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Technical disc brake swap issue..still got a soft pedal

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Vincentnova, Dec 2, 2018.

  1. jcwilliamsj
    Joined: Feb 17, 2018
    Posts: 11


    may as well hook the rear line directly to the mc. if your pedal is still good drive the car. when you stop hard the rear should try to lock up. if that happens the pv is likely the culprit or you could buy the test kit and check the pressures.
  2. Vincentnova
    Joined: Nov 6, 2015
    Posts: 54


    yes i did
    with only the front line connected to the master cylinder
    no proportioning vavle
    with this pressure gage i get 1300 to 1400psi ( hard push )
    car on wheel car dont stop
    i would like to do a pressure test with the wheels on floor but i cant...the bleeder is very close to the spindle
  3. If you get that pressure at the caliper then you have a friction problem between pads and rotors.

    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
  4. Vincentnova
    Joined: Nov 6, 2015
    Posts: 54


    what are your suggestion ? what should i do? or test?
  5. Make sure the rotors are surfaced properly, and try different pads, make sure everything is clean.

    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
    Vincentnova likes this.
  6. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 10,313


    I to have witnessed this as allot of these "kits" have extremely poor quality brake pads and shoes.
    We have had to remove them and we replace them with Wagner premium brake pads and or shoes.
    Jimhu and Vincentnova like this.
  7. Yeah no shit!
    Should be bouncing you off the windshield.
    Friction surface problem
    54vicky and Vincentnova like this.
  8. 54vicky
    Joined: Dec 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,084


    he is trying to scrape his face off windshield after putting real brake pads on.
  9. Jimhu
    Joined: May 23, 2016
    Posts: 1


    Something no one has mentioned, unless I missed it, is to check the engine vacuum at the brake booster; if low due to blockage, camshaft profile, or vacuum leak (not likely), or cam not installed correctly, clear/ repair vacuum line to booster, ck cam timing, put in a milder cam to get vacuum back, or add a vacuum motor to get the vacuum needed at the booster. A decent vacuum motor is going to run you anywhere from around $300 and up. They are noisey, you get used to it. This is the best fix when due to cam profile. You'll have to decide the approach depending on what you find for low vacuum.
    Without correct vacuum, you can barely get the vehicle to stop even STANDING on that pedal with both feet. Ask me how I know.... when you're approaching that whatever it is in front of you fast and not stopping although you're standing on it, you feel it in strange places!!!!

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
    AHotRod likes this.

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