Dec Banger meet.... Christmas on all four

Not sure if this will help. I got this from one of the banger meets when I was considering 81's. For two 81's use .041 or .042 jets. I also wrote down start with .035 main jet, use #71 power valve.

 

I made main caps to allow the use of Dodge Colt/Mitsubishi main insert bearings and pressure oil. This required line boring the block to the new Colt insert OD. Setting it up reveled that the main bearing bores were not parallel to the cam bearing bores. They made up for it when boring the poured bronze backed inserts I guess. By the time it was as straight as we could get it the crank c/l had moved .043 closer to the cam. Necessitating new gears to drive the cam and the aux. shaft.

 

Hopefully these should help.

 

I don't know what make this banger is but it's for sale.
Do you think it's good for any thing
I only found the block and crank
No head - rods and pistons

I didn't get a good look at some carbs that were sitting on the floor.
Any clue what they are

 

You better talk to Rich Fox!

 

Thanks for the quick reply. They explaim a lot, I plan on using a electric fan so that will mean I only have to move the water hose pipe. Again thanks.

 

1932 Plymouth PB. Last year of Plymouth 4 production. Steel backed flash babbitt main bearings. Full pressure oil to rods and mains. Bolt on counter weights. can be made to run 113.75 in a roadster or converted to OHV using a Y block Ford head and run 135 mph. Later Windsor and Cleveland heads will fit with billet cam. Carbs look like SUs off some tea bager.

 

Thanks Rich...
How much should I pay. The old guy died 16 years ago so I cant ask him where all the parts are. My buddy bought a 31 dodge from the lady.(6-banger) He needed my trailer so I got to pick throw the parts

 

For gots some pics
Looks like I will need a crank
That crank need six rods to work right

 

Well? did you get it?

 

Look at post # 49

 

The block by it self isn't worth much. Scrap price I would say.

 

Woops missed a page,

 

I Looking on e-bay it looks like the carbs are off a old Datsun

 

Pix of the Mallorys that I are surplus to my needs



C 11 serial 7001 all there. all kind of adjustments inside. condenser isn't Mallory
$150 plus shipping



No name plate so I don't know what model this one is. Vacuum retard. One set of points and condenser missing. Area of aluminum housing that goes into Ford head should be sleeved.Top cap cracked---$45 plus shipping.

Herb

 

Rich; They say a clean desk (in this case, "shop") is the sign of a sick mind. I would encourage you to seek out the very best help you can find and as soon as possible as you are the sickest gearhead I have every run accross !!!!! (LOL).

Wow... you sure do wonderful work in that very tidy shop Rich !!
All the very best of the season to you and all of the other Banger Pilots that are on the HAMB
Ron

 

these are "SU" carbs . maybe off a triumph or such ......... steve

 

[Wow... you sure do wonderful work in that very tidy shop Rich !!
All the very best of the season to you and all of the other Banger Pilots that are on the HAMB
Ron[/QUOTE]If you are talking to me, those pictures were taken after i sold the Plymouth to Speedy Bill. When the photos were taken the engines were at the Speedway Museum work shop. Mine is somewhat smaller and not so tidy.

 

I think I have a head for it if you get it. Can be yours next Hershey.

 

If you are talking to me, those pictures were taken after i sold the Plymouth to Speedy Bill. When the photos were taken the engines were at the Speedway Museum work shop. Mine is somewhat smaller and not so tidy.[/QUOTE]
Rich; I still stand behind my original diagnosis....
Ron

 

Im going to join the banger model A club at Chopped next year;-)

 

62pan, thanks for the reply. Now I have a starting piont. Did you end up running the 81's or did you go in another direction?

 

Building a dry lakes style roadster so went with a BB Winfield. Just fired the motor the other day so no comments yet.

 

We need pics....

 

BCC-Cliff Williamson in Temple City Ca. has most of the stuff to make an OHV Plymouth. Head, lifters, pushrods, side cover, Injection, headers, main caps (I think) but no crank, rods or pistons. I used Crower rods made to use 265 Chevy bearings, pins and standard 3 3/4 pistons. If you want to try to make some kind of deal with Cliff PM me for his phone #

 

Chassis is almost done, still need to decide on shocks. Motor is stock A with a B cam, Winfield 6-1 head and Winfield BB carb. Flywheel is lightened with V8 clutch and B trans has 40 gears. I used model B front mounts and 32 K member for rear mount. Brakes are mechanical, 32 up front and A for rear. Just now shifting to start work on the body.

 

Here are some pics of Rich's Dodge from the weekend of 12/10, 12/11.

 

You mention you are running '40 gears in the trans.. Is that a straight forward swap?

On another note guys.. i've got a lead on a '39 Merc gearbox for $150 big ones. Its a mint box from a driver car. I was planning on hanging onto it incase i decide i want something better than a model a box.

Is it hard to adapt a '39 box to a model a, or as above.. is it simple to swap the gears over? Possible even?

 

Rich-

Do/did you run a crank vibration dampener on your Plymouth and Dodge bangers?

If so, what kind? Realizing that you have had new cranks made, which are undoubtedly torsionally stiffer.

Herb

 

The 40 gears are a straight swap to a Model B trans. To hook that trans to an A motor you need the Model B flywheel housing and some sort of cover on the bottom side to cover the exposed flywheel. I used a cover off a Model B oil pan. You then need to figure on making rear motor or trans mounts, wishbone mount and clutch and brake pedal mounts.

If you adapt the 39 trans to the A motor you need to buy an adapter and with the adapter you can purchase the other mounts along with it.