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Technical Derusting panels

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by CadMad, Jun 22, 2022.

  1. CadMad
    Joined: Oct 20, 2012
    Posts: 871

    CadMad
    Member

    In the past I’ve used 90% grade phosphoric mixed with 6 to 7parts water. This works really well except a 20 litre drum has gone from $90 to $400. $1000 to fill a 1000 litre pod…. Too expensive for me now.
    I’ve also done the electrolysis method using a large steel plate and baking soda in solution and a battery charger.
    Keen to hear any other cost efficient immersion methods.
    I just spoke to the local produce store and can get molasses for $120 for a 100 litre which will make 1000 litres…. But I’ve heard it gets on the nose… I think this will be the direction I go for the moment.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2022
    Adriatic Machine likes this.
  2. Dedsoto
    Joined: Jan 7, 2014
    Posts: 261

    Dedsoto
    Member
    from Australia
    1. Aussie HAMBers

    powdered citric acid seems popular, and you can tip it out on the garden after, no personal experience with it but another avenue to look at
     
    raven likes this.
  3. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,160

    evintho
    Member

    bchctybob likes this.
  4. j hansen
    Joined: Dec 22, 2012
    Posts: 3,275

    j hansen
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I use the citric acid,,,,,this is from 24 hours soaking,if you want a better result, leave it in for longer time.

    IMG_8606.jpeg IMG_8608.jpeg
     

  5. Torana68
    Joined: Jan 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,360

    Torana68
    Member
    from Australia

    cirtric, does a great job . Molasses leaves a messy part to clean, citric just give it a wash with something to stop flash rusting and your done.
     
    Bob Lowry likes this.
  6. Molasses works, but stinks. Not straight away but it ferments. It is not a pure product.

    I use home brand vinegar, but not in 1000 l volumes. (pics of results in my sloper thread)
    No smell and you can play with it with bare hands.
     
  7. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 32,120

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    With the quantity of molasses that you have to have to clean large piece getting rid of it could be a real hassle if you don't live way out in the country were you can dump it down on the back 40.
    I've got pack of Citric acid but haven't tried it but have something that I want to clean so I might see if I can mix up a batch tomorrow and use an old tote I have.
     
  8. Citric Acid works great.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Bob Lowry, Tim, raven and 2 others like this.
  9. I too vote for citric acid. I haven’t soaked entire panels, but lots of little things. I had a early Corvette shifter that was frozen stiff with rust. Soaked it for a few days and after rinsing with water and a brush, it worked like new. Did not damage chrome at all. I just pour out in yard when finished.
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2022
  10. CadMad
    Joined: Oct 20, 2012
    Posts: 871

    CadMad
    Member

    Placed an order for a 25kg bag of citric acid yesterday. Will keep you posted on my results.
     
  11. chris bozic
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 34

    chris bozic
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Pittsburgh

    I have used the citric acid method on a number of parts and it worked really well. It was suggested to me by a fellow member 'two couped up'. One pound of citric acid powder per three gallons of water. Let the parts set for a day or two. I brushed the parts with a stiff bristle brush after a day and let them set for a second day. Then rinse with clean water and dry.
     
  12. scotts52
    Joined: Apr 7, 2008
    Posts: 2,546

    scotts52
    Member

    Citric acid or oxalic acid. Both affordable and neither smell nor are harmful to the environment
     
    Adriatic Machine likes this.
  13. error404
    Joined: Dec 11, 2012
    Posts: 369

    error404
    Member
    from CA

    I like citric acid as well. no need for gloves, and you can dump it down the drain.

    can also use it to strip zinc coatings from hardware.
     
    rod1 likes this.
  14. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 8,526

    Rickybop
    Member
    from Michigan

    Citric acid is the active ingredient in molasses. So, good you're doing that.
     
  15. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 4,861

    Fortunateson
    Member

    I love reverse electrolysis! Last summer I tried citric acid and wasn’t impressed. Now I think the concentration was too low so will try again this summer.

    The electrolysis is great when doing wheels. A day or two, rinse, prime, and paint: done!
     
  16. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 5,257

    indyjps
    Member

    When you full a large container. Use other containers full of water to offset the dead space and reduce the amount of chemical needed.

    I had a 60 gallon tank and a lot of gallon jugs of water with the lids glued on. Put part in, arrange the jugs to raise the level of the tank.

    I use phosphoric, citric, oxalic for different things, prefer oxalic for chrome, phosphoric for heavy rust.

