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Projects Dodge Pilot house Windshield install

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by iron shaper, Jul 23, 2020.

  1. iron shaper
    Joined: May 23, 2012
    Posts: 21

    iron shaper
    Member
    from Savage, Md

    I am in need of some guidance. I have a 49 Dodge Pilot House truck that I have chopped the top by 3 inches. Now its time to install a windshield. How do I measure for the glass? The weather strip that I have has a one lip locking strip. Does the lock go out or inside? Then there is the center strip which I dont have.
    Also my doors are vent window style, but I would like to install vent less glass in the doors. Do I need regulators to match the glass or can I use the old regulators. I dont think I have to cut the glass , it should fit . Any Help? Thanks
     
  2. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 6,185

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    First you cut the glass, then you chop the top to fit the glass.
     
  3. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 1,830

    1-SHOT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Make patterns out of Masonite check fit then cut glass.
     
    46international likes this.
  4. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 1,902

    gene-koning
    Member

    From what I've seen, the glass is cut the same size as the metal opening around the outside edge (the glass will just pass through the metal opening). The rubber fills the void.
    The lock strip goes on the outside. Of course, both the rubber around the edge, and at the center, as well as the lock strip are all going to have to be cut, unless you laid back the front glass.

    The center strip you don't have mean the rubber part is missing, or you don't have the steel bracket?

    Another thought, maybe you would be better off having the windshield bonded in rather then setting it on a rubber gasket. To bond the glass in, they need a metal surface that the glass can sit on flat, and the glass overlaps the metal surface by 1/2" all around. You will need to make a center piece for the two pieces of glass to rest on and so they can butt up to each other.

    Either way, make your glass patterns out of Masonite, and it must be an exact fit or the glass won't work. A trial run might be a good idea, the Masonite is cheaper to throw away then cut glass is.

    If you want to eliminate the vent window on the doors, you will need to locate doors that were built without the vent windows and get all the window stuff from those doors. Everything is different between the two styles, so you will need everything, including the glass run channels, the regulators, and regulator swing arms, and the window channel that holds the glass at the bottom. That stuff may not be easy to find, you need to look for the stuff from a 48-53 Dodge truck (both a 47 and a 54 are completely different trucks and none of the glass stuff interchanges), but all sizes of 48-53 Dodge (and Fargo) trucks should be the same.

    On your last comment, if you chopped the roof, how is it that you didn't have to cut the top of the doors? And if you cut the op of the doors, how is it that you don't think you need to cut the glass? Gene
     
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  5. iron shaper
    Joined: May 23, 2012
    Posts: 21

    iron shaper
    Member
    from Savage, Md

    Gene
    The door glass I thought would not need cutting, that the window would wind up till it stopped in the top of the door. If I stay with the vent windows I can use my old door glass and just cut and fit the vent window. No, I dont have a center bar for the windshield. This build is a back yard rough custom. I didnt think about just setting the windshield in caulk. I can do that and make a trim bar around the outside edge of the glass. Either way, I think i have a better understanding of what I have to do or what I can do on the windshield and the doors. Thanks Bucky
     
  6. iron shaper
    Joined: May 23, 2012
    Posts: 21

    iron shaper
    Member
    from Savage, Md

    Some pictures of my project so far. started with a 1949 Dodge pilot house truck. installed a 1 ton dually rear, channeled 8", moved cab back 12 ", chopped 3" from top, boxed frame . Power comes from a stock 1972 RB413 w/ 440 heads and a Holly 4150 600 single pump carb. And a 727 3 speed auto tranny. This is my first attempt at a custom rod. I restored a 1931 model A and a 1953 Chevy Belair.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  7. greybeard360
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,481

    greybeard360
    Member

    I would hardly describe that as custom. It looks like something that isn't talked about on this board.
     
    Kiwi 4d, bobss396 and caseywheels like this.
  8. If you don't have that, try Knights of Columbus-ite....
     
  9. leon bee
    Joined: Mar 15, 2017
    Posts: 499

    leon bee
    Member
    from Arkansas!

    You might get some flack after those pics, but I sure like to see somebody getting stuff done.
     
    MO54Frank likes this.
  10. iron shaper
    Joined: May 23, 2012
    Posts: 21

    iron shaper
    Member
    from Savage, Md

    Sounds like I just Shit on someones parade! So you have to have certain types of machines to be able to get advice on techniques that are used on most any rod. So my project is different does that mean I am excluded from all the advice that this site has to offer?


    Yes the Masonite should do fine. I will get a sheet from Lowes, Thanks All, Bucky
     
  11. The Shift Wizard
    Joined: Jan 10, 2017
    Posts: 2,001

    The Shift Wizard
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You can post all the discussions you want how basic stuff can be done. Just don't show any non-traditional aspects of your build. If you didn't read the rules then don't complain about the spankings.
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-h-a-m-b-rules-guidelines.44274/

    There are tons of forums on the 'net covering your style of build. This isn't one of them.
    Bye Felicia.
     
  12. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 1,902

    gene-koning
    Member

    Making a center bar may be a fun challenge, I will have to do that with my truck as well, but I've been fortunate enough to have had one and know what they look like. If you are going to bond the windshield in, all you need it do is weld two pieces of 1/8" thick x 1/2" wide flat steel together along the edge, at the correct angle, and weld or bolt it in place. The make sure the steel is flat and doesn't have any raised boogers.
    When I said "bond the windshield in" I didn't mean with caulk, the caulk you get from a home building supply won't hold up and it won't seal. You need to get the real automotive glass urethane bonding stuff. The urethane is laid out in a bead about 3/16" thick, and the glass is laid on top of the bead. The urethane really grabs the glass tight, where silicone just won't stick to glass well. I think it cost me $200 to have the windshield glass cut and bonded in by a local glass guy. It was cheaper then the glass and a gasket.

    If you have the door glass, I would use it and just bond in the vent glass. with a 3" chop, that vent glass isn't going to be very big, because you shifted the windshield posts back when you did the chop.

    Yea, most here won't like the pictures of your truck. I don't post many pictures of my stuff here, the ones I do post are pretty generic. The information that is available is worth that little inconvenience. If you wish, you can PM me here and I will share what I know, I've done a few of this era Mopar stuff, cars & trucks. Gene
     
  13. iron shaper
    Joined: May 23, 2012
    Posts: 21

    iron shaper
    Member
    from Savage, Md

    Read the rules and understand. Sorry for the outburst.

    Went to Homedepot today and got some Masonite for the windshield patterns. What type glass should be used in the wind shield or any of the windows? Laminated or tempered? I found a glass shop near me, I will call them on Monday.

    Gene, I may be able to fit the vent window in, yes it will be small, but any air helps. Can't hurt to try.
    Thanks to all for the advice. Bucky
     
    leon bee likes this.
  14. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 1,902

    gene-koning
    Member

    You will want laminated safety glass, and I use it for all the windows. It is two pieces of glass with a clear (or tinted) plastic center liner all formed together. Should something hit and break it, the laminated glass will crack, but pretty much stay together.
    Tempered glass will shatter when something hits and breaks it. Gene
     

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