I'm doing a manual disc/disc setup on my 55 Fairlane, front calipes are 81 Camaro, rear are Versailles. I've been told to use anything from 84-86 Mustang SVO master cylinders, to 77 Granada disc/drums w/ the residual valve removed. Kinda wanted somethin that'll fit up to the stock holes on the firewall and work with the factory pushrod. I've done plenty of front disc swaps, but never messed with disc/disc before. Any ideas would be awesome.
Use a 67-72 Mustang 1 in. bore disc/drum cylinder. It is listed for use with a power booster but is the correct bore size and will mount to the bottom studs on your 55. Put the nuts back on the top ones. Your pushrod and boot will work fine.
Do i need to remove the residual valve? Or will the rears get enough pressure to work right? Thanks for the tip, appreciate it
i don't believe that master cylinder has residual valves in it. ECI should be able to confirm/deny that. you will need to ads a 2 lb in the front line and a 10 lb in the rear. when you plumb it, the larger chamber is for the front disc brakes you may also need a proportioning valve in the rear line. why don't you go to ECI's website...it has all the info you need
The Mustang cylinder has a 10 psi RPV in it for the rear drum brakes, leave it there you need it. There is no RPV for the fronts, you don't need it, cylinder is above the calipers. Big reservoir feeds the front brakes. Put a metering valve in the front system so the system works in the correct sequence and thats it! Check our website www.ecihotrodbrakes.com
crap , i missed that too...........nevermind what i said ECIguy.....can you confirm if 67-72 mustang drum/drum master has residuals in it or not? the one i took apart years ago did not , so when i use one i always add them
alright, that makes a little more sense. I'll do a little more research, although i HAVE heard of those masters being used on disc/disc setups....
So I guess that means I can use the 67-72 mustang master and remove the 10 psi valve?? If not, does anyone know of a disc/disc master I can use that is physically close to the Mustang one?
OOOK, called ECI. For one, I defeinetly don't need any inline valves, as long as the master is higher than the calipers. The Vette style master cylinder is probably my best bet, with a 1" bore and no valves built into it. Running a proportioning valve is always a good idea, but is not always needed. I'm gonna try it without the prop. valve, if the rears start locking up, well then i'll put on in. Thanks for the help
Knoxville, Don't bother with the adjustable valve in the rear, anybody who has one will tell you the same thing ,no matter where you set it makes no difference in the way it stops. Put a metering vale in the front and forget a corvette m/c it will NOT bolt up to your firewall-different pattern.
My BOO-BOO thought it said disc/drum system. You can still use the mustang cylinder but you will need to REMOVE OR DISABLE the 10 psi rpv. Easiest way to do that is pull out the seat in the port for the rear brakes, a small slide hammer or a self tapping screw, a pair of vise grips and a big screw driver will do the deed. When you get it out you will see a rubber flapper valve and a small spring. Take them out and tap the seat back in. Make sure no chips in the hole. Install a 2 psi rpv in the rear also. Make sure you adjust the parking brake mechanism on the rear calipers and don't expect much from the rear brakes in an unboosted system, they need a LOT of line pressure to function well. AGAIN my apologies for the bad info.
Wouldn't a Versaille master work? It would be the same as an early Mustang bolt wise ( I have a Granada master on my 67 Mustang)
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