Definitive S-10 Frame Swap Vehicle List

Thanks for the help and support guys. I actually got a chassis manufacturer to respond with a dimension, so at least I have a place to start.
According to TCI engineering: "The measurement from the front axle centerline to the center of the front cab bracket hole is: 30.84 in"

 

This is a great idea - takes the guess work/eye ball factor out of it.

 

Yea, the guy told me in the email if I needed anymore dimensions just ask.

 

So your just gonna measure from the center dust cap back that distance?

I'd MUCH prefer a measurement from a chassis datum point as your wheels being turned slightly, your suspension being higher that ride height, the front suspension being slightly out of line etc...can have an effect on exactly where your body will mount. You can easily get it wrong because your relying on a movable suspension part to be in the exact location it is expected to be.
I don't trust them at all...and you won't see a chassis book offering frame alignment measurements off them either.

I ask you...How SIMPLE would it be for TCI to just come up with a repeatable and reliable measurement of a datum hole which can be considered golden and is the automotive industry standard of measurement?

"Oh...just measure back 30" from the center of the most movable part of your whole chassis/suspension...you'll nail it...no worries!"

Maybe you will...but it sure is amateur on their part!

 

LOL, no I'm not going to just measure back from the dust cap. Since I'm using this information to do a K5 swap, I'm going to find the center of the axle, mark the frame, measure the point, and go from there.

I'm not being a smart ass I'm curious; Isn't there a "standard" for where to mount the cab mount on the frame originally? I know there is a measurement from something to the mount that is repeatable each time. The reason I chose to ask about the center of the front "axle" is because the fender centers over the front wheel, no matter the frame, and makes that a repeatable point on the frame. Right?

 

Good to hear!
Sounds like you have more sense than TCI gives any of us credit for!!!

Yes there is a standard for where the cab mounts, but with an old cab on a different frame the standard becomes more of a visual/mechanical clearance thing than something that is carved in stone...until someone does it and it looks/works right.
From that cab/frame combo comes a new standard measurement.
TCI could have easily just measured from the factory measurement locations and come up with a standard dimension for their combo instead of going for the lazy way.

Thats STILL no good to you as your using a different frame again...so your back to the visual/mechanical clearance thing!

Your on the right track just using their measurement as a ball park figure.

All the best in the build.

 

got mine wired and started it up like a new truck today. Even took it to a customs meet at the local pizza shop. I am so happy I am busting.

 

I won't go in to specifics, because I'm not going to bash anyone. But it is my humble .02 worth the the people at E-Z Chassis swap are the people to deal with if you are going to get a kit.

I posed the same question to two companies, Ed @ E-Z emailed me a response, the other guy told me to fly a kite.

 

i cant belive the tractor grill post was shut down because it wasnt traditional enough for this site, but this one is still going?!?!?!

 

Not the same thing at all.
Tractor grilles or the like totally change the external appearence of the vehicle they get mounted to and would be considered a visual cosmetic detail that wasn't really in use during the HAMB focus era...while the later chassis swap, if done correctly, is invisible.
Plus it has the potential to put classic vehicles back on the road that would otherwise have been too rusted in the frame and underbody to make it practical.

In some parts of the country thats a real bonus as it opens up a huge supply of vehicles for rebuild that would otherwise be useful only as parts.
There have been thousands of cars even around my city that went to the crusher with excellent outer body but no floors or frame. Even the interiors and rubber parts were perfect as our sun isn't nearly as hot as it is in the middle states. A real shame that they couldn't be saved.

That happens in MANY areas of the eastern States and Canada as well.

We're not living in the 50's and have the ability to use our huge parts supply to resurrect these cars and trucks with a frame swap, so having a thread here that details the correct way to do it and also highlights the many pitfalls that might be encountered along the way, was an excellent idea!

I agree that using original IS the best way...but for some people and some deserving vehicles...it's just a pipe dream.

 

Well I finally got started on the frame mods and swap on my 47 Ford more door beater project. I took 3" outta the frame and chopped about 10" off the back and then the test fitting begins...and this is one of those cars that was on its way for scrap when I rescued it.I will probably put a fishplate on the top of the rails just to overdo it, however it is as strong or stronger than the how GM did it. Took two afternoons to do it.

