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Do I really need a 7* taper in my split bone mounts?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by evintho, Jul 27, 2012.

  1. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,658

    evintho
    Member

    What the title says. Speedway bone splitting kit w/tierod ends and 3/8" plate for mounts. I drilled a 5/8" hole which the largest part of the tapered rod end fits into. Just a little bit of slop where the narrowest part sits. Sorry for all the dumb questions. I'm learnin' as I go! :eek:
     
  2. metal man
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,949

    metal man
    Member

    Yes. You need more surface area.
     
  3. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    what he said^

    It needs to be able to get slammed sideways and not wallow the hole. It sure does take hard hits when they are used on wishbones....or tie rods
     
  4. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,776

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    The split wishbones kits used to come with a spacer button drilled to fit the early Ford tie rod end taper. After mounting the side plates to the frame you mounted the button to the back side of the plate tightened up the tie rod end and spot welded the button in place. Then take it apart and weld the button all around.
    WHY isn't anything sold complete and ready to install anymore??
     

  5. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    I've made those bungs from round stock; drill a hole, then heat it red, and use a junk tie rod end to shape the taper.

    Piss on speedyway, bring back blacksmithing;)
     
  6. TERPU
    Joined: Jan 2, 2004
    Posts: 2,271

    TERPU
    Member

    Man, I am not the safety police so please don't take this in such a manner. The reason for the taper is twofold.

    One- they add more surface area for a tighter intersection.
    Two- is allows the tightening to provide a snug fit that won't come loose or wallowed to let the tie rod spin until you back the nut off.

    Without the taper the hole just continues to wear and pretty soon the connection becomes loose.

    Please do it right add the taper, it may save your life or better yet somebody else's. $76.00 is cheap to ensure it stays. Not only that but don't be a hack and have some pride in knowing the work was done right. Carry this through the whole build and the car will be something you can be proud of. "Everything you do in life is representation of you. Represent yourself the best you can at all times". - My Grandpa's words not mine but Good Lord man is it true

    If it's for the car in the Avatar it's worth taking your time on, that's one cool ride.




    Tim
     
  7. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,658

    evintho
    Member

    Yep, I kinda thought so.......just wanted to hear it from the pros. Does Speedway or anyone else sell that taper button that pasadenahotrod spoke of?
     
  8. borderboy1971
    Joined: Oct 20, 2008
    Posts: 743

    borderboy1971
    Member
    from Canada

    When I built my model A, I bought a tapered reamer from MAC tool that matches the tie rod taper. I built my own frame tabs, and am ready for the next project.
     
  9. Kirk Hanning
    Joined: Feb 27, 2005
    Posts: 1,603

    Kirk Hanning
    Member

    Speedway sells the 7 degree taper eyelets. They are under shock mounts part#916-36502 $2.99 each for the round eye or 916-36503 $3.99 each for the tab style. I don't know how to link you to them as I'm a computer dummy. Hope this helps
     
  10. You can also make the taper with an old Unibit and a tapered burr on the die grinder. Easy, just sneak up on it. Last ones I did took 20 minutes tops. Unibit gets you close and the burr cleans it up.
     
  11. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,658

    evintho
    Member

  12. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    I can't see why the round one wouldn't work. We used to cut the ends off of spindles, grind them into a round piece, insert it into a hole in the frame or bracket, and weld all the way around it. Presumably, that is what you would be doing too.

    Don
     
  13. Take note that the Speedway round giz is too thick to just weld on the inside of your mounting bracket, the nut won't go on far enough for the cotter pin.

    Easy to weld in a cut off Ford steering arm eye as mentioned above.

    Even used to make the tapered holes with a rat-tail file back in the 60's, before I got better tools.
     
  14. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    Yeah, it is 3/4 inch thick,but if he punches a hole in the bracket as big as the outside diameter of the new bung, and fully welds inside and out, it would end up about the right thickness.

    Don
     
  15. Chuckles Garage
    Joined: Jun 10, 2006
    Posts: 2,366

    Chuckles Garage
    Alliance Vendor

    Surface contact area is your friend.
     
  16. brokenspoke
    Joined: Jul 26, 2005
    Posts: 2,908

    brokenspoke
    Member

    Just cut off the tapered tie rod ends off some old spindels.....
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2012
  17. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,257

    oj
    Member

    It sounds to me like you are welding this into your frame rail? Unless you have raised your front axle (as opposed to having the axle dropped) then you'll need to attach the bones below your frame rail not in the frame rail. The bracket below the split bones kit in speedway would work, Kennys' Hot Rods has a nice one too.
     
  18. LeonsA
    Joined: Jul 17, 2009
    Posts: 11

    LeonsA
    Member
    from Kansas

    Speedway told me the shock bungs would not work as they were too thick for the cotter pin. I did as F&J did. Heated them up and used an old tie rod end taper and a big hammer. Made the taper deeper into the bung and worked well.
     
  19. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    A few seconds with a belt sander would reduce the thickness to where a cotter pin would go in, not a big job.

    Don
     
  20. You could also lap an old taper into the hole with a big drill and some abrasives
     
  21. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,658

    evintho
    Member

    My thoughts exactly! Ordered them last night....they're on the way. I thought about cutting up an old spindle too. Lotsa good suggestions here. It just seemed easier to order the tapered bungs. The price was right, that's for sure! Thanks everyone for all the suggestions and feedback. Rest assured, I'll have more dumb questions! :D
     
  22. It was a good question that netted several great ways to attack the problem!
     
  23. zibo
    Joined: Mar 17, 2002
    Posts: 2,346

    zibo
    Member
    from dago ca

    If you don't want to do the taper,
    than use big heim joints with a 5/8 bolt.
    The doane spencer car used them so it can be considered traditional.
    I'm contemplating doing that to my car when it comes time to rebuild.
    TP
     
  24. butterboy
    Joined: Feb 27, 2006
    Posts: 88

    butterboy
    Member

    I make bungs in the old lathe in the corner of my shop. Drill out the stock to fit the thread of the tierod. Set your compound to 3-1/2 deg and plunge your boring bar in using the cross feed, but that's just how I do it. I like the blacksmith idea
     

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