Technical Difference in Paints. 1k and 2k enamels, base, urethanes etc

Imron is great, they did a excellent job going to market and they dominate the polyurethane market. That is the standard to which all polyurethane is made. We used their poly to test against. But other brands of poly are Genesis (sherwin), Prism (napa), Imron, Delfleet (ppg), chemspec had one but Axalta (dupont) bought them out, Northstar and Color By Design Inc.
Recoating is fine, needs to be sanded, but no wrinkles. Excellent product, unless you decide to buff it, then you cuss it.... But I am working on a buffing process for polyurethane right now, but that's a different discussion.

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When you use a hardener, you double the life span of the paint. Also when you harden you don't have any tack back issues either. Long oil wouldn't be my choice personally for anything, but it's great that you activate the product 8:1 with a 50% solids activator! Personal preference if it's a solid color, even furniture I have redone for our house, I do 2k polyurethane. Shine last longer than anything else.

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Let me add on the long oil, why my preference wouldn't be long oil, I am a fast painter, so flash time doesn't bother me, but if I were doing because of cost, if it was small like the size of a car, short oil enamel, if it was a dozer or backhoe I would go medium oil because you could decal the next day. Long oil you can't, even though it's dry to the touch, it's not cured enough.

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^ GQQD explanation.

 

Great info, thanks.

 

Just want to add additional thanks for the information and the explanations of the various terms and compositions.

 

Thank you, great information. Your comment about bc/cc not being right for a pre 80's restoration leads me to ask...

If your wanting the proper "look" of an early to mid 60's paint job, say in Ford Caspian Blue or Pontiac Tiger Gold, what paint type would be best to obtain the look and feel of that era?

Thanks again,
-Dave

 

This can be very debatable so I am giving you people's opinions..... However Straight enamel and lacquer is what was originally on them, this would be the closest to a orginal look. Clear coat while it definitely has its benefits, has a deeper look. Some say it looks plastic etc or just doesn't match the same texture.
However if it's a metallic, I would use base clear. Clear has to be matched by texture as well, collision centers today struggle trying to create a texture because painters in nature want to slick one out, and newer vehicles are loaded with orange peel. Also the amount of clear can change the look as well. But on the flip side 99 percent of people can't tell the difference, some say lacquer looks better, some say clear looks better. I will sell you any type lol. Sometimes clear doesn't match a cars look, sometimes clear is just the way to go,but to go period correct try to get the same product that was available back then. I apologize I kind of bounced around the question, but it's one of those issues that turns into a debate.


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Thank you, I get what your saying. I'd never heard, or thought of the texture of clear, but I'm more mechanically inclined and am trying to learn as much as possible about body work and painting. Working at a new car lot I've seen lots of orange peel on new vehicles and thought that was due to what's under the clear.
Please keep the information come, as you can. Myself and many others look forward to your posts.
-Dave

 

I bought some tractor enamel at Tractor Supply to paint metal cabinets and some other equipment inside my shop. I also bought a small can of their hardener to go with it. So far I have only painted a cabinet with it and used a foam roller and it looks okay for what it is. If I wanted to spray that stuff, is there something that I can thin the paint with that I can get at the hardware or paint store vs buying the Tractor Supply brand?

Thanks
Dave

 

Probably xylene, acetone or vm and p naphtha. I would need to look at the sds sheet to be sure.

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I always thought that Enamels were equal, and thanks to you (Paint Guru), I learned the long and short of it

 

Thanks for the concise, well written explanation! Most paint discussions cause my brain to short out, kinda like electrical explanations.

Don't anybody do anything to piss this guy off! Some of us simpletons need it boiled down sometimes.

 

about thirty years ago a fellow wanted me to paint a daily for him. someone had given him a gallon of a fleet white. We used gasoline as thinner, didn't know any better and it didn't harden for almost a week and smelled like gas for a year.

 

Lol that's hilarious, you know the first time I painted basecoat, I used wax and grease remover as my reducer and all it did was turn to cottage cheese.

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Great Thread, thanks for taking the time to post this information! Very helpful.

 

This is one of the things we are focused on this year, is pre 1980 car colors. We have color chips from 1936 to date, and we are matching by eye. We want to do this because of all the people on auction sites destroying history by selling color charts page by page instead of keeping them together. While we won't make a new chip deck for a 1953 Desoto, I will match every chip they have that year.

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Are you good at paint matching?
Up for an impossible challange?
I've had 1/2 dozen guys try and then
Thru a friend I got this into the main lab at the local headquarters of a huge manufacturer. Took them almost a year and this is as close as they could get to a match. Supposedly they ordered special pigments and additives and there was a wait to get them. I was told they took it as a challange.

It matches pretty darn close in the shade but they missed the pop and vibrancy by far.





Here's the pisser- the fender tip was shot with the contence of a harvested rattle can, then cleared. It's cheap too. Billion dollar company can't get there with expensive and labor intensive tri coats.

Pm me your address and I'll send it to you if your up to it.

 

I can match 3 stage no problem, reds are my weaker color but my wife and niece are excellent at reds, only issue is the time and labor involved. If you are not in a huge hurry we can hit it.
That color is no where close. I can get you a blendable match.

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Looking for an address

 

Just out of curiosity, of the paint types you mentioned in the first post of this thread, which is the best for a beginner in a home garage? I would guess BC/CC is probably out because of the health hazards, but not sure which would be best.

 

The polyurethane we make is so user friendly, if it's not a metallic that's what I think is the easiest to spray. Just make sure you understand how to read a mixing cup.
If you screw up, it's not a issue to fix it after it's been cured. Poly looks like a million bucks and keeps a gloss for a long time.

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Are you wanting to know what's most forgiving because you can't pour 20 years of experience into the gun?

Or are you asking what's the product that's least likely to kill you or cause irreparable harm to your body because you don't know what your doing yet?

 

I'm mainly looking for the most forgiving option. When I say "health hazards," I'm more talking about after painting, while the paint is outgassing and curing. I have PPE to wear, and if my wife has to park the car outside for a couple of days while I'm actually painting that's fine, but I don't want to render the garage completely uninhabitable without protective gear for a week, if that makes sense.

 

Paint Guru,
Do you have a website or facebook page where we can find your products?
Glenn

 

Got anything to match (all of the codes I can find):

Ford: Beachwood Brown
Edsel: Alaskan Gold
Mercury: Javelin Bronze

Ford Code: M1230
Ditzler PPG: 21857
Dupont: 4082, 202-94133, 9181-94133
Acme Rogers: 8868

And can it be built with a flattening agent?

I am re-spraying the interior of my 1960 Falcon, and I actually like the flatness that the original finish has faded to. I have never been a fan of shiny finishes on interior metal. I would leave it, as-is, but I need to do some repair/modifications in a few areas.

 

Lots of good info in this thread, thanks for posting it. Man, there's a lot of confusing (mis)information about paints out there.

 

For right now you can go to www.minimix7.com

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Yea send me a pm, need a year so I can pull an actual color chip.

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