The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Dec 1, 2019.
Winduptoy- Wow that's different! (and cool!)
...Bluto would have known...
I was thinking the same thing about Bluto...sure miss the old boy and his vast wealth of knowledge
This just in- a friend of mine won this playing poker! Anyone
know what year?
Yep, miss Jim here too.
Wonder what happened to the HAL motor he had?
The car in my avatar was my dad's daily driver all through the second half of the 50's. It took him 4 miles to work every day. Thin oil, headbolt heater and a heat lamp on the pan. Really cold, colder than maybe -25 he would take the battery inside. Also he would throw a heavy quilt over the hood. His job was on a hill, so at work he would just throw the quilt over it and at quitting time he could use the slope of the hill to help the starter turn the engine along with a little snort of either. He said it usually worked. Of course, that was when we still had cold winters, before Al Gore got the planet all warmed up.
He was raised in small town in South Dakota. Many times I heard him tell about an old Swedish farmer who had a tired old Model T that would barely run in the summer. One really cold winter day it was 10 below and several guys were sitting around the barber shop telling the same old stories as the day before. The old Swede pulled up in front of the barber shop in his car and came inside. He was bundled up enough to look like a snowman. While he was taking off all his heavy clothes one of the guys asked him, "Wow Bert, how did you get that old car running in this weather?"
"Oh Yeesus, he said, "I cranked dat sunufabitch til da water boiled!" The guys about fell out of their chairs.
I don't know the answer to that one or any of his other stuff. He had class
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I picked up this 30 Coupe a few weeks ago. Stock rumble seat car with a few minor issues.
Drove the car a few miles today basically to learn how to drive it. My first impression is first gear is useless. Do you guys with the stock transmission use first gear? Also, when fueling, is there a trick to keep the gas flowing from the pump? I kept having to restart it or fuel at a very slow rate.
Very nice car.
Yes, first gear is very low. In general you may as well plan on shifting into second gear as soon as you get rolling. It's a different different feel or mindset than we may be used to.
Your fuel tank probably has the "spark arrester" (a perforated tube in the filler neck) that prevents a fast fill with modern gas pump nozzles. Some people have made or bought extensions that can be placed in the filler neck to keep the pump nozzle not so deep in the arrester. Others remove the arrester.
Enjoy the car.
Fuel pressure should be about 3 pounds
put the fuel in at an angle.... works here in the UK
PhredH answered my question regarding issues at the gas station. I also tried to pull the nozzle out a bit and different angles without success.
It may be a PIA, but don't remove that screen from a Model A tank! It functions in the same manner as the flame arrester screens on marine carburetors to minimize the possibility of a fire due to static electricity.
Hello All and Merry Christmas Eve,
Got great news this week. I have been on a list waiting for the new Stromberg 81 carbs. Just got my invoice and my 2 new carbs are on the way. Don’t waste time looking at my build link as still slow going. I am accumulating goodies. My posts a few months from now should be getting pretty cool.
T5 upgrade, FSI, Lowered springs, new manifold, dual header, my new 81’s and more! Can’t wait!
Wishing everyone a Happy, Healthy, Holiday Season and New Year
Good Morning, and Merry Christmas. I just need some expert reassurance. I'm putting a Brierley "C" grind camshaft in my early 1928 block. He suggests 1/8" spacers to raise the spring pressure, made out of 3/4" iron pipe. The new guides I ordered are about 1/4" shorter than the stock (?) guides I removed. With the spacers as pictured, I have 15/16" bury in the block. Is this going to be an issue? I know the early A's had a lot of differences, just want to make sure I don't need some kind of special guide. Mine were marketed as suitable for 1928-34. My feeling is that they will be fine, but I thought I'd check here, just in case. Thank you in advance.
I've been informed that the spacers need to go between the guides and the springs, rather than between the guides and block, like I did them. I'll make another set to fit over the bottom part.
My new shop calendar-May fits right in!
Merry Christmas you guys!
Christmas present to myself. A running model a chassis to power my 25 t roadster project! I have to wait till Jan 5th pick it up though.....wish I could get it now!
Merry Christmas to all you Hoodlums....the world wouldn't be the same without you
I like those wheels...Jeep maybe....no those were 6 lug
While the placement of those spacer rings will increase the spring compression height in either position, it is advisable to place them on the spring side. This allows for more guide support into the block, however marginal.
Make sure the valves are not in a bind once installed, I had a bad guide or two.
Also, are you using the V8 springs? Grey from Iskenderian?
Jeep wheels were 5 on 5.5. I ran a lot of them on my 52 F1 when I was in high school. Look like the jeep centers to me.
jeep wheels on the rear
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Thank you. I'm using new stock Model A springs, not sure of the manufacturer, I bought them from Mike's A-Fordable here in GA. The Brierley website specified the 1/8" spacers for stock springs, so that's what I went with. I do plan to come up with a way to test the springs and make sure that they are consistent. Hopefully the springs and guides will all work out, I didn't think to order any extras. I do know to keep the guides together as they were machined, and not scramble the halves up.
CONFUSING QUESTION : I have asked this before but still need ideas .
stock model "A" motor . rebuilt recently . after a back fire , compression : #1-4 … 75# #2-3 45#
pulled head & resurfaced , magna fluxed , all new ignition (stopped backfire) , set valves , tried different carb …………. no change in weird compression readings . any ideas appreciated … steve
2 years 4 months.countless days where you stand back and swear you didnt get anything done..then a day like today and you are energized...body drop..
Just a thought.. but how can a backfire cause a compression drop in 2 cylinders? even one?..my bet is the rings haven't fully seated.basically the backfire is not the root cause.Do a full 'wet' test first,if readings come up its ring seating issue.Or.if you can run it,do multiple full acceleration run in second gear,followed by full deceleration..this forces the rings to work under full load,both ways..repeat compression test.see if you recover some.
your at that itchy stage . you've done a lot ….
Its funny,you drive to get it done then once you do its a letdown.You long for those days alone in the shop,climbing that mountain..
*** the back fire was the beginning of the trouble , probably not related to the compression problem.
changed electrical & back fire is gone , but compression is still weird . did all the tests & oil doesn't really change problem . I have never seen this before . head surfaced with new gasket , etc …...
still weird ………. thanks .. steve
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