Technical DEglossing Paint....????

I have had my very shiny yellow paint for years and want a change but do not want to repaint...
I am thinking that "flat" yellow would look pretty cool on my coupe...
I have searched all over for how to degloss with no luck...
There HAS to be a way to do this...

Anybody know a GOOD way to do it...?
This is NOT a post for whether or not to do it but rather HOW can I do it
Thanx!

 

Don't do it. Put some hubcaps on it or something easy to change. If you can find a way to make it not shine it will look like a yellow car that needs a paint job. Still yellow.

 

This is NOT a post for whether or not to do it but rather HOW can I do it

 

Park it out in the sun for a decade or two.

Or wet sand it with fine sandpaper, something in the 600-1000 grit range.

When you tire of it, then you can wet sand it again with finer paper, and buff it back to a nice gloss.

 

LOL on your first comment!
I have considered your wet sanding idea...
I have no body work experience and was not sure what would happen long term tho...?
The idea is appealing to me because, as you said, it is reversible by buffing or maybe re-clearing...

I thought maybe there might be a matt clear but have not been able to find anything like that...

One reason I thought of this is because in my business (signs) we have wrapped cars in matt colors of many colors and the matt yellow does look awesome...kinda frosted... but because of the sharp, right angle curves of a coupe it would not look good wrapped...lots of edges to see...
Also IMO a vinyl wrap just isn't cool LOL

 

You could spray yellow base over the whole car...not sure how long that would last, but it would probably have the look you're after.

 

I am over the shiny street rod look...
I have removed a bunch of chrome and went to more of an old school look on the headers and wheels etc...

After owning the car for years and selling it I bought it back about two years ago and to be honest, I have washed it only three times since then because I like it better dirty than shiny! LOL

 

You can shoot clear over it with a flattener. Then when you tire of it wet sand it and clear it again. LOL

You don't buy clear in flat ( I don't think) you buy clear and a flattener and shoot it that way.

Actually it is not the sheen on your yellow car that makes it hard to look at ( opinion here) it is the actual color, they make a yellow that is not as bright. I had a yellow '64 Chevelle that I really liked, it didn't look like the other yellow '64 Chevelles out there and it was not a repaint. Found the build sheet under the seat and it was the optional yellow ( same as the Buick color for '64) LOL Hell I never would have known because who would have guessed that there was an optional yellow.

OK the other BS was no cost. Go back and read just the part about the clear.

 

LOL.....I like that idea....and I do agree about that yellow...that's another reason I want to "change" the look of that same yellow
FYI....a color change will not happen as the car was painted when built and is a great job as there is no real masking because it was painted before glass went in etc...looks "factory" if you know what I mean...

 

I like the mostly shiny hot rod look. Not too nice of a paint job...a few waves in the bodywork, some orange peel, chips, etc make it look like a real car, that gets used. I certainly appreciate the work and effort it takes to do a near perfect paint job on a car...I just don't really have much use for it. And looking at them gets boring after a while.

I'm not to keen on cars that have been painted or worked on in some way to make it look like it's something it's not. I'd rather start out making it look like what it is supposed to be. I expect a lot of folks have different views than I do, though.

 

I would avoid a repaint if it were me. I think that a little flattening will go a long way to make it easier to look at ( if the bright is not pleasing to your eye). The nice thing about flattened clear is that you have some control as to how flat you get it. You can go wood stove flat or just a mild satin. Depends on how much flattener you mix in the clear.

you and me both on that idea. I have been ruint since gawd knows when on drivers verses show cars. I still remember looking at a car in the Cow Palace when I was really little, it had stars in the paint on the fenders. I remember asking why the fenders had stars and the Ol' Man saying, "Well that means that this car gets driven." That was the day that I learned that there were cars that didn't get driven. What a concept.

 

There are some clears that come satin in finish, others you have to add a flattening agent to them. Scuff it down and clear it again with dull clear. Sanding it breaks your clear or base (if single stage or you sand too far) and lets the elements break into it more.

 

600 grit in one direction will give the look you want...I've done it before, and it looks good

 

Go get presta scuff paste and some gray scotch bright pads. From the paint supply house wet the pad dip it in the scuff paste and start going at it doesn't matter if you go in circles or straight line once done it will have the look your after it will be all flat when done right with no uneven spots plus if the car was cleared it will still hold up in the sun and not break down the base color base coat has little to no UV protection alone the clear has the UV protection before anyone starts I'm talking base clear systems not single stage

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Yes he is correct you can get satin clear already mixed

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My flatting agent on all-over jods is the old stand buy talcem powder works great just add to Clear

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Spraying a flat or satin clear guarantees a uniform degree of gloss/no gloss appearance.
Methods done by hand unequally dull the surface appearance.

 

If you spray it with satin, you’re going to have to sand the vehicle first. This is a lot of work. Try taking a hand cleaner with pumice, like fast orange, and rub it vigorously into a small area. Wash it off with water and see if this suits your needs. If not satisfied, wet sand with a 1500 to 2000. Sand steady and evenly and do a section at a time.


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I agree but...#3000 (3m trizac) can create a nice uniform semi gloss appearance but it will not reach into the tight places. Those areas will require some sort of scuff pad and now we have the un-uniformity.

 

3000 grit sand paper

 

You wrap vehicles? Just take some of your flat yellow and do below the belt line. No sharp edges. That might change it enough and not ruin anything if you don't like it. Personally I am like some of the others above, a car should be clean and kinda shiny, but not perfect. I have not gotten used to the flat color thing. I can handle primer cars, but a nice flat finish car take the same effort as a shiny car. Just my opinion, don't hate.

 

Flattened clear coat

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I sprayed with a Klearcote satin finish and it has to be applied very light coat or it will shine and you are back to sanding it down for a second shot. Not worth the aggravation. Knock it down with sandpaper. I'd be at 1500 grit. The lighter the better, you can always go with heavier grit later if required.

 

"I am over the shiny street rod look...

Shiny paint is not a street rod thing. Shiny paint is a hot rod thing as shown by these magazine covers from 1952 and 1959.

 

Put milk in a spray gun. It worked for Hollywood.

 

how did it hold up with time...? got any pix...? thanx!


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presta scuff paste huh...? anybody else ever use this stuff or this method...? I am pretty sure it is base coat clear coat...

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Rattle can it flat black, then you can look like the other million or so posers out there....

 

That's what we use on blend panels to even out everything as far as sand scratches it provides a smooth EVEN DULL FINSH FOR THE CLEAR AND COLOR TO STICK TO it will be even if these guys are getting shiny and dull spots then the ain't doing it good enough

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thanx for all of the ideas and speedy replies guys! Looks like I do have some options...

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