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Hot Rods Dent advise

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by woodsnwater, Mar 21, 2019.

  1. woodsnwater
    Joined: Apr 4, 2016
    Posts: 241

    woodsnwater
    Member
    from North Al.

    216D65FD-3F95-44AB-ACFA-5EECE6E2880E.jpeg What is the best way to get this dent out. All I have is a cheap hammer and dolly set. I would normally attack it right down the middle but I’ve been reading some posts on here lately about working around the edges to get them out.
     
  2. Flathead Dave
    Joined: Mar 21, 2014
    Posts: 2,101

    Flathead Dave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from So. Cal.

    Put a crease in the other one.
     
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  3. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 8,947

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    The rule is to take the dent out in the same order it went in. In most cases that means start from the outside and work in. That dent is a nasty one, the crease makes it harder. I would start from the end near the label and work from the ends and around the sides.
     
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  4. woodsnwater
    Joined: Apr 4, 2016
    Posts: 241

    woodsnwater
    Member
    from North Al.

    Your right, some people are like slinkys.
     
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  5. woodsnwater
    Joined: Apr 4, 2016
    Posts: 241

    woodsnwater
    Member
    from North Al.

    I need a base like this one if anyone has one for sale. 682.jpg
     
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  6. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 4,118

    continentaljohn
    Member

    9432C1C0-4F5D-46DE-B94F-E6F37AE01BA7.jpeg 00E0DCC8-D7A0-45BB-B2F0-56BE9FB2A0F5.jpeg DABDB5A3-AA02-4544-8678-2344A0FD4F94.jpeg FEC11678-7A33-4E72-AB2A-86460341F2CA.jpeg 5E705619-8462-43F0-A086-4F5F2DA590F1.jpeg 8B63A56E-010C-4356-9BB2-0FEF7BABA103.jpeg I would push it out with the hammer and shrink it up with a shrinking disc. If you don’t have one I recommend getting one and they work fantastic. I had a bullet that was shot into the headlight bucket and was a odd 1/2 rise . I took the shrinking disc and would heat it up and cool a dozen times or so. I then took a metal file and it was fixed
     
  7. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,056

    oj
    Member

    If you have a belt sander you can clean up that disc but spinning it on top of the spinning belt, that'll get rid of those gouges. I use about an 80grit belt and it'll leave a clean, smooth finish on the disc.
     
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  8. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 4,118

    continentaljohn
    Member

    Great idea thanks

     
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  9. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 13,701

    alchemy
    Member

    Remove the tag and signal light, and start tapping the middle of the crease out with a rounded head hammer inside and a flat dolly on the outside. It is stretched, so when you get the crease out you will have "extra" metal there. Will probably require some shrinking, but since the housing is tough metal and has a lot of curve you might be able to tap the "extra" metal down or move it so it's not noticeable. And if you do need to shrink with a torch or disk you probably won't hurt it too much. It's hard to make an oil can on such a curved surface.
     
  10. Ask 5 guys and you'll get 5 different methods. Personally I'd use a spoon fastened to my work station and put the bucket over it. Now holding pressure down on the spoon work the shoulder outer edge inboard lifting the crease up as I go. I was never very good at swinging a hammer in a tight space like inside the bucket. When done a very light file will delete and high spot. The other real tin smith method is to use a Snarling Iron, way slick and easy. Google that and watch a few of the videos that come up. Personally I try not to just beat on a crease till it give up and lifts, they are generally at that time stretched way past where things started by the time you get them to what you think is close.
     
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  11. Oldioron
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 577

    Oldioron
    Member

    I have several dolly's that work for this, I clamp in a vice and then work the metal over them.
     
  12. Sounds like you can actually be called a Tin Smith, not just a Panel Beater. Excellent!!
     
  13. G-son
    Joined: Dec 19, 2012
    Posts: 508

    G-son
    Member
    from Sweden

    I'd go for hammer off dolly, moving around the edges slowly raising the metal back to the original height, and probably flatten the crease with hammer on dolly when you've gone all the way from the edge to the center.
     
