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Technical ***December 2016 Banger Meet - Dear Santa, A new C block***

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Nov 30, 2016.

  1. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,925

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    thanks john . slow build but fun as always . racing is a blood thing .
    question : does anyone have a diagram of assemble of a cragar OHV . ill probably figure it out but help would be great .
    I remember my first 4 cyl drag bike build . scared me that I would never get it back together , but we ran 7.90's so something worked ! I built two different brands & both fast .
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2016
  2. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,925

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    actually I think I will leave it where it is , dark but no one bothers you
     
    gas pumper likes this.
  3. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Tomorrow we go to see the "Feel good movie of the Season" :)

     
    Crazydaddyo likes this.
  4. With lawyers, those parts are readily (steadily) interchanged.
     
  5. steve hackel
    Joined: Mar 5, 2010
    Posts: 201

    steve hackel
    Member

    Merry Christmas to all......... OK, so it's not a typical Ford 4 banger, but I posted an Ansen cross flow head & engine in the for sale section - ya just never know!
     
    1-SHOT likes this.
  6. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,925

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    well apparently it is still in there .................. hmmmmmmmmmmmmm maybe its always been there !
     
  7. denis4x4
    Joined: Apr 23, 2005
    Posts: 3,351

    denis4x4
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Colorado

    Just got my ARP studs installed using a 3/16" hex wrench. Stainless steel acorn nuts eliminate the need for chrome nut cover. IMG_0050.JPG
     
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  8. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,925

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    cool stuff there
     
  9. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Chamfer the stud holes
     
    Old Dawg, ebtm3 and Crazydaddyo like this.
  10. colinsmithson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2013
    Posts: 383

    colinsmithson
    Member

    X2 it is a must do on these blocks
     
    Old Dawg likes this.
  11. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,925

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    they appear to be sealed
     
  12. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    When your using "unforgiving" studs that stretch less than originals there is a tendency to pull ups the block very slightly around the the holes.... that is where the blown/seeping head gasket start. I just do this operation automatically along with breaking most other sharp edges in any old engine I build. It's just one of those things like sealing the block and other castings that come in contact with oil. You get better windage, and no sand leaching from the surface of the castings as well as other crud and impurities. You can use all kinds of brush on paints. I have never had much luck with spray paint ...... after years I have settled on Rust-Oleum rusty metal primer. The dries slowly and seems to adhere better than insulating lacquer like Glyptal and is cheaper too.
     
  13. Great information there. Thank you!
     
  14. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,925

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    jimski I always like to paint insides with just what you said . helps drain back & dirt leaching out of cast iron .
     
  15. Wardog
    Joined: Jan 12, 2010
    Posts: 2,224

    Wardog
    Member

    IMG_2312.JPG IMG_2310.JPG IMG_2311.JPG I have a basically stock a banger I use shelsley medium oil in. It's a bit noisy when warm. Does any one have a reason I should not use and oil stabiliser additive to see if it helps or not?
     
  16. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Go to straight 30W and if it's still rattles rebuild it. Penrite makes good stuff but not really the best for hunt, spit, and hope oiling systems. IMHO
     
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  17. That's funny!!:D:D
    Thanks Bluto I needed a good laugh
     
  18. Or you could take it part and have the pistons knurled then pull the wrist pins and tap on their bosses in the piston maybe a set of 'ten up' rings adjust the valve lash a little tighter, if that don't work add some sawdust, keep working and you will eventually get rid of that rattle.
    Merry Christmas from the whiner on the recliner
     
    Dannerr likes this.
  19. Wardog
    Joined: Jan 12, 2010
    Posts: 2,224

    Wardog
    Member

    IMG_2314.JPG IMG_2313.JPG Thanks guys, if time and money permitted I would rebuild it but I'm just trying to drive it without causing any damage. It runs fine otherwise. I have used this stabiliser before in overhead valve v8's with good results, the question was more aimed at any one who may have used it in a banger and just double checking it won't attack the Babbitt or anything nasty like that. Buy the way here is my home made manifold and the down draft I am running.
     
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  20. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    If you suspect the motor is going away...... not much will fix that but you. It is always cheaper to attend to problems early and correctly ...... Listen closely to the motor. AND see if you can figure out what the problem is. I use a cut-down broomstick .... place it against various parts of the motor and next to your ear.

    Or just drive it till it grenades ..... I have never seen any repair self-heal.
     
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  21. Wardog, did you drop the pan and check the bearing clearance on rods and mains ? Then check clearance on valves. These A's are hard to kill !


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  22. blgitn
    Joined: Sep 13, 2011
    Posts: 104

    blgitn
    Member

    I'm with Bill; check the big ends.
     
  23. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,925

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    center main is usually first to go
     
  24. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    One time a kid working for me came walking in with a dead rat by the tail...... My response..... GET THAT F'N THING OUTTA HERE! and he says" I just want to know what killed it" I say "WHAT DO I LOOK LIKE THE RAT CORONER? GET IT OUTTA MY SHOP!!!

    Point is There is nothing in a can bottle or anything else that allows you to reverse damage! HONEST and you might just hurt it really bad by getting a few more minutes out of the motor. Sorry that's the truth. I have spare motors for almost all our stuff. Except the Ford A. BUT only because I just drive it and not hop it up. Honest when I want to go fast I drive one of our fast cars. The Ford is a good car within it's limits. It's wonderful to drive not easy to stop. AND that's how it is. No offense to you guys but you all know that. They wear out petty quickly it you hop them up and push them hard. Synthetic oils and even multi grade oil have no place in a babbit motor.
     
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  25. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,925

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    my motor is inserts but I use VR1 . drive it as a daily driver . works good for me .....

    jim , didn't know you had an A
     
  26. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Steve

    You remember this...

    DSC05930 copy.JPG DSC05920 copy.JPG DSC05926.JPG DSC05921 copy.JPG


    It's for sale
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 16, 2016
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  27. jerseyboy
    Joined: Jul 17, 2006
    Posts: 634

    jerseyboy
    Member

    I just love wooden wagons! Looks like a nice one Bluto!
     
  28. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    I love the 31 too, but we have so much STUFF. And here they don't like mechanical brakes much. AND I really refuse to modify them to juice To me it's much like driving a VW 36hp bus.
     
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  29. Wardog
    Joined: Jan 12, 2010
    Posts: 2,224

    Wardog
    Member

    Thanks for the reply's guys.

    This oil is supposed to be a multigrade version of a 40 weight.

    I recently took the sump off to clean the pan and under the baffle, I also removed and cleaned the oil pump screen. While I was at it I had a good look around and by hand I could not feel any movement in the big ends or mains although I didn't remove any caps or the side plate IMG_2114.JPG IMG_2210.JPG . I was pleasantly surprised to see how clean it was.

    Even more recently (about 200 miles ago) I replaced the head gasket and didn't see anything that was worrying.

    I have listened to the running engine after a drive with a large screwdriver, the sound is intermittent and dull but seems to be most noticeable up at the cylinders on the opposite side to the cam.

    I have spoken to local Model A restorers who assure me they're engines rattle and make noise and its ok.

    I'm not even sure if I should be worried in fact I was more worried when I saw the warning about silver bearings on the bottle which is what made me to ask the question in the first place, more to check I was not going to cause a problem.
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2016
  30. 2tall2beahotrodder
    Joined: Aug 3, 2003
    Posts: 1,808

    2tall2beahotrodder
    Member
    from Virginia

    IMG_2847.PNG IMG_2846.PNG Couple more for your viewing pleasure
     

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