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Technical Do I need a new steering box or linkage?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Cultleader, Oct 13, 2016.

  1. Cultleader
    Joined: Sep 28, 2016
    Posts: 9

    Cultleader

    Hello I have a 1950 ford 4door and have a good 4-5 inches of play in my steering. Just wondering how I can tell if it's the steering box or a linkage issue or? I was about to order a steering box on the advice of a random person but figured I would get a second opinion before I drop 500 bucks. I am a newb for sure but have some technical apt. Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks
     
  2. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

    There are many pivoting joints on the front end, a small amount of play in each will add up. Get the front end up in the air and have someone turn the wheel back and fourth while you look at all the joints, you will see what needs replacing. The box may need an adjustment as well.
     
  3. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It is probably a combination of all of the front suspension and steering parts.

    Get under the front with a flashlight, and have someone rock the steering wheel to and from the ends of the play, plus a little each way.

    Examine every single movable component for play.
     
  4. Cultleader
    Joined: Sep 28, 2016
    Posts: 9

    Cultleader

    How do I adjust the steering box?
     

  5. 208custom
    Joined: Mar 19, 2006
    Posts: 263

    208custom
    Member

    On top of the box there is a large flathead adjuster bolt with a jam nut. That is the only adjustment I am aware of for these boxes.
     
  6. deucemac
    Joined: Aug 31, 2008
    Posts: 1,483

    deucemac
    Member

    The '49-'51 steering box is an oddball unit, the adjustment is made by loosening the bolts that attach the sector shaft lower extention to the main gear case the bolt holes are slotted and rotation of the extension will cause the sector shaft roller to either move closer or further away for worm gear in the case. It has been many years and I have forgotten which way moves it closer or further away. You will have to experiment some. However, do not do anything to the steering gear UNTIL you have eliminated all looseness I the other steering components. Doing other than that can cause wasted time, money, and possible damage to components or difficulty in steering control If you are not sure, find a local Early Ford V8 club member that is knowledgeable in your model or an old fart front end guy still alive and able to check it out. Front end/steering is not something you want to gamble with. It is straight forward but it either right or the car handles like a safe in a wheelbarrow.
     
  7. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm not well versed in that box so I can't help you there but I would do as the others said and have a helper gently rock the wheel back and forth while you observe the linkage starting with the pitman arm and working out on each side.
    For me it is easier when I have the weight of the vehicle on it's wheels as I did it that way for years on front end racks.. Some times you can watch the pieces and see movement and some times you need to hold the pieces to feel the movement between the pieces. They should move together as a unit if the rod end is tight.
    On the steering box I'd hold the pitman arm while the helper rocks the wheel and you should be able to have and idea of how much movement there is before the arm moves. That is real easy where you can reach up and turn the rag joint on a box but not so easy with the one piece shaft and a helper who may be bored.
     
    Atwater Mike likes this.
  8. I just installed the new steering linkage kit from shoebox central with the better idler on it and oh man what a difference. My idler and every other bushing had flex on it. I thought I was going to have to do the steering box too and went ahead and found a Volvo 140 box, but I don't even need to now. Might want to look into your steering linkage...that's what did it for me on my 51 club coupe. Good luck!


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    joe50olds likes this.
  9. Cultleader
    Joined: Sep 28, 2016
    Posts: 9

    Cultleader

    I was messing with the wheel while the car was on the ground and when turning clockwise it engages almost instantly and wheels start to turn. When going counter clockwise there is a couple inches of play then what feels like a hump or binding then wheels engage and start to turn. I will take your advice and lift the car up and check all the linkage first. Anyone know of any good shops in San Diego?
     
  10. Quick question. Are you planning to change the engine? If so you might want to put in something heavier duty. Some folks have swapped in Volvo units (Jamco?). My '51 car was nearly impossible to steer with the original box and suspension and a heavy hemi motor. Almost twenty years ago, I considered the Volvo box, but ultimately chose an non H.A.M.B. friendly solution (Chubby Chassis with a slow r&p).
     
  11. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,625

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Here's the best plan:
    Jack the car up and place two LARGE blocks of wood under the front tires. Pair of 4" X 12" X 12" on each side, stacked. (2 on each side: will give you 7" of height, weight of car safely on these blocks)

    Now have a friend or enemy exercise the play in steering, whilst looking (and FEELING) each loose joint between outer tie rod ends to cross tie, then watching idler arm go up and down. Now, look carefully at the pitman arm, joined to the sector shaft. (the big one out of the bottom of the steering box) Watch for movement up and down, and shaft side-to-side.

    Adjustment of the steering box is complex: First, the worm end play must be taken up. There is a plate at the end of the box, in line with the steering 'mast'. (steering shaft the wheel is bolted to on the top end)
    After adjusting this end play, (tapered roller bearings, a 4 bolt plate is adjusted by stacking thin gaskets; they used to come in .004", .006", and .008" thicknesses. Might have to make some out of good 'bond' (typing) paper)
    Only after this adjustment is satisfied (or decided to be within spec: push and pull on steering wheel, feeling for slight 'knock', if tight it may be 'O.K.' ) can the 'gap' (lash) be set.
    It is of critical importance this lash adjustment be made LAST, and at neutral position.
    (turn wheel all the way to the right, mark its position. Now, turn it all the way to the left, COUNTING the number of turns. Turn it BACK half the amount and you have center)
    Now you can loosen the lock nut at the top end of the sector shaft, (on top of the box) and turn the screw down until it contacts. (just 'snug')
    Lock the nut.

    Finally, (this could have been first) before you release the bonds on your friend/enemy, have him/her turn the wheel back and forth again, as you watch the suspension at the ends of the 'A' frames (control arms) near the inside of the brake backing plates.
    You are looking for movement in the king pins/trunions.
    If there is excessive movement there, look in the yellow pages for a 'front end/frame shop'. (or 'Frame & Wheel')
    Call and ask about getting king pins/trunions replaced.
    Good hunting.
     

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