Dec Banger meet.... Christmas on all four

Rod, I took a leaf out of your book as far as a stocker was concerned, and was impressed with all the bangers at Chopped, this year, even taking Thommo's 31 out to race, and thought that that would be the most cost-effective way of getting something on the road with the least amount of grief from the feds as possible.
life is too short to try for the absolute perfection in a hot rod that I wanted to acheive, and with all of life's responsibilities in the way, and my limited resources, I thought why not. Gone are the original 32 rails I had, and in is the fun into hot rodding I desire.

 

Question for those running a '35-6 water pump on a Model A. What are you using for a fan. The only examples I've been able to find have electric fans. I would like to stay away from that if I can.

Ron

 

The guys say they use Clevite 77 strip stock. The have a lot of stock thickness' ..... one service they offer is to plate the lead indium layer after you line bore the bearings in the block. You can get exactly the I.D. you need

I think they do bearings up to 6mm thick.

In my case this is a real plus because often I'm replacing thick babbit coated bronze shells. The new tri-metal steel backed shells are not only more stable than the bronze backed but may also transfer heat better.

 

28A; Hope this shows enough detail to help you, Pat

 

I am running later wheels on my AR drums, You have 2 options make spacers, I am doing this on the front as I now have A drums fitted, on the rear I machined the step off the centre so the later wheels sit flat you need to measure the hole in the centre of your later wheels, I think I machined it down to 86 mm, my wheels are off a 1966 F100. I like this option best as the studs are longer, I would have done it to the front as well if I still had the AR drums fitted. If you have some old steel drums they can be machined to make spacers, you need a bigish lathe however.
I have flated head ted floaters all round and new cast drums my mechanical brakes seem to work very well now.
Brendan

 

getting close to finishing my 28 roadster project with B model banger

 

Looking real Good!!!

 

That sure looks nice. Must be getting anxious being so close!
Question for ya regarding the fuel set-up. Does the fuel feed seem okay without an electric fuel pump?
I've got something similar I'm doing and was thinking I'd need a fuel pump.

 

What was this stuff made for?

from post 28

 

Do any of the bangeren recognize this carburetor from Texas T Parts?

There's a fellow on MTFCA running a pair on his speedster with what he claims are good results. I figure if that's good for a 170 cube flathead, it might also be good for my 170 cube '28 Chevy, but I'd like to know more about them first.

-Dave

 

That Ansen intake looks perfect!

-Pasi

 

Do any of the bangeren recognize this carburetor from Texas T Parts?

it looks like a bendix off an H.D. ................... steve

 

Yes it does

 

Don't sell yourself short there, Dave- you have 171 cubes

 

I was approximating.

Ever notice how few resources actually mention the displacement of a T motor?

Thanks for the ID steve norcal.

-Dave

 

Dave,

Don't forget that Gerber ran a pair of (Zenith, I think) carbs bolted directly onto his Olds 3 port head without issues!

 

Zenith side-draft? I wonder what those were intended for. Harleys of the era ran brass Linkerts, didn't they?

-Dave

 

Thanks for the ID steve norcal.

just a lucky guess ! ....................... steve

 

Looks JUST like the carb on my 10hp Cub Cadet Kohler engine.

 

You can use the method in this link to mount your box through the frame in the original position. the steering box must be rotated 90 deg. to right, fabricate flange to mount to frame, weld flange to steering box and mount to frame. You can trim the original mount brackets for better appearance.
Oil filler plug must also be relocated.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14238

 

I'm hoping to fire up my '31 Model A banger tomorrow. It just a rolling chassis no wiring what so ever yet. Could someone shoot me a real simple bare bones diagram with just the stuff I need to run the engine?

What I have so far; 6volt battery, starter going to neg post, pos going to ground somewhere on the engine block, distributor wire going to "timer" on 6volt coil (this coil is weird, one post is labeled battery, the other is labeled timer) So all I left out is a wire going from + on coil to - on battery? This should get it running, then unhook coil wire to kill the engine?

Thanks in advance

 

Here you go. Wire a model A engine for a test stand - The Ford Barn

 

Hey mate thanks for the link. Down here we aren't allowed to weld any steering components at all which is rather absurd IMO but that's the rules.

I've got the steering box mocked up in place but to have the center of the pitman arm parallel to the draglink (?) hole on the spindle it has to move forward about 2" but I've only got about 5mm before the column tube hits the firewall.

I could either cut and move the firewall section up an inch.. Or have the draglink end up not perfectly parallel. I'm not sure what to do here..

 

Worked perfectly. Motor runs great.
Thank you.

 

Hey BCCHOPlT,

I finally put the model A intake flanges you made for me to use...and thought I'd share a couple pictures. Its similar to the Winfield race car intake style and uses a barrel style Winfield carb. I'm getting it nickel plated and it will be fitted on a 26 touring car with a hopped up T motor. Thanks again for the flanges, they were excellent quality.

-Mike

 

Woha, that's wild. Is it going to result in an updraft carb way above the head? Or a downdraft carb below the head?

-Dave

 

Looks cool!!!! How long are the runners? Post pics when you get it on the car

 

Santa came early. Picked it up today.



.

 

Wow Dan - you must have been a really good boy this year

Neat ride

 

Lots of Tudors coming out of the wood work this year
Looks real nice. What is the plain?