 

Heres a couple of pics of the body dropped on the chassis...the trunk floor was pretty much non existent and will be completely replace to match the profile of the donor chassis, and of coarse I have to rework around the back seat area due to the frame kick up , which I havent done yet in these pics, so its sittin high in the rear. I am just happy to see it on the chassis, and get to do something besides fixing rust! Hopefully over the next few weekends I can get the body mounts fabricated and installed as well as the floor surgery. If anyone has any questions or would like some specific pics feel free to ask.

 

Koolkemp, have you decided how you will be mounting the Ford body to the Chevy truck frame? Conventional-type body mounts, or welded on ala the Hudson unit body?

-Dave

 

Conventional type mounts , I am gonna use the rubber rollers that you use on boat trailers a 6 inch piece is about $5 and you can cut them to length that you require and the hole is already in the center It will be a week or so before I start the mounts, I want to stitch up the floor under the back seat before I start on the mounts. I put the body where it needs to go did lotsa measuring then tacked a couple of pieces of scrap up near the cowl to the frame to keep it from moving.

 

Good post. If a late model frame swap is what it takes to keep a vehicle on the road I am all for it

 

You would be shocked at how many on this board don't feel the same.

This thread is AWESOME.

 

That's great! When I was looking to do a front suspension in my Opel, a lot of these companies wouldn't respond. The guy's at Welder Series were most helpful and very responsive. It's all about customer service.

Do you have the email info? I would like to contact them regarding that deminsion for my Studebaker truck. I'm getting ready to do my Stude on an S10 and that measurement could be helpful.

 

I like the way this looks. Some nice wide torque thrusts or slotted mags to fill in the space and you are set. Hell, just drive it as is...

 

kool kemp its looking good brother i havn't touched my ride in a while its too cold but im getting the itch so i might attack it this week <evil grin>

 

Get back on her Joel! Your build being done outside was sure inspiring to drag my ass outside to my cold shop lol. Its minus twenty something here today, no insulation in the shop(hung a few sheets of plastic up though) and a small salamander type heater...I will post some progress pics later!
</evil>

 

Looking good koolkemp.
I am sure you will be on the road this year to Moncton!!

 

Now THAT is the kinda shit I started this thread in the first place, for!!!!

Feel free to post as much hands-on, out there, "in the shit" pics of these frames, and projects in progress - the world needs to see 'em, and it helps a LOT of people!

~Jason

 

Heres a few more pics of last weekends progress trimmed away the rear floor/underseat area. The trunkfloor in the car was completely rotted away, as it sat for almost 30 yrs with no back window...anyways here you can see the downside of using a stock S10 chassis, the dreaded kick-up ! If this were a nice coupe body I would have back halved the chassis and did some kind of 4 link set-up but this is just gonna be a beater/driver and something for the wife to drive so the stock stuff will do fine.

 

Here I started to box in the floor to go around the chassis

 

Here it sits leveled and square on the chassis. I used the orig 47 half inch or so spacers that went betweem the floor and orig frame as spacers on the S10 chassis when I set the body on for some clearance , made sure everything was where I wanted it and used some scrap pieces to tack the body to the frame to keep it from moving.I wanted to get some strength back to the body before I build all the body mounts. I will lower it with a bit of chassis work, probably spindles springs and or blocks once I have it closer to final mock up. I will post a couple of pics of this weekends progress later today.

 

Got the floor all done around the chassis, not gonna do the trunk floor till I get a gas tank sorted out...probably gonna use a 55 Chevy pass car tank I have. Hopefully by the end of next weekend I will have some body mounts made and installed.

 

i think the 1-ton truck chassis also has straight rails from behind the cab. i have also thought about projects that can utilize these straight rails, such as a mid engine.

Please discuss more.

 

Cool swap Koolkemp!

now we have seen ad trucks and ford trucks what other swaps can we do....

what about a belair on a s10 chassis

 

Thanks bigtumtum, hows yours comin along?

 

i would like to see a nice old dually made with this chassis a nice all purpose 4 door hauler hopefully a future project for me