There was a set for sale a couple months ago with tires mounted in the classifieds. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I got the same quote from Amanda via email. boy, the prices change regularly enough to send your head into a bit of a spin.
I placed an order for a pair of wheels on Dec. 28th and hadn't heard a word from E-STOPP. I decided to email them yesterday (01/09/2018) to check on status. Within a few hours I had an email with tracking numbers. So, if any of you ordered and haven't heard anything, you might want to check with them for an update. I'm not sure why it took me asking for an update to get them shipped, but at least they're on the way.
I picked up a set locally at the factory last week 5x5.5 bolt circle. Very Nice!! ** Other bolt patterns available.
Hey guys... I picked up a set of 18x5’s for the rear, and found some thing I wanted to run by you all that have purchased these wheels: The hole in center of wheel checks 3.100”, and the hub on my axle is 3.060, which fits my drum ok. I am assuming that the lugnuts are designed to take all the load? Because having .040 thou clearance puts all the lug bolts in shear... let me know if any of you see this on your wheels Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Isly, up until modern times, all wheels were held on with just the lugs/studs. Fitting tight to the hub center was never even dreamed up yet. I don't know how any wheel manufacturer could make them to fit the hundreds of different hub diameters out there nowadays on these hot rods?
Thanks for reply... I know I’m over-thinking it, but I design components every day for living, and I try not to side-load the fasteners, and prefer a key/hub or other similar feature to take majority of the load, and fasteners only hold it down... I’ll quit obsessing over it... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you have a nice smooth side of the hub on your axle sticking out (we don't know what kind of axle you are using), you could turn a collar and press it into the wheel to take up the space. Might want to bore the wheel's hole bigger first to make sure the collar is thick enough.
Alchemy, I was already thinking of it... I was looking online for stainless bearing sleeves, for repairing bad races, pockets, etc... they are Dutchman axles, and have a nice 1/2” tall hub turned in center. Thanks for advice Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Mounted a 255/70r18 Kelly radial on today just to get a look. It’ll do while I save up for Coker’s. Hope to get a pic on the car soon. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
They look good, but if they are a light truck (LT) tire, they might have sidewalls that have so many plies that they are too stiff for a light vehicle, even at a low pressure.
On checking, that appears to be a Kelly Safari Signature tire. It is a light truck tire, and carries a load rating of SL, or 2,469lbs, per tire. That is more than my entire Model A weighs.
You’ve got the specs right, but that’s at 50lbs of pressure. The sidewalls are pretty soft and only two ply. I think with the large diameter and lower pressure they’ll be okay. I’ll let you know when the snow clears... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The 'SL' stands for 'standard load'. It's not a heavy duty truck tire but it is made for a larger vehicle. Drop the air pressure to make it ride right and it'll be fine. Hell on something that light I'd start about 20psi and adjust from there. And, btw, not a bad looking tire at all. I'd run it!