Register now to get rid of these ads!

Did anyone use a Cherokee rear together with a stock Mopar drivetrain?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Orn, Feb 16, 2014.

  1. Orn
    Joined: Jul 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,058

    Orn
    Member

    I need tips how to mate a Cherokee rear axle to a stock 1940 Plymouth. I want to keep the stock flathead and 3-speed tranny on my car but use a 3.55:1 Cherokee rear to get the rpm down. I already have the Jeep Dana 35 non C-clips axle and drive shaft. I guess I have to mate the Cherokee u-joint in the back to the stock Plymouth driveshaft. I will use a tri 4-link for suspension.
    Any advice on this?
     
  2. honeyman
    Joined: May 24, 2010
    Posts: 330

    honeyman
    Member
    from Steiner

    You might communicate with Joe McGinnis callent.beefalo@hotmail.com he makes up new driveshafts that eliminate the trunion style u-joints. Could be a source of information if nothing else. He advertises in The Plymouth Bulletin, put out by the Plymouth Owners Club here in the states.
     
  3. my daily is a grand cherokee with dana 35 and they have problems with warping brake rotors and pinion bearings. better inspect it carefully and they are considered junk in the jeep world.
     
  4. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,903

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The Grand Cherokee was the one with disc brakes. The regular Cherokee had drums.

    The Cherokee could have a Dana 35c, a Chrysler 8.25, or, rarely, a Dana 44, all drums.

    I have been building, driving and racing Jeeps for years. The 35c will work fine in a street application, especially with the non-c-clip axles.

    As far as I remember, it is at or very near the width of the stock axle. You should do well with it.

    Save for the few rare times that they ran out of stock and switched to a Spicer 1330 u-joint, that application has a Spicer 1310 u-joint on the pinion. You should be able to have a driveshaft shop put a 1310 yoke on your existing shaft, and shorten it, as appropriate, to fit, and then balance it.
     

  5. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,903

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I noticed that you are in Sweden. If that makes parts harder to find, what you need to get is called a tube yoke:

    http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/category/cat_driveshaftcomp_tubeyokes.html

    You can find them there, and order, and have a driveshaft shop there put it in.

    You should double check the u-joint dimensions before ordering.

    Dimensions:

    1310

    U-Joint Style (Inside or Outside snap ring) OSR
    Distance between retaining rings G1 3.219
    Cap Outside Diameter D1 1.062
    Distance between retaining rings G2 3.219
    Cap Outside Diameter D2 1.062
    OE Manufacturer SPICER
    OE Series 1310

    1330

    U-Joint Style (Inside or Outside snap ring) OSR
    Distance between retaining rings G1 3.625
    Cap Outside Diameter D1 1.062
    Distance between retaining rings G2 3.625
    Cap Outside Diameter D2 1.062
    OE Manufacturer SPICER
    OE Series 1330

    The difference is in the overall width of the joint, cap face-to-cap face.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2014
  6. Orn
    Joined: Jul 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,058

    Orn
    Member

    Thanks guys.
    Gimpyshotrod, that’s exactly what I need. Thanks!
     
  7. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 11,849

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL


    Perhaps you do have a Dana 35 in your GC, they were used in the first gen GC. But in my experience, it was the 2nd gen GC, which used an aluminum variation of the Dana 44 that had bearing problems AND the rotor issues you mention.

    I have operated several regular Cherokees over many miles, with Dana 35 and Chrysler 8.25 axles with no problems.
     
  8. ochamsrasor
    Joined: Aug 16, 2007
    Posts: 295

    ochamsrasor
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I would look at a ford ranger pickup rearend it is narrow and it has the same bolt pattern and parts are cheaper.
     
  9. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,903

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    He's in Sweden, and he already has the axle. The parts are not cheaper for either axle here in the US. Everything is +/- just a few dollars, either way. In Sweden, who knows? Better for him to work with what he already has.
     
  10. Orn
    Joined: Jul 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,058

    Orn
    Member

    Yes as gimpyshotrods writes, I already have the Cherokee rear and there’s plenty of them over here and as a bonus they are cheap too and the parts are not that bad either… and the width is just right for my 40.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. damagedduck
    Joined: Jun 16, 2011
    Posts: 2,342

    damagedduck
    Member
    from Greeley Co

    I just got a Cherokee rear for my Hudson, if you don't pound the shit out of it will be a good rear end! (my wife's daily driver is a Cherokee with 188K)
     
  12. bumpastoy
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 2

    bumpastoy

    What year Cherokee did it come out of ,I may need to use one in my 1954 Newport !
     
  13. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 11,849

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Some time in the early/mid '90s the Chrysler 8.25 rear end started in Cherokee production. Prior to that...'84 up to when the change was made, Cherokees used the Dana 35 routinely and in a few rare occasions, Dana 44. The 8.25 is plentiful and can be found with 3.07 (6 cyl w/ manual trans), 3.55 (6 cyl w/auto trans), 3.73 (4 cyl w/auto trans), 4.10 (4 cyl w/manual trans). These ratios apply whether the Cherokee is 2 WD or 4 WD, though 4x4 are by far the greater in number.
     
  14. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,903

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The 8.25 is a decent axle, that will handle a mild to moderate street engine just fine. Any non-Grand Jeep Cherokee from 1984 to 2001 is an eligible donor.
     
  15. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,538

    73RR
    Member

    IIRC, someone over at www.p15-d24.com had/has/made a part to connect the old driveshaft to a 'normal' u-joint. Might do a search there....

    .
     
  16. Orn
    Joined: Jul 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,058

    Orn
    Member

    I will, thanks!
     
  17. plym49
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,797

    plym49
    Member
    from Earth

    When I was a kid I swapped a 283 Chevy into a 50 Plymouth. Used a T-10 transmission and the stock Pymouth rear. I made a driveshaft with the Chevy ujoint on one end and the MoPar trunniun ujoint on the other. It worked. Eventually I switched to a Camaro rear, but for as long as I used it the bastard driveshaft worked fine.
     
  18. My friend Augie in Atlanta used a Comanche rear. The spring perches are on the bottom and fit his '48 Plymouth well.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.