton) version of Ray's truck. Same nose - the double L and R lights. Just got it. A barn find I intend to restore. I'm having real problems finding out information. The engine / gearbox I have are not original. Later chrysler units in poor condition. No instruments. Not sure of the age and the original spec. Aussie vin plate says it's an A1-08E....the E would indicate maybe a '59 based on the information I have found - which may not be correct..........but (if it is) this is not consistent with the twin headlight pack front end. Ryan Sims, Ray, KiwiJeff I'd love to contact you about this......prefer email ([email protected]) if you have the time to contact me and discuss. Anyone else that can help, I'd love to hear from you. Cheers, Nigel (Perth, Western Australia).
     
  16. Nigel Robson
    Joined: Sep 23, 2021
    Posts: 4

    Nigel Robson

    Ryan, I've a similar ute - different tray / rear. I'm struggling to find out information. I've the same nose cone and cab. The photos are of my rolling chassis. I've an engine and gearbox (out of the ute / part dismantled / supplied with the ute. I've just bought it). Engine and gearbox, I am told, are not original by previous owner. I'm trying to find out what the original should be. Also tying to find where I can get good spares.
    Body and chassis are solid - no rot (dry stored for at least 20 years / barn find in WA). Got the doors, all the window glass for doors / cab. Front window is not split screen. have all prop shaft, diff and rear drive. No bench seat or seat frame, no instruments. Got steering wheel / column. Petrol tank there, not sure if good yet, appears solid. Orignal rims but only one Dodge chrome hub. Original chysler austalia limited VIN plate (A1-08E 423). Lots of old rusty parts - mainly part disassembled engine, gearbox, prop shaft, brake parts, brightwork, light units.
    Bought is as I love the style and it isn't rotten. Good basis for a reno. Not looking for original - exterior yes but drive train / steering I want drivable. Not interested in rat/hot rod....no problem with those who do, just not my plan.
    Any chance we can talk? I admit I'll probably not have much I can give you in knowledge (but who know)....probably more me tapping you for information you might have.
    My email is [email protected] if you're happy to contact me.
    Thanks and hope to hear from you.
    Cheers
    Nigel
    DF3.jpg DF3.jpg DF5.jpg DF5.jpg
     
  17. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 4,087

    gene-koning
    Member

    That is a pretty interesting combo of parts you Austi's put together.

    The single piece glass front window would have been a 54 and early 55 on the USA Dodge trucks. The late 55 and on front windows wrapped around the cab corners and had different cabs and doors.

    The hood looks like its from a 48-50 truck, by 51 the USA Dodge hoods didn't have the opening in the front of the hood center and sides. That opening on the hood was filled with a chrome "top grille bar" that bolted to the hood supports on the 48-50 models. I have one of those chrome top grill bars I bought for my 49 I'm not going to use, but I can't even imagine what it would cost to get it to you, or if it would even fit.

    The nose piece with the dual headlights per side would have been a 58 - 60 nose piece on USA trucks, but I don't remember them having the odd shaped grille opening, I think the USA versions were rectangle shaped. A 58-60 hood was a one piece hood on the USA trucks.

    Are the last 2 picture of the bed area? I'd love to see more pictures of that truck. Gene
     
  18. Nigel Robson
    Joined: Sep 23, 2021
    Posts: 4

    Nigel Robson

    Gene,
    Thanks for the post.
    I have a feeling that the Aussie utes (our pick-up trucks) were different, and out of sync with those produced in the USA. The "original manufacture" here in Australia was probably more building a "box of bits" which made up an entire car, sent from North America......in this case, I have read from Dodge Canada (sending to the UK as well as Australia and perhaps other places). I don't think the ute is a mix of bits put together over time. Looking at the patina of the paint on all the panels, it's consistent. There's no previous patchwork of colors showing through. I believe it is, as a body "all panels original". The problem really is finding evidence of what it actually is. After all this time, it's proving very difficult. I'm not helped by the engine / gearbox not seeming to be original....at least according to the original owner they're not and from looking at the numbers on the block, heads (2 BBL carby, possibly 318 V8, probably A series) and gearbox (looks like 64 or later) and other peoples knowledge and a lot of googling it appears to be true....engine and gearbox are not original.
    So, I continue to live in world that lacks clarity for my ute.....why I'm making these posts and reading all the knowledge and advice from the likes of yourself.
    Regards, Nigel
     
  19. Garpo
    Joined: Jul 16, 2016
    Posts: 293

    Garpo

    Early Mopar products made in Australia and New Zealand are a real headache. Due to government imposed tariffs and duties favouring British Commonwealth sources, the local assembly is usually based on Canadian parts.
    There are enough exemptions to make life even more difficult. Chrysler had a plant at Kew in the UK that was often used as a parts source, and just for more fun, some stuff came from a plant in Belgium.
    I have been trying to find bits for a customer with a NZ built 53 Dodge car. Nothing matches the USA product.
    I believe some tooling went to Australia from America (USA or Canada). this probably makes the Aussie models similar to those 3 or 4 years earlier Stateside, but with Australian grille/ trim / lights etc.
    Here we are, a lifetime later, trying to sort this mess.
    Re brake drum, there was a lot of co-operation between Dodge and International in Australia - it is just possible they may have shared the same rear end. Worth a look.
     
    26 T Ford RPU likes this.
  20. If the cab and box are separate, it's not a ute.
     
  21. As Gary said, there was a lot Dodge/International cross over at that time. A mate has a Dodge and an International that are a little latter that have the same body and chassis. I can go go see him if you like.
    You made a nice job on the second one !! JW
     
  22. Nigel Robson
    Joined: Sep 23, 2021
    Posts: 4

    Nigel Robson

    Gene,
    Another photo of the back of the back of the ute. This is a particularly Australian design. It's not like a US pick-up which tends to have the "tray" inside the wheels, with full wheel arches on the outside covering the L and R rear wheels. Not sure this is unique to Australia but it's common here. you get some or all of the wheel arch inside the sides of the bed. Most of the bed of the tray is wood. L and R sides from the inner face of the wheel arch are metal to and including the side walls.
    IMG_6001.jpg IMG_6001.jpg
     

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