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  14. Marcosmadness
    Joined: Dec 19, 2010
    Posts: 322

    Marcosmadness
    Member
    from California

    I would think you could get a good start by using a deep reach "C" clamp and a couple of pieces of hardwood. Put a piece of hardwood inside the bucket and another on the outside. Use the "C" clamp to squeeze the two pieces of hardwood together. Then use a dolly and hammer. Finish with a shrinking disc. Easy as pie since I sitting at my computer and not actually doing the work!
     
  15. Oldioron
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 577

    Oldioron
    Member

    They work great for making complex curves on small patch panels.
     
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  16. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,292

    patmanta
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Woburn, MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

    ^This is how I was taught. Additionally, if I wasn't 100% satisfied when I finished, I would tap at it with a hickory hammer handle against the dolly. I have used this method to smooth panels I've Mallet & Bagged.
     
  17. Something to remember here. This part is very easy to move around when out of shape. They are there strongest when undamaged. It don't take much impact to make a big move when out of shape.
     
  18. speedshifter
    Joined: Mar 3, 2008
    Posts: 115

    speedshifter
    Member

    Here is how I do brass motorcycle headlight shells. I pour molten lead (old wheel weights)In to the inside of the shell, into a undamaged area, & let it solidify. I then remove the 'inside dolly". Next I pour molten lead into a shallow container. I hold an undamaged section of the outside of the shell down into the molten lead & let it solidify. Now I have 2 perfectly shaped dollies. I can then tap the shell back into perfect shape Works great when shells are are to be chrome plated. Takes a lot of patience. Greg
     
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  19. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,146

    F&J
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    In my high school trades shops mid 60s, they had maybe a dozen factory made large T shaped things like that. They had a tapered square peg at the bottom that fit into the square hole on a huge anvil. Each side of each T was different curves and diameters, some rounded, tapered, some flat nosed. Likely made by Pexto?
     
  20. woodsnwater
    Joined: Apr 4, 2016
    Posts: 241

    woodsnwater
    Member
    from North Al.

    I guess I need to buy a shrinking disc. It's been hard to spend fifty bucks on something that looks like it should be ten.
     
  21. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,385

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.

    Idea;;Big "C" clamp,a cut from old tire as a pad{as pad for "C" to push from inside.,a 2x4 as something to clamp yo out side{ in that case I would shape/grind some pocket in 2x4 same as other light housing in same place. Too have place for metal to go. Do a number of times/a little at a time! Should get close an then be able work smooth !
     
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  22. woodsnwater
    Joined: Apr 4, 2016
    Posts: 241

    woodsnwater
    Member
    from North Al.

    I don't have a spoon but I do have a 2x4 and a vice. I'll try it, and if that doesn't work I'll try the C clamp ideas. Thanks guys.
     
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  23. 63 Avanti 3137
    Joined: Dec 23, 2010
    Posts: 160

    63 Avanti 3137
    Member

    Just needed to take a shallower dent out of the top of a tailgate with no access behind so I came up with this⤵️

    DSC00046.jpg DSC00047.jpg DSC00048.jpg DSC00046.jpg DSC00047.jpg DSC00050.jpg DSC00049.jpg
     
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  24. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 7,932

    belair
    Member

    and then some BONDO, baby!!!:p
     
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  25. Dyce
    Joined: Sep 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,761

    Dyce
    Member

    One more way to go about it would be using a c-clamp vice grip with pads and squeeze it flat. It would give you a good start without stretching it any more than it is. If you really want to get tricky grind the pads to the crown on the damaged area.
     
  26. 63 Avanti 3137
    Joined: Dec 23, 2010
    Posts: 160

    63 Avanti 3137
    Member

    True... but not as much as was in there before
     
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  27. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 17,150

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    easy. just smack it with your hammer until it is gone. that is what I would do.
     
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  28. G-son
    Joined: Dec 19, 2012
    Posts: 508

    G-son
    Member
    from Sweden

    You mean like this? Might want to think twice about that.
     
  29. woodsnwater
    Joined: Apr 4, 2016
    Posts: 241

    woodsnwater
    Member
    from North Al.

    That's just crazy!
     
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  30. That’s not a dent, that’s a crease. Trying to work in such a tight environment inside the shell is going to be tough because you can’t get any swing with the hammers.

    I would cut it out and weld a new piece in and then metal work it from there.

    You’d be light years ahead doing that verses tapping inside the shell all day and getting nowhere.
     
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