Trying to get back to getting my wheels running- So I had my 1957 Ford rewired (it's got an '85 5.0 302 and a 5-speed). They used a "painless" kit, but they did not use the Ballast Resistor that came with the kit (not sure why?)- Now, when I try to start it it cranks fine and seems to start but as soon as I let go of the ignition switch it immediately dies. Which, if I'm to understand correctly is usually a sign of a bad ballast resistor, but I also noticed two wires in the ignition module got "hot" (burned). Replaced the ignition module, didn't change anything. The Ballast Resistor used is smaller and wider than the one included in the wiring kit. I also tried using the one included with the kit with no success (left side: included in kit. Right side: Ballast Resistor that was used). My question is how do I trouble-shoot this problem of the motor dying as soon as it starts and how do I figure out which Ballast resistor to get? Thanks!
turn your switch to the run position and check for 12v into the resistor. no voltage means your switch should be checked. Does your module require 12v? if so junk the ballast resistor.
Sounds like it's miswired.... probably at the starter solenoid, possibly at the ignition switch, maybe a bad switch. A bit more info is needed; is this a carbureted motor (not EFI)? OEM '85 ignition? The usual Ford fender apron mounted solenoid? Does the solenoid have a 'S' and 'I' terminal on it?
I get a very dim light when I put the self-powered test light on the Ballast, but that's how it works, right? Lowers the current flow?
Crazy Steve- (love the name man!) It is carb'ed, ignition switch is aftermarket, fender mounted solenoid (with an "S" and a "T") 57 Heap- That's what I was thinking, "why is there a ballast resistor on here...." Wiring terrifies me but I'm pretty sure I'm going to need to learn it here pretty quick...
The resistor mounted on your car is a chyrsler part if you want a duplicate. Your diagnose sounds like you are on the right track. That resistor is usually ruined when cold water hits it. Drill a hole in the back of a sardine can and mount the replacement resistor in it to sheild it from getting wet.
should be 12.5 battery voltage at the input, and "IF" there IS a load on the output, you then see less voltage on output side. hint: the more amp load on any resistor, the lower the output voltage will be. Example: put a tiny dash bulb on one side and the output volts will be very close to input. But put a cooling fan on it, and output volts will drop like a rock.
You should have a ballast resistor with a '85 OEM Ford ignition. And the resistor needs to be 'matched' to the coil, and both matched to the ignition module or module damage can result. That doesn't mean they can't be aftermarket or off another make, but they should be the parts recommended by the manufacturer for that module or the electrical equivalents to the factory parts (same or very close ohms on the resistor and coil primary). Here's a wiring diagram link.... http://www.junkyardgenius.com/jeep/cj503.html (scroll down). The red and white wires out of the module are the ones you need to look at; one of those is misconnected or is missing a connection.
Electronic ignition does not need a ballast resistor. Ballast resistors were used for points once the engine is running to make the points last longer. The S terminal on the stater should supply power to the coil during cranking. Once the engine is running the coil gets its power from the ignition switch. I would check if you are getting power to the coil when your ignition switch is in the run position. If you have points the ballast resistor should be wired into the ignition switch side of the circuit. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Sorry, I meant the I terminal. I should proofread before I hit send not after. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Learn something new every day. I assume the ballast resistor is there for the same reason? To make the module last longer? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If it was mine I would look up a wiring diagram for an '85 5.0 302 and a 5-speed and wire it exactly the way the factory did with the exact same parts including ballast resistor.
Not true... Some aftermarket electronic ignitions don't use ballast resistors but some do, same for factory electronics. If the ignition was originally equipped with a ballast resistor (as his is if it's OEM to the motor), failing to use the ballast resistor will kill the switching electronics (the parts that turn the coil on and off) in the module. Here's an example; I've got a older motorcycle that uses a ballast resistor as OEM. The coil primaries are 1.5 ohm, so is the resistor. The module can withstand the higher coil current while starting, but removing the resistor will kill the module after about 20 minutes of running. The two resistances added together equal 3 ohms (when running), so replacing the coils with ones that have a 3 ohm primary (reducing the switching current in the module) allows you to eliminate the resistor. You can do the same thing with a car, but finding a coil with enough spark energy then becomes the problem. You can get away with this on a bike as each coil only fires two plugs, and only does it every other revolution.
Some electronic distributor set-ups DO require a ballast resistor. Here is a Mallory 12V electronic distributor on an 8BA flathead. In this case the instructions specifically say to install a 1.5 ohm external ballast resistor and use the Mallory correct matching coil. Otherwise, you will shorten the life of the module. Best to check with manufacturer of the unit you are using. Also, install a surge protector as recommended by manufacturer to protect the module from voltage spikes.I painted the resistor black with a magic marker.
The ballast in most cases is bypassed during cranking, so the coil ha Not True -The current to the coil does not switch in the module. The current is switched by the ignition switch. When the ign. switch is in the start position the ballast is bypassed and full voltage is sent to the coil.Once the key is released and left in the on position the current to the coil is switched to run thru the ballast resistor.
Main ignition power to the ignition system is controlled by the switch. Actual switching of the coil on/off (which is what generates the ignition spark) is controlled by either the points or the module if using electronic ignition. The points or module supply the ground to the coil, completing the circuit.
Electronics have a voltage range they work in to much and they are short lived not enough and they shut down. Seventies Chryslers would crank below 10v but no spark to the plugs The idea of the resister is to keep the run voltage to the ignition and the voltage while cranking ( big draw from the starter) about the same.
The subject was the ballast resistor , not ignition spark. There is a term primary and secondary ignition that separate the two.
Whaaa? You made the statement that the module doesn't switch the coil current, so explain how a spark is generated if the module doesn't do that.... I hate seeing misinformation posted about electrical...
Your system is wired wrong,if it runs when the switch is in the start position it is running off of the bypass wire from the starter which should be wire to the hot side of the coil, this is fine but it sounds like your ign switch is not sending 12 volts to the resistor,or the wire from the ign switch is on the start side of the switch instead of the run side.
Ford Dura Spark Ign . Has resistor wire in ORM wiring from Brain Box to coil. Some use the full 12v circuit to start the car , some don't . Ford is as clear as cloudy day on this . I have run Dura Spark with my own wiring at full 12 volt for many miles no issue. I see no reason to run the "ballast" unless you like breakdowns . Put as explained you need to do some investigating of the problem a bit with a test light or volt meter . Pick up coil or points must be in position to supply voltage to the ign coil or nothing can be seen with your test light
I will slowly walk you through my statement--read carefully the part that says current TO the coil-from the ignition switch
You guys are awesome, thank you for the help. Didn't mean to make it a "pissing" match, just trying trying to figure out what's going on... I'll post more pics (if anyone is interested) to show you what I'm dealing with later... hopefully today!
The Jalopy Journal