    Soaking a towel in phosphoric, laying it in surface and keeping it wet works pretty well on large flat parts
     
    Tow Truck Tom and rod1 like this.
  17. Bob Lowry
    Joined: Jan 19, 2020
    Posts: 1,169

    Bob Lowry

    I was a solid skeptic before I read about citric acid here on the Hamb...used it last year to de-rust several sbc
    cranks in a 5 gal bucket. I wouldn't have believed it until I saw it with my own eyes. The cranks came out looking
    like brand new. Sold them for 5x what I was asking before the soaking. Bought smaller quantities of citric acid at
    Walmart in the canning section for around $4 jar. Still have plenty left over. Unbelievable stuff.
     
  18. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 4,861

    Fortunateson
    Member

    Well those testimonials are sure going to get me to try citric again.
     
    '28phonebooth likes this.
  19. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 6,708

    stanlow69
    Member

    Citric acid. Scan0488.jpg Scan0785.jpg
     
    vtx1800 likes this.
  20. Do it!! If you still don't like it, use it to clean your coffee maker...... no smell like you get from vinegar. Also takes those weird blue-ish stains out of your stainless steel cook wear. It's great for removing hard water stains too. (no I am NOT Helouise from 'Hints from Heloiuse')
     
    alanp561 likes this.
  21. Bob Lowry
    Joined: Jan 19, 2020
    Posts: 1,169

    Bob Lowry

    I used a 1:1 ratio with water, or maybe a little stronger. The more the merrier, and it is pretty cheap. Bob
     
  22. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 10,394

    Budget36
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Is that 1:1 a pound per gallon? I actually wound up with a about a pound to a gallon as was told I over mixed it.
     
  23. Bob Lowry
    Joined: Jan 19, 2020
    Posts: 1,169

    Bob Lowry

    The threads that I was following were using a cup to a gallon of water, which worked for me to start. I actually
    mixed it with about 1 1/2 cups of citric to a gallon of water. Seems like it depends on how much rust you're
    removing. But then again, if not strong enough, just let it soak longer. I only had to do my cranks overnight
    on one end, standing up in a 5 gal. bucket, then flipped them over the following day. Bob
     
    Budget36 likes this.
  24. error404
    Joined: Dec 11, 2012
    Posts: 369

    error404
    Member
    from CA

    yeah, I probably end up around 1-2 cups of citric acid per gallon of water. I don't really measure, it's not critical.
     
    indyjps and Bob Lowry like this.
  25. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 8,526

    Rickybop
    Member
    from Michigan

    One cup of citric acid per gallon of water?
    That's a LOT.
    That's 1/16 or 6.25%.
    I probably mix closer to 1%.
    Maybe less.
    A fresh warm solution helps performance.
    If it's bubbling, it's working.
     
  26. finn
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,071

    finn
    Member

    I have used powdered molasses diluted in water, and it works ok.

    Recently, I bought a bag of powdered citric acid from Amazon, and am now a believer..

    The molasses starts to smell as it ferments, and I am afraid of attracting rodents if I can’t cover the container. Citric acid is much more accommodating, and seems to work faster.
     
    Turbo26T likes this.
  27. I’ve never measured the amount of citric acid to water. I add rusty part and water to plastic tub and sprinkle in citric acid. I probably don’t add enough to work super fast, but I’m cheap and don’t want to waste it. I usually leave the parts soaking for a few days before checking on them.
     
  28. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 6,708

    stanlow69
    Member

    Scan0490.jpg I use 25 pounds in this tank. Then a couple years later, I add the other 25 pounds. I clean it out every 4 years or so. I have left parts in for as long as 10 minutes (cleans up dirty chrome) to 4 months. It freezes in the winter, so I wait for it to thaw. Some on the end of the cycle it takes a bit longer. IMG_20200712_0005.jpg Scan0489.jpg IMG_20200712_0004.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2022
  29. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 6,708

    stanlow69
    Member

    It cleans up old rubber too. Scan0492.jpg
     
    Surfcityrocker and Crafty like this.
  30. beater40
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 85

    beater40
    Member

    I've been using citric over 10 years, does a great job. Item needs clean of grease and oil and underseal. Will soften primer but not paint. Will clean rust under scratches. I use 3 x 25 kg bags for 1000 litres, lasts 3-4 years easily. Wash off with high pressure after to clean and neutralize it, then wipe a coat of phosphoric acid to stop flash rust and prevent surface rust later. The phosphoric wash will stay good for quite a long time and wipe again if any further light rust appears. If the tank isn't used often, it can go a little stagnant so I throw in a cup of bleach to help stop that.
     